Length: 22:19
Created: November 12, 2019
Hey everybody. Today I’m going to be showing you how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s 4″ GDP Portals on this Polaris RZR Turbo S.
The first thing that you’re going to want to do is remove your cotter pin from the castle nut. Then remove your castle nut. We’ve already removed the hardware for demonstration purposes. So we’ll go ahead and disconnect the brake caliper from the hub. Just like that. Then we’ll just lay our brake caliper over here to the side. We’ll grab ahold of our hub and slide it off.
Then we’re going to go over here to our tie rod and disconnect it. I like to put my hardware right back into place. We’re going to pick up on the lower A-arm after we’ve removed our nut off of our shock bolt. We’ll pick up on the A-arm, remove the shock bolt, and then we’re going to grab a strap. I wrapped it onto the front bumper to pick the A-arm up. Get it up about as high as I can get it. Then we’re going to remove our nuts off of our ball joint bolts. Then we’re just going to pick up on our lower A-arm here, remove the bolt, and remove the lower A-arm. Just let it hang down out of the way. Then we’re going to pick up, remove our other ball joint bolt, slide it out of the way, and then hold onto the axle.
You can do one of two things. You can remove the axle from the differential or you can take your tie rod and lay it over here like this, and just the let the axle kind of rest on top of it. The biggest thing is you don’t want the axle to hang down all the way because it can crease the boot. Once you crease the boot, it’s more prone to tear.
This machine’s already had GDP portals installed on it before, so we’ve already got our brake caliper swapped from side to side and we have our new brake lines on. At this point, what you’re going to want to do is disconnect your brake line from your A-arm and follow your line all the way up to your master cylinder.
Now, in this kit, we’re going to send two brake lines. We’re going to send a longer brake line for the passenger side and the shorter of the two lines is going to go on the driver’s side. Now, like I said, we already have ours switched so the only thing that you would need to do is disconnect your brake line from your A-arm, disconnect it from the master cylinder, and then route it just like you would your factory line. We just have to run an extended line for the GDP portals.
So, you have your lines switched. You have the correct line—you have the short line on the driver’s side, long line on the passenger’s side. You’ll take your caliper and remove the brake pads. So just push back on this plate here and just wiggle your pads right off. And then we’re going to remove this backing plate. Whenever you go to remove it, just pull it out a little bit and then pull your boots off. Then just remove like this.
Then we’re going to remove these brackets right here. It’ll be in your hardware kit. Go ahead and remove the bolts out of them.
Alright, so you’re going to have an end that has a bevel(?) on it that’s smaller. The smaller end is going to go into the brake caliper. You’ll want to put these in simultaneously. Start from the bottom and angle it in. We’re going to go ahead and grab our pad and put those up against the piston. It’ll be the first one that you took off. Then push our backetry back here. Then do the same thing for the other pad. Now our brake pads are installed.
So now we’re going to grab our backing plate. You want to make sure that this portion right here is facing toward the outside. This is where your steering arms are going to go on, so you want to make sure it’s facing toward your tie rod. So wiggle that on just like that.
Once we have our backing plate installed, we’re going to take our factory hardware and put it through the backing plate. Go ahead and get your nuts started on there. Then grab your steering arm. Now if you look on the back side, it’s going to say L—that’s left, which is driver’s side. So we automatically know that is the right steering arm. We’re going to grab our short M12 bolts and they’re going to bolt on just like this. We’ll go ahead and get the nuts started over on the other side just to make sure everything stays lined up when I go to put my portals on. I like to take this bolt and stick it in there. That way, whenever I tighten this up, it doesn’t cock it or anything like that to where it’s not going to line up properly. Then we’re going to fully tighten the hardware. It’s okay to use an impact on these bolts, but I always like to come back through with a ratchet to make sure I’ve got it fully tightened. That’s one thing with the portals—you want to make sure everything’s nice and tight, which those bolts are. This bolt goes in freely and the hole’s lined up perfectly so when I get our portal on there, I can put that bolt through without any issue.
Now, I’m going to take my axle and pull my backing plate out. I’m going to take my axle and slide it into place. That way, it holds itself. Then we’ll grab our lower A-arm too and get it slid into place. Line your ball joint up with the hole and your backing plate. Then you’ll take your factory bolt, slide it through, and get your nuts started on there. Now, you can go ahead and reinstall your shock or you can leave everything tied up. Whatever’s easiest for you.
This machine has a lot of downward travel and I prefer to be working up here, so I’m going to leave this thing tied up. That way, it’s easier for me personally to work on. You can go ahead and bolt your shock on or you can wait.
I’m going to go ahead and get our GDP portal at this point. I like to grab one of our recessed nuts as well, so whenever we slide this up on here, you can take your recessed nut and thread it on. Then take one of your long bolts and push it through and reach around to get your nuts started.
So on this top right position here, we’re going to have one of our flanged head bolts right here. On this one over here, we’re actually going to use a non-flanged head with a washer on the bolt. It’s going to just slide right through. Then go to the backside again and get the nuts started.
Once we’ve got these bolts started, we’re going to come over here and remove this bolt from the portal and then grab our caliper mounting plate. It’ll say PGH-CMP-025. We’re working on the driver’s side right now so it’ll go on just like this. Then we’re going to grab our long flanged bolt and put it through the hole, and start a nut on the backside. Then for the last hole, we’ll use another long M12 flanged bolt and get the nut started on the backside as well. On this bolt right here, it secures the steering arm as well as the portal to the backing plate. We’re going to use a non-flanged nut and it’ll go right here on these threads.
