Length: 29:34
Created: September 9, 2020
[0:00] Hey guys! Today we’re going to show you how to install SuperATV’s 4″ GDP Portal Gear Lift on this RZR PRO XP.
The first thing we’ll do is remove all four wheels and tires. Once we have our wheels and tires removed, we’ll remove our cotter pin from our castle nut as well as our tie rod end.
We’ll remove our castle nut, as well as our washer. Remove the brake caliper hardware and our brake scrapers. Grab the caliper and flip it out of the way. Grab the hub. We’ll remove our tie rod end from our steering arm here.
[0:54] I like to take my hardware and keep it together. We’re going to remove it from the factory knuckle and install it into the portal backing plate.
We’ll go ahead and start drilling rivets for our factory brake lines. Pick it up like that. It’s going to help us get everything out of the way.
We’ll take a 15 wrench and a 15 socket and disconnect our shock. Pick up and push down. We’ll grab this shock and just ratchet it, then tie it up out of the way.
[1:39] Now we’ll take our drill and drill this rivet right here. You want to drill this rivet right here as well. Once you get it close, a lot of times you can take a screwdriver or pry bar or something and just pop it off.
Then we’ll disconnect the knuckle from the upper arm. Your hardware is removed on the upper and lower. Just pull the bolt out and put the nut right back on it—that way we know they go together.
[2:19] Now we’ll take our strap loose and slide it down here onto our A-arm. Get it ready to go. First we’ll have to disconnect our sway bar link, then we’ll just rotate our sway bar link away. That way we can move our A-arm up and down.
Now that our hardware is out of our upper ball joint from our knuckle, let’s pick up a little bit. We just utilized the ratchet strap and that got it right out of the way for us, no problem.
We’ll just rotate our knuckle sideways. Get our axle and plunge it straight in, then straight out. Remove it.
Then we’ll grab our bolt and remove our knuckle.
You want to drill this brake line off the frame right here as well. That way nothing is making contact to the frame with this brake line. Then we’ll go to the opposite side and repeat the exact same steps.
[3:24] Moving on to the rear, we’re going to remove our cotter pin from our castle nut, just as we did in the front. Then our axle nut.
We’ll remove our brake line holder. Just take an 8 mm wrench and 3.5 mm Allen. Take the nuts off, then we can remove our brake line holder. We can go ahead and disconnect our radius arm hardware.
Then we’ll just pick up on our trailing arm and pull our radius arm hardware out. Just slide it right back through the radius arm, just like that. Remove both brake caliper bolts.
[4:11] We can just wiggle the hub until it comes off, then pick up and remove our upper radius arm. Set the hardware there.
Pull our trailing arm out and remove our axle. Then we’ll just plunge it straight in and pull it straight out.
Next we’ll go through and remove all the hardware out of our bearing carrier. Make sure you grab all your washers. Grab your bearing carrier and pull it off.
After that we’ll take our brake line and pop it out of the little clip on the frame. If you grab it and pull on it, it should come right out. Then we’re going to pull all the slack that we possibly can through our brake line here. We’re going to feed this line all the way down and get as much slack out of the line as we can.
This side is now prepped and ready for the portal gear lift. Now we’ll repeat the same exact steps for the opposite side.
[5:12] Now we have all of our factory knuckles and axles removed from our machine. It’s completely torn down and ready for us to install the portal gear lift.
We’re working on the passenger side today, so we’ll get our passenger side bracket. You can tell if it’s the passenger side by looking at it—your steering mount will be facing toward the rear, just like this. It’ll need to attach to the tie rod.
Take the backing plate and slide it down onto the lower ball joint. Take one of the OEM ball joint bolts and slide it through. Get the nut started it.
[5:50] We’ll grab our axle. When I install axles, I like to make sure the opening in my C-clip is facing down. It seems like it makes it go in just a little bit better. Once it’s in there, just pull on it a little bit to make sure it doesn’t want to pop out on you.
Pull it down and slide it into the backing plate, just like this. Now we’ll cut our upper strap loose. Pull it down and line it up. Once it’s lined up, we’ll get our OEM ball joint hardware and put our nut on it. I’m going to take my brake caliper and lay it out of the way. That way it’s not hanging.
