Length: 25:24
Created: September 21, 2020
[0:00] What’s up guys? Are you looking to install a winch on your Polaris RZR? Well today we’ll show you how to do it while using our SuperATV 4500 Lb. Black Ops Winch and new body style RZR mount. Let’s get right to it!
You can do this installation without removing your front wheels and tires but we’re going to do it just for ease of access. It makes it easier to show you guys what we’re doing.
[0:32] Once we have both front wheels and tires removed, we’ll grab a strap and wrap it around the cage here. We’ll go ahead and disconnect our front shock and pick up on the rotor. Grab hold of the shock and pull it up. Just tie it out of the way. That’ll give us more room to get in here and work.
We’ll do the same thing for the opposite side.
Then we’ll come to this brake line right here. Get something to loosen this big nut because we just need to barely loosen it then tighten it right back up. All we’ll do is rotate our brake line. Once you’ve loosened it, roll both of your brake lines toward the back of the machine and then make sure you tighten it back up.
[1:41] Yours should look just like this.
Then we’ll get a pair of needle-nose pliers and remove the clamp off the vent line. You should be able to grab hold of this hose and wiggle it right off. There we go—ours came right off.
We’re going to tuck it up and out of the way.
[1:54] This is another thing I like to do to be safe. You know you’re not going to damage anything.
Now come to this clip and pop it open. Obviously you’re not going to hurt the brake line, but you can smash your diff plug. So we’ll come up to where the diff plugs in and pick up on the connector. Unplug it and then pull it right down through everything.
Once we have everything hooked back up with our new winch mount, we’ll just reroute this. We’ll let it hang down out of the way for now. That way we know it’s out of the way and it’s not going to get damaged. If you do damage this, your four-wheel drive is not going to work.
[2:25] Next we’ll grab all of our winch mount hardware, as well as our winch mount. We’ll go to the passenger side and install it. You just have to angle it a little bit and then we’ll drop it right down into place.
We’re going to utilize the factory holes down here, as well as the factory holes here. It should sit in here just like this.
I like to start all of my hardware before I tighten anything though, so we’ll come over here and line our hardware up with the factory square hole. We’ll take one of our Nyloc nuts and set it up there on the threads. Then pull the bolt back enough to where we can thread it right into that nut. It just makes it so much easier.
[3:07] I’ll run that up a little bit, that way we know it started. Then I’ll come up here to this front corner and continue putting the rest of the hardware in. It can be a little bit tricky to get in here and do this. Just feed your hardware from the back. Line it up with the frame hole.
After you wrestle it around just a little bit, you’ll get it to where it’ll line up with the hole in the frame. Come through and start your nut.
It’ll look just like that. Then we’ll continue installing our hardware for the rest of our holes. Then fully tighten all of the hardware.
[4:02] Once we’ve installed the winch mount, I like to go ahead and reinstall the vent line for the diff. Get it on and reach through to the bottom side. Put your clamp on and then you can slide this vent tube back over where it was.
Now it’s time to install our Black Ops Winch. When installing it, we’ll need somewhere to feed the winch rope through, so we’ll come here to the center panel. Again, this is the new body style RZR. We’re going down here on the bottom and there will be a couple of torques. You want to remove those really quick.
This panel will lift right up and come off. Then I like to grab the winch and click it into free spool. We’ll go ahead and freeze it. Pull out a good amount of winch rope. We’ll take our Black Ops Winch and get it up here into position. You can set it down on the A-arm if you’d like—it’s just gonna sit for a second.
[5:24] Take your rope and feed it right out this hole. We’re going to angle our winch in here. Pick up on our radiator hoses. Remember to pull out slack. You don’t want to break anything, but you definitely have to get a little bit rough.
The Black Ops Winch is in. I just want to line it up with the outermost holes. Because we’re running the bigger of the two winch styles, we want to make sure we’re not pinching the hoses.
Line our holes up and then we’ll get the hardware.
In your hardware kit you’ll have a bunch of bolts. We’ll grab these and lay a flat washer and a lock washer down. Do this for all four of them, then we’ll install them to the winch.
I like to install the hardware in an X pattern. Again, just find the hole in the bracket and line it up with the hole and the winch. Then we’ll just thread it right in. After that, start the rest of the hardware and fully tighten them.
[6:42] We’ll come over to these four factory bolts in the frame. Go ahead and remove them. Take the fairlead adapters from the kit and line up the holes. Use the factory hardware and fasten them to the machine. Take the fairlead and Allen-headed hardware and put it through the hole with a lock washer, a flat washer, and a nut on the back side. Then tighten it.
Grab the winch rope and feed it through the fairlead. Then repeat those steps for the opposite side.
[7:24] Once you’ve started your hardware and your fairlead, go ahead and tighten your factory hardware. Then you’ll want to get an Allen wrench and a 13 mm wrench and fully tighten your Allen-headed hardware.
Then we’ll grab our front cover—obviously we removed our factory one. We supply you with a new one in the kit. Slide your winch rope right through it. It’ll line up just like this.
