Created: May 20, 2020
[0:00] First, we’ll remove the cover for the recessed lights on our winch-ready bumper. Just remove all four Allen-head screws.Then we’ll take our caps and set them aside.
Next, grab our cube light and our hardware that comes with the cube lights. We’re going to grab our gasket as well. Just slide the gasket into place and get the holes lined up.
Then we’re going to take our wires and feed them through the hole. I’m gonna get our cube light lined up. We’ll take the provided hardware and stick our screw through.
[0:52] Then on the back side, we’ll put a lock washer and then a nut. When you’re installing your screws, make sure you do the innermost screws first. Once you do that, go ahead and put your outer screws in. Then fully tighten the hardware.
[1:10] Next, remove your hood from the machine. Just twist the tabs, remove it, and set it aside for the time being. We’re gonna grab our wiring harness here.
Get our harness all stretched out and unwound. We’re gonna find this portion of the harness here, that has the rocker switch on it. Go ahead to this connection and unplug it. We’ll just set our rocker switch aside for the time being.
These two wires right here, you can connect them to a keyed-on power source, or you can connect them directly to your battery. This machine doesn’t really have a good spot to get a keyed-on power source from, so we’re just gonna attach this to the hot or the positive side of the battery, and this to the ground side. Then we’ll use a self-tapping screw to mount up our relay.
[2:08] Now we’re gonna go underneath the machine to the battery. Remove the screws out of the terminals. Take the ground on the black wire and connect it to the ground on the battery. Just reach right up underneath and pull the bolt out, just like this.
Once it’s on there, we’ll tighten that back up. Then repeat the same steps for the opposite side.
[2:49] Now that we have our wires connected to our battery, we’ll take our relay and mount it up as high as we possibly can on the firewall of the machine. If there’s a bolt up in here that you can reach, you can bolt it on there. The thing is, you just want it up as high as you can and you want the plug to be facing down. That way if water does get in, it drains straight out.
I’ve got a regular self-tapping screw here. You can pick one up from a local hardware store or get them pretty much anywhere. We’re gonna mount it up right here, like I said, as high as you can get it.
We’ll take our screw and stick it through, just like that. Get our impact and just run it in there. That way it’s out of the way and if water or anything does get in it, it’ll just run straight back out and there won’t be any issues.
[3:46] Now we’ll start routing our wires. On this specific install we have a lot of excess wiring, so there are a few different things you can do. You can route them to where they need to be. You can bundle them up nice and loose and loosely put a zip tie around them. That way you don’t really crimp down on the wires.
Or, if you’re pretty slick with wiring, you can go ahead and cut the harness down, put some connectors on it, heat shrink over top of it to make sure it’s water proof, make your connections, then you’re good to go.
[4:16] What we’ll do today is show you how we’re gonna do it. The first wire we’re going to grab is our rocker switch wire. This wire here is going to be the one that we recently disconnected the rocker switch harness from. We’ll route this up toward the inside of the machine, that way we can hook our rocker switch up.
Now we’ll get our wires all un-bundled and get them running nice and clean. We’ll just feed it up here to the top, then pull our excess through.
Now we’ll route our wires for our cube lights. The biggest thing when you’re routing any type of wire is to make sure it’s out of the way of any moving parts, anything that gets really hot, anything like that. Just keep it up. So if you’re mud riding or trail riding, you don’t want anything to get a hold of it and yank on it.
[5:07] We’ll take ours and route it right over top of this frame rail here, just to keep it up as high as we can. Then we’ll pull it through. This one’s gonna be routed over toward the driver’s side. We’ll just slide it right down into our bumper, run it over top of our winch, and all the way across to the opposite side.
Then we’ll tie up all of our wiring after we’ve made our connection.
For the passenger side, we’ll do the same thing. Route it over top of the frame rail, just like we did with the other plug. Feed it over there, that way it gets all these wires nice and clean looking. So when you walk up to the machine, you can’t even tell where the wiring’s at.
[5:59] On this side we’re gonna have quite a bit extra. Again, if you’re pretty slick with the wiring, you can trim it down. If not, you’ll just have to tie it up out of the way. Loosely zip tie it. As you can see, our connection is right here. Make sure it snaps.
These connectors do have a gasket in them, so it doesn’t allow for water or anything to get in. Sometimes it can be somewhat difficult to get it to snap, but I promise you they will. Wiggle it around, work it until it snaps just like that.
Here’s how much excess wire we’ve got. If you’re not gonna take the approach of cutting the wiring down, you’ll just want to make a couple of loops. Nothing super tight, so something about like that. Just make sure that you zip tie it first.
Put a zip tie around it nice and loose, then you can tuck it up under your front bumper, if you can get a zip tie up in there and tucked out of the way. Or up underneath the fender, behind the headlight panel. Anywhere what you’d like, there’s no right or wrong way, as long as it’s not in the way of a moving component or something that’s going to get extremely hot.
[7:23] Now repeat the steps for installing the cube light and getting your wires to it for the opposite side.
Now we’ll grab our harness that’s gonna power up our rocker switch. We’ll feed it right along the back side of the airbox. Run it as clean as you possibly can to hide the wires. Tuck it right back in there and then we’ll feed it right through this hole, below the fuse panel.
Feed the wires in there as far as you can get them. Once you have them fed in there, head to the inside.
Pop the center portion of the rocker switch panel out. You don’t need any tools. You can just stick your fingers behind it and it should just pull right off, just like that.
Now we’ll reach in here and find the rocker switch harness.
[8:41] We’ve already cut our hole for the rocker switch, so all we’ll do is take our harness and feed it through the hole. Then we’ll grab our rocker switch with the harness on it. Make the connection, just like that. Make sure it’s nice and tight. Pull all this wiring back through the hole in the dash.
You’ll want to line this up perfectly. Make sure it’s oriented correctly. Sometimes you may have to trim a little extra off to get a good fit.
We’ll bundle our wire up. You don’t want to bundle it up too tight at all—just a loose bundle like this. Now we’ll take the zip tie around and loosely tie it together. Tuck it down into the dash, out of the way.
[10:08] Now reinstall this panel. Make sure it snaps in all the way.
Now we’ll test the lights. It looks like the lights are working good. Make sure all your hardware is tight and all your connections are tied up and out of the way. Reinstall your hood.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Recessed Cube Lights on this Kawasaki Teryx’s winch-ready front bumper. For more information on these lights or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
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