Once have it just like this, we’re ready to install our steering arm. In your hardware kit, with all your portals and accessory box and everything, you’ll have a bunch of little plastic wrappings with part numbers on them. If you read this 11-SA, that’s the steering arm on the right side. We’re working on the passenger side, so that’ll be the right side.
[6:55] Grab two M12 bolts and slide the hardware through. Install it just like this. Slide it on there and put our nuts on. I won’t fully tighten anything until I take one of the bolts that’ll secure the portal gear lift to the backing plate.
Slide it through this hole right here. What that does is ensure that everything is going to stay completely lined up for us. Now we’ll fully tighten this hardware. Just make sure this is flush. It’s going to hold it in place as you tighten it. As you can see, our bolt still goes in and out easily.
[7:47] Next we’ll grab our steering stop and take our short M10 bolts. It will install just like this. Once they’re started, we’ll fully tighten those as well. If you’re running a SuperATV Heavy-Duty Tie Rod you’ll want to remove your tapered stud from your factory knuckle.
Then we’ll slide it right down onto the steering arm. Slide our tie rod on and put on the misalignment bushing. Get the nut started on top and on bottom. Make sure you install your washer. Then we’ll tighten it on top with a socket.
We’ll put a wrench on the bottom side. Once that’s fully tightened, get your cotter pins in. Slide them through and spin them away.
At this point, we’re ready to grab our portal gear lift. I like to get one of my recessed nuts ready to go. We’ll slide it up onto the splines and grab hold of the output shaft. Spin it a little bit—that way we know we’re lined up.
[9:18] Start this all the way in and down as far as you can get it. We’ll grab one bolt that looks like this, and it’ll slide through this top hole. Slide it through.
Next we’ll take one of our M12 nuts and start it on the back side. The rest of the bolts will look just like this.
Before we put this bolt in, we’ll install our caliper mounting plate. We’ll remove this bolt and install the caliper mounting plate just like this. Thread that bolt in and grab one of our long bolts. That’ll slide all the way through.
Put one of the M12 nuts on the back side, then fully tighten all the hardware.
[10:34] After that, we’ll remove our recessed nut and put some blue Loctite in the threads. Install this. Fully tighten it and then torque it to the manufacturer’s torque spec for whatever you’re running.
Next we’ll get our recessed nut, gasket, and small Allen-headed hardware. I like to put at least two screws in it. That way we know our gasket’s not going to move on us. Take it up to the portal gear lift and thread it on.
[11:10] Then we’ll fully tighten these. Be careful when you’re tightening these—they will break off. Just tighten them and give them a couple of bumps there.
Grab the brake caliper. We’ll have to switch sides with our calipers, but first we’ll push our adapter back and slide our brake pads off to avoid making a big mess with the brake fluid. Sometimes you’ll have to go to this side to loosen that screw.
It’s the same size as the recessed nut cap but you just want to loosen it up quite a bit. If it does come out, it’s not a huge deal. Then we’ll depress our factory adapter and slide our brake pads off.
Remove this factory adapter. We’ll just make sure we don’t pull our boots out when we do it.
[11:55] Let’s get it and just slide it down and out. Grab the new adapters that come with the kit. We’ll make sure we remove our hardware first—these can be a little tricky. You have to have the perfect angle to get them, but they do this right here.
Work them into place. Just slide them in equally on both sides. Make sure your boots go all the way on. We can put our brake pads back on—just snake them on, one side at a time.
[12:35] Now we’ll take our adjuster screw and reinstall it. Set these in there and hand tighten for now. We’ll have to go back through and readjust them later.
At this point, we’ll flip our calipers and install our new brake lines. What I like to do first to make sure we make the least amount of mess is take the brake lines loose from the master cylinder. Do one side at a time. We’ll take one side off, slide our new line on, and then hold that brake line up. That way it’s still attached to the caliper and we won’t lose a lot of brake fluid at this point.
Then we’ll bust it loose from the caliper when our lines are both in place, then attach them. That way we hopefully won’t lose all the fluid in our caliper. It just makes it easier to bleed it.
[13:23] Once we come over to the driver’s side, we’ll see the master cylinder. You’ll see a plug and you want to go ahead and disconnect that plug. Set it out of the way for the time being.
