Length: 7:48
Created: May 10, 2019
Note: If you’re gonna be using your factory wheels and tires, you’ll need to run an inch and a half wheel spacer in the rear.
Let’s begin the install by removing all of the wheels and tires. We’re going to jump right in and remove the tie rod from the knuckle by removing the cotter pin and the castle nut. You’re just going to pull the tie rod from the knuckle. Sometimes the tie rod gets stuck and you’ll need a hammer to hit the steering arm. Don’t hit the tie rod or the threads of your tie rod. Cut the zip tie off the boot on the tie rod. Pull the boot down off the rack. Remove the inner ball and socket. We’re going to use an adjustable wrench on these SuperATV Heavy-Duty Tie Rods today, but if you’re using a factory tie rod set, you’ll just want to use a big pair of channellocks.
01:25
We’ve got our tie rod and our inner ball and socket removed from the rack and pinion. Set them aside. Disconnect the shock from the upper shock mount. Flip it back out of the way and remove our upper A-arm hardware. Pick up on the A-arm so you can push the bolt out.
Disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder as well as the T-fitting located right here next to the differential. Once it’s removed, grab the provided brake line from the kit. Install it with the curved portion to the master cylinder and then the straight side going towards the T-fitting. Start by just getting it into the T down here. Get it started on the fitting, then get it started on the master cylinder. Once they’re both started, go ahead and fully tighten them. Remove the bolt from the T-fitting to accommodate the lift bracket.
03:09
Use the provided M10x60 millimeter bolt to attach the bracket. The bracket that angles towards the front is the driver’s side. The passenger’s side will be oriented the same. Slide it into place here, then take the provided long bolt and slide it through the lift bracket and the A-arm. Press down on the A-arm to line the shock up in the bracket. Use the factory hardware to attach the shock to the lift bracket. Start your nut on your factory shock bolt as well as the bolt that we installed attaching the bracket to the factory shock mount. Go through and fully tighten all the hardware for the upper A-arm, the shock, and the bracket.
Grab the provided steering stop kit, and slide it over the shaft of the rack and pinion just like this. Then, get your tie rod and apply some blue Loctite to your inner ball and socket threads. Reinstall your tie rod as well as the inner ball and socket. Grab the provided cap and put it on the upper A-arm bolt head. Then go through and make sure all of your hardware is fully tightened and then repeat the steps for the opposite side.
Now we’re going to remove our upper shock bolt and the rearmost upper A-arm bolt. Grab the driver’s side bracket. You’ll know it’s the driver’s side when it’s angled like this. It has an angle that goes away from this bracket here. Also, whenever you lay it up onto the machine on the inner portion of the A-arm, it should be sitting flush.
05:58
Grab the factory upper shock bolt and the M12x100 mm bolt and slide it through the bracket and A-arm. Grab the M12x70 mm bolt and this is what we’re going to use to attach the shock to the bracket. Pick the shock up, line the bracket up, and slide it through. Grab two M12 nuts and the factory nut with the upper shock bolt here. Then, go through fully tightening the hardware and repeat these steps for the opposite side.
All that’s left is to bleed your brakes and reinstall your wheels and tires. Remember: if you are using your factory wheels and tires in the rear, you’ll need to use 1.5 inch wheel spacers.
And that’s how super easy it is install SuperATV’s two inch lift kit on this Kawasaki Teryx 4. For more information on this lift kit or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and have a great day.