Down here on the bottom, you’ll use your factory hardware that you just removed from the machine. Let that sit like that.
[8:12] Then, in the winch mount kit, you’ll get some hardware that looks like this. Go ahead and remove that from the kit as well. Remove your factory grille.
Once you’ve removed that, come right here and slide them through the hole in the frame. Take a washer and slide it into the back side. Then start your nut and fully put our hardware on. It’ll be a 10 and a 10 up here.
[8:48] Now we’ll reinstall our grille. Then come back up here and put our differential harness back in the clip. Route it right up through here. You can run it behind your brake line, up in between—that’s a very safe spot for it.
Then we’ll plug it back in.
As you can see, it’s good now. It’s not going to be pinched or anything like that. Now we’ll just make sure our hardware is fully tightened for our winch mount, winch mount cover, and fairlead cover.
[9:22] Now we’ll reinstall our shocks, wheels, and tires. Set the machine on the ground. Then we’ll remove the dash.
The next thing we’ll do once the machine is set down is remove the hood. Then we’ll grab our T40 torx and remove this screw here, as well as this one. Remove this screw right here and then one more on the opposite side. Then we’ll remove both of these push pins and remove our center storage compartment.
If you have Ride Command on your machine, you’ll have to remove the backing of it—just the mount. Then your dash will pop right out of there. Just slide it right out of the machine.
[10:10] The next thing we’ll do is mount our solenoid. One thing I like to do that makes it a little easier, although you don’t have to, is remove this storage box right here. There are two push pins inside here. I like to go ahead and remove these two T40s. That way this plastic flexes back just enough to get that compartment out.
Now we have some movement here. Grab this compartment and slide it right out. Now we can gain access to this portion of the plastic right here. There’s nothing that interferes with the solenoid mounting in that position.
It’s kind of hard to mark exactly where to drill your hole, but we’ll drill ours and then take some measurements to show where you need to drill yours.
We’ve already drilled one of our holes. Again, we’ll put some measurements up here for exactly where we drilled ours. We’ll line the hole back up and then go to the front side and make a mark.
[11:26] These holes do not have to be 100% perfect. You can drill a little bit of an oversized hole, which is what we’re going to do. By drilling an oversized hole, if it’s off by just a little bit, you can absolutely get it in there.
Now we’ll just take it and line it back up. Our holes are lined up good. Just so you guys have a better idea of where you need to make your holes and your marks. Now we’ll take a tape measure and go to this corner right here. Right before it rolls down there on the lip, measure approximately two and a quarter inches.
You’ll want that to be your center line. So then the easiest way to get a good measurement is to lay your solenoid down and measure from center line to center line. You can get about four and a half inches from center to center.
Once you’ve done that, you’ll be able to take a measurement from here down, which is about an inch and a half as well.
After you get this hole drilled, just measure straight across your four and a half inches, which is the length of the solenoid. Then you’re ready to install your solenoid.
[12:49] I’m going to mount mine with the screw coming up so you just have to get everything in here. Line your screw up with the hole and slide it through. You can kind of grab hold of the screw and pull up on it. This will not make contact with the dash, so there’s no need to worry about that.
We’ll do the exact same thing right here.
There we go—that’s through. Flat washer, lock washer, and then your nut. If you’d like to double check and make sure your dash is going to make contact, we could do that now. As you can see, that’ll lay down. Everything’s still lining up over here. You can actually slide your hand in here and feel the gap.
In your Black Ops Winch kit, you’ll have some yellow wire and blue, black, and red. Your red and black are your hot. These will go directly to the battery or on your bus bar to the far right post. Then your black, your ground, will go to your center lug, which is your ground wire.
This is your blue, which will go to blue on the solenoid and blue on the winch. Your yellow will go to yellow on the solenoid and yellow on the winch.
[14:14] What we can do now is start feeding these wires down toward the Black Ops Winch. We’re not completely wiring anything in just yet—we’re just running them. We’re going to drop them down in there, but we’re not trying to make them neat just yet.
Then we’ll go here to the grommet on the firewall. We’ll feed our wires through. Once we feed them through, we can grab them and pull straight up. Let them hang for a second. We’ll do this with all of our wires and make it nice and easy. Just continue feeding these wires through.
Feed the blue one through. Now we’ll take a red. This red, we know, is super excessive for this installation. For some installations you may need all this wire. But for this one specifically, you’re not going to.
What I’ll do is just mock it up to get a very rough idea of how much wire I need. I’ll cut it off about here—that way I don’t have to deal with so much wire. I’ll do the same thing for the black wire.
[15:30] Now we’ve ran all of our wires, but none of them are hooked up yet. You have a couple options on what you can do. Personally, I like attaching them to the solenoid first and getting them fully tightened.
On the solenoid we can see we have a yellow stud, a red stud, a black stud, and a blue stud.