Then we’ll take our banjo loose. It’s not a bad idea, once you get close, to take a drain pan. That way when it starts to hit the floor, that drain pan is there to help catch it.
There we go—it’s disconnected now. As you can see, everything’s installed in order, so we have a washer first. We’ll take that washer and set it aside.
[14:00] Next we’ll take the brake line off. This will be our driver’s side line. Like I said, to keep it facing straight up, remove your washer.
Last, we have the passenger side line. Remove it and there will be a washer right here as well. There’s our banjo. For the time being we’ll take our calipers and brake lines. Keep our brake lines standing up. It doesn’t matter how you set it up.
Now we have two brake lines here. We’ll grab the long one first. Make sure you install the side that has the larger of the two bends on it to your banjo. Then we’ll grab a washer and slide it on.
Grab a side line and a washer and just thread this right back in to our master cylinder. Make sure both of your lines’ curvatures are going back toward the passenger side.
Then we’ll thread it right back into the master cylinder. Once we’ve ran it up by hand, we’ll grab a wrench and fully tighten it. As we fully tighten it, we want to make sure our lines don’t move around. Keep them straight up and down.
[15:36] We’ll go ahead and plug the plug back in. Take the longer line—obviously that’s going to be the passenger side. We’ll get our caliper set up and ready from the passenger side, just as we did a few moments ago with the driver’s side caliper, getting the brake caliper adapter on it.
Then we’ll switch calipers from the driver’s side to the passenger side. Now we’ll press our lug studs into the hub rotor assembly. We grabbed all the M12 x 1.5 studs and we’ll put them on the outermost holes. Line it up and press our studs in.
Now we have our studs pressed in. We’ll go back over to the machine and grab the rotor. Slide it on and push the adapter back on the OEM one. Put the brake pad off and hold the boots in place. Pull the factory adapter out because we’re on the passenger side.
[17:05] When the caliper is installed, we want to make sure our bleeder valve is to the top and that this hole and our adapter is facing down. So we’ll slide it in like this and just angle it. Wiggle it around a little bit and push on it. Grab hold of your boots and spin them around a little bit.
We’ll grab our brake pads. Wrap the other brake pad in and reinstall our pin. Again, we’ll have to make some final adjustments. Take our caliper and slide it on to the rotor.
I know our brake line hasn’t been changed yet—that’s perfectly alright. I like to get everything set up how it needs to be and then change the brake line. Then I like to get my hardware started into my brake caliper.
Grab our castle nut and start it. Torque this to at least the bare minimum of 300 ft. lbs. Usually any half-inch drive impact should be able to handle that. We’ll tighten it until the cotter is exposed.
Alright, so our cotter pin hole is exposed. We’ll take the cotter pin out of the way from itself. Install our brake caliper hardware and tighten it. I like to use a wrench—this is a 14 mm.
[18:29] Next we’re going to remove our brake line from our caliper. Grab our drain pan to catch any brake fluid that runs out. Then we’ll remove our washer from the banjo. Take the brake line and set it right down in our drain pan.
Then we’ll grab our new brake line and check it out a few different ways. See which way is going to be the best way for it to run.
Once we’ve figured out how we want to run it, let’s slide our banjo bolt on and then our washer. Install it and then we’ll tighten our brake line here. Get the brake line clips smashed together and make sure it’s good and started before moving on to the next one.
We can get another rivet right here and here to hold it on. Like I said, you can do this any way that you like. We may end up putting a zip tie on as well. There’s really no wrong way to install your brake line as long as it’s not in a bind or anything like that.
[19:50] We’re going to reinstall our shock and our ball joint hardware, and tighten this brake line hardware here. Like I said, for the rest of this line, we’ll probably use the factory rivets. You can do whatever you want to use.
The next thing we’ll do is on the rear. We’re on the passenger side so we’re going to grab our backing plate. We’ll take our bearing carrier that says the part number R because we’re working on the right side. We’ll find the plate that lines up perfectly. Take all of our Allen-headed hardware and slide it through. We’ll grab four of our M10 nuts and line them up with the holes in the trailing arm, just to hold everything in place.
