OEM A-arms, also known as control arms, are designed to hold onto your hub, keep your camber relatively stable through your suspension’s full range of motion, and give your shock something to push against to give you a cushy ride.
That’s it.
They do the bare minimum to keep your side-by-side functional. At SuperATV, we take this basic part and make it do way more than the bare minimum.
If you bend your OEM A-arms, you better think twice before going back to the manufacturer for a replacement. Our A-arms are stronger, more reliable, and overall better quality. Plus, they’ve got a few features up their sleeves that can make your ride better than OEM ever could.
Here are six things our A-arms do better than stock:
As we’ve already mentioned, SuperATV A-Arms are stronger than OEM. We simply increase the diameter of the tubing we use (and sometimes the thickness of the tube walls) so that they can stand up to harsher riding conditions. Generally, the tubes in our control arms are 1/3″ larger in diameter than stock.
Our pivot blocks and ball joint housings are made from chromoly steel alloy. Chromoly steel is stronger than the plain carbon steel used in your OEM arms, and when we beef up these key areas, it makes a big difference in overall strength.
Some of our A-arms for select UTV models have the option for all chromoly steel construction. Chromoly steel is a special steel alloy that has increased chromium and molybdenum content to make it stronger than standard steel. It maximizes A-arm strength.
All of our A-arms are high clearance. That means the lower A-arms are bent a certain way to maximize their ground clearance. Normally, your lower control arms stretch in a straight line from the UTV’s frame to the wheel hub at an angle. That makes your A-arms lower than your skid plate.
Our high-clearance A-arms position the lower A-arm tubing as high as possible before bending down to your hub. They don’t change your camber or spring compression, and they don’t lift your machine. High-clearance A-arms just get out of the way.
When your A-arms don’t drag so close to the ground, you can ride over rockier, brushier, and generally rougher terrain, without banging anything up or getting hung up on stuff. It makes for a better, smoother ride.
If you’re worried that the shape of the high-clearance tubing will cause a reduction in strength, don’t. We’ve put all the strength tech we’ve got into these things, and we’re smart about how we make it high clearance. They’re tough.
Our adjustable pivot blocks are cool because they let you change the camber and caster of your UTV. Pivot blocks are what connect your A-arms to your frame. They’re what lets your suspension pivot up and down as you ride. The pivot blocks on your stock control arms are not adjustable, and that’s fine for stock riding. As soon as you add a small lift kit though, your camber will be messed up. With a lift, you’ll get too much positive camber which means the top of your tire leans out. This can lead to bad tire wear and worse handling.
Our A-arms let you adjust your camber and caster just by threading your pivot blocks further in or out of your A-arms. Add a lift and you can adjust them to get the steering feel you had before.
Even if you don’t get a lift, adjustable pivot blocks give you more control over your ride. Give yourself a little more negative camber—top of the wheels leaning toward the machine—to get more traction around turns. Tweak your caster and get the perfect steering responsiveness you want.
Still skeptical? Don’t worry—we send them preadjusted to factory specs so you don’t have to mess with them unless you want to.
With adjustable pivot blocks, the choice is yours.
Most of our control arms have the option for a forward offset. Our forward offset A-arms are a game changer. That’s because forward offset A-arms can give you a huge amount of room for bigger tires without lifting your machine.
They work by moving your hub 1.5” or 2” forward. Not up or down. This pushes your tire out from under your fender to give you more clearance. Why do you need more clearance? For starters, you can add larger tires. And it’s also just nice to not have to worry about scraping the underneath of your ride. You can also get rear offset A-arms for your rear suspension. Most of the time there’s already enough room for big tires in the rear so adding front offset arms is often enough.
Another benefit to offset A-arms is the longer wheelbase they achieve. With a longer wheelbase, you’ll have more stability when going up or down hills.
Most of our A-arms come with free UHMW bushings preinstalled. In case you weren’t aware, UHMW bushings can’t be beat. They’re the ultimate bushing material because they’re incredibly strong and feature very low wear. They’re also self-lubricating so they run smoother the longer you use them. It’s a pretty good deal.
Our most popular A-arms come with the option to purchase new ball joints at the same time you purchase your arms. If you choose to get new ball joints, we’ll press them into your new control arms for you. That’s free labor, and who doesn’t want that?
Between pressed-in ball joints and free installed bushings, you get one heck of a deal and it makes getting them installed easier.
We saved the best for last: the lifetime warranty.
Our lifetime warranty is pretty simple—you break it, we replace it. It doesn’t matter if it’s your first ride and a blown tire makes you roll over or if it’s 10 years from now and you smash into a tree. You break it, we replace it.
The best part about having a lifetime warranty backing you up is that you don’t have to be overly cautious with your parts. You can ride the way you want to, keep the pedal down, and enjoy every bounce and jump you hit. We’ve got you covered—just fill out our warranty form.
Between strength, clearance, offset, free stuff, and a lifetime warranty, there should be no reason for you to go back to stock. It’s time for an upgrade, and SuperATV has the A-arms you need. If for some reason you’re still considering OEM, we’ve got just one question for you: Why?