Here’s the blue wire. We can go right here to the blue stud and remove the nut and lock washer. We’ll take this blue one and lay it on there. We’ll just loosely put them all on until we have them routed exactly how we want to. That way we don’t have any wires that are wanting to short off each other.
[16: 25] Now we have the yellow and blue connected, and we’re moving on to our black and red.
There you have it—we have all of our wires ran to the solenoid how they’re going to be. We can lay them in their nicely. We’ll probably end up throwing a zip tie around all of them and tucking them right here so when they come out, that’s all you’ll see. That way it’s nice and super clean.
We want to make sure we keep this right here at a point where we can get a hold of it. We won’t tighten anything yet on our machine other than these studs. Then we’ll have a hot and a ground wire. This hot wire and this ground wire need to go just like this. Your ground will go to the center post and your hot will run right over here, to the hot post.
[17:40] The next thing we’ll do is go through and remove all three of the nuts from all three studs on the bus bar. We’ll take our hot wire and lay it up here, where we need to connect it.
I’ll leave a little bit of slack and then cut off the excess. We’ll do the same thing with the ground wire—leave just a little bit of slack. Cut off the excess, and then we’ll go down here to our winch where it’ll need to connect. I like to run them right down the frame rail. We’ll run it over top of the brake line. This wire will connect just like this.
We’ll cut it off right here where my hand is, and then the blue wire is going to run down the frame like that. Cut it off right here. Any excess wiring, we can feed it back into the machine.
In the kit, we provide you with connectors, wiring covers, and heat shrink. Make sure you utilize the heat shrink on any connection that you make as well as use the covers on any spot where your connection may get dirty or covered in mud—specifically the winch.
[19:25] Once we’ve ran the wire, we’ll make sure to put a piece of heat shrink down. Then we’ll take one of our connectors and slide it all the way up. Make sure to twist the wire up good, and then we’ll crimp this onto the wire here. Slide the heat shrink up and then make all of our connections.
Now that we have all of our connections made and everything’s heat shrinked and looking nice, we’ll start making our connections.
[19:53] The red wire from the Black Ops Winch kit will go on the far right post. Then your ground will go on the center post. As we’re putting these wire on, I’ll go ahead and put the nuts on.
As you can tell, we’ll have a little bit of slack in our wiring. There’s some excess. Just tuck it in there as nicely as you can. We’re going to drop our yellow wire and blue wire down. We know our blue wire will go on our lower, or furthest forward, stud.
Take your two washers and reinstall one, then put your connection on, then put another washer on. Then install your nut. Do the same thing here for the yellow stud.
[21:04] We’ll go through and fully tighten our connections here, as well as our hot and our ground on our bus bar. Now we’ll just take our winch rocker switch and slide it through the cutout on the dash that we chose.
You can run it right through here, or down below. That’s totally up to you. I’m probably going to route mine down below. I feel like it’ll look a little cleaner. Then we’ll take our red wire and run it, just like we ran the rest of our wires. Go right through the grommet and the firewall, right up to our keyed-on source lug on our bus bar.
I’ll make this connection and fully tighten the nut. We’ll grab this portion and attach it to this plug that comes off the solenoid. It just slides together. Take this little nut and thread it down nice and easy.
Now all of our connections are made. We can go ahead and check our Black Ops Winch to make sure it’s functioning properly. We’ll pull all of our excess harness through and slide our winch rocker switch into the dash.
Then we can take all our excess wire and roll it up in a nice manner—something like this. We can just run a zip tie right around the dash or slide it back over here. Tuck it out of the way.
[22:59] Once we have all our wiring finished up, we’ll show you how to install your stop block. The stop block will go on your winch, just like this. That cut-out portion is facing toward the front of the machine. You’ll get your Allen-headed hardware and put a washer on one side, on the head side.
Slide it all the way through there, like that. Take your nut and reach into here. Once we have all four of them mocked up and together, you’ll take an Allen wrench and a 10 mm socket and just barely put this together. Don’t tighten it too tightly. If you do that, it’ll want to separate.
[22:37] Once that’s all tightened up, we’ll grab our clevis hook and pull the cotter pin out, as well as our retaining pin. We’ll slide our retaining pin back through, put it back in, and just bend it away from itself. Take your pull strap and slide it onto the hook.
One more thing we want to show you is the wireless remote that comes in the kit. Grab hold of this tab. Once you’ve removed your tab, turn on your wireless winch remote. Hold both buttons down. You’ll see the light turn red. That means it’s on.
If we reach in here and turn our key on, check this out. When you’re done with your wireless remote, all you’d have to do to shut it off is hold your two buttons down.
[24:27] Okay, it’s off. Throw it in your console, put it somewhere where it won’t get covered in mud or anything.
After all of your connections are made and everything’s tied up and looking great, you’ll want to reinstall any of your factory components that you removed. Your dash, your storage compartment, all of that—get everything buttoned back up. Double check everything.
And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Black Ops Winch and Winch Mount on this Polaris RZR. For more information on this Black Ops Winch or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