[21:00] Go through and start your hardware. We’ll fully tighten all the hardware here. Then grab the axle and reinstall it. Make sure it’s fully seated. We’ll pull our trailing arm out and slide our axle right into the bearing carrier.
Next we’ll put a little bit of blue Loctite on the threads of the axle shaft. Take the portal and slide it on the splines. Get a recessed nut. I like to tighten it by hand to help hold the portal gear lift in place while you’re getting your hardware situated.
Next we’ll take our hardware and these bottom bolts will have nuts on them, so we’ll slide them through. Use this one to keep it lined up. We’ll have to remove both of these, though, to install our caliper adapter.
[23:03] We’ll go ahead and tighten the recessed nut up, just like we did in the front. Then we’ll grab our brake caliper and put the adapter on this one as well. Remove the set screw. Flip the pads out and grab the adapter. Make sure we pull our factory boots off before we pull it out.
Our factory boot popped off—not a huge deal. We’ll just have to make sure we reinstall it really quickly, before we move on.
Then we’ll grab a new adapter and slide it right into position. Push them all the way in. Spin the boots a little bit to get them seated. Take our brake pads and lay them back in. Then take our adjustment screw and drop it back down in the hole. Pull the brake line to the side and start it.
Grab a recessed nut cap, as well as one of our gaskets and three recessed nut screws. Let’s start one. Line the other one up. Again, like I said, be careful with these. You don’t want to break them off.
[24:43] When installing your hub rotor assembly, make sure the fins are facing forward. Ours are, so we’ll go ahead and slide it into position. We’ll take the castle nut and put it on there. Slide it on as well. We’ll grab the previously removed hardware and install it.
Once we have everything mocked up so far, we’ll grab our radius arms and slide them into the bearing carrier. Grab hold of the trailing arm and the portal. Lift up until we get them lined up. Do the same thing down here on the lower.
Start the nuts. Take the brake line and attach it. We’ll take the brake line clip out of the hardware kit and line it up with that hole. Thread it right in. Now we’ll fully tighten all the hardware.
[26:21] Once your castle nut is tightened to at least 300 ft. lbs., we’ll reinstall the cotter key and fully tighten our brake caliper hardware. Then we’ll grab our factory brake line holder and snap our brake line into it. Slide it into position.
The next thing we’ll do is install the drain plug. I like to get it to where it’s tight and then put another quarter turn on it, that way we know it’s not going anywhere. We don’t want it to back out on us.
You’ll do that for every portal before you run it. Also, in reality, you should fill your portals up before you install. It makes it a little bit easier. We wanted to take the opportunity to show you how you’ll have to fill your portals when you go through to maintenance them with the portal mounted up.
[27:23] We have a funnel here, shoved right into the fill hole. That’ll be directly besides the GDP. So we’ll go ahead and grab some Portal Blood Oil. You can pick this up at SuperATV.com. I highly recommend that you purchase some with your new GDP Portal Gear Lift. It’s 100% worth it.
There are so many benefits to having the Portal Blood over a standard gear oil. For the money, you can’t beat it. As we fill it, I like to grab hold of my lug studs here and just spin the portal. Really circulate that Portal Blood through the portal.
Now we’ll pull the hose out. As you can see, we’re absolutely full. Let it run out for just a second and then get the drain plug in there. Go ahead and get the fill plug tight.
Alright, so that portal is good to go. Now your best friend here is going to be Brakleen. I like to load it up with Brakleen, all over the box where any Portal Blood could be. Try to get it off—that way it doesn’t look like you have a leak.
[28:27] Now we’ll remove our brake line from the distribution block here on the driver’s side. The brake line we want to remove is the one that’s forward-most, so the one closest to the cab of the machine.
Once it’s removed, we’ll grab our brake line extension and thread it into the distribution block. Then couple it to the OEM brake line that’s still attached to the trailing arm.
Once we have our brake line extension attached to our distribution block, we’ll take the factory brake line and thread it right into the brake line extension.
After you’ve repeated all the steps for the opposite side—installed the portal gear lift, tightened the hardware, put gear oil or Portal Blood in each portal, and bled the brakes—maybe make some toe or camber adjustments.
[29:14] And that’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s GDP Portal Gear Lift on this Polaris RZR PRO XP! For more information on this portal gear lift or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
