Created: April 14, 2020
Hey everybody. Today I’m gonna be showing you how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Winch and Winch Mount on this Kawasaki KRX 1000. So let’s jump right in.
First, get in the box and grab the winch mount. It looks just like this. We’re going to install it to our machine. Come over to the driver’s side and slide the mount in. You have to angle it back by the front differential. Line up the tabs on the frame with the holes in the mount. Then grab the bolts in the kit: (2) M10 x 70; (2) M10 x 30; (2) M10 flat washers; and then we’ll start installing our hardware.
The M10 x 70s, our long bolts, are going to go down through these holes right here. Slide the two flat washers on the backside. Grab the M10 nuts and get them started. Do that on both sides on the bottom portion. Then slide the other M10 bolts and slide them through the mount and frame and start the nut on the backside. And then fully tighten all the hardware.
[02:27] Next, grab the fairlead adapter out of the winch mount kit and grab the fairlead out of the winch kit. Take the short allen-headed screws and flat washers provided with the winch and slide them into the fairlead. Line it up with the fairlead adapter. We’re only using the fairlead plate today. If you are installing a 3500 lb. winch or smaller, you’ll have to use the adapter in order to install it. Then fully tighten the hardware
Next, grab the winch. Pull out some rope and run it through the opening in the winch mount just like this. Then slide the winch into position. As you’re installing it you might have to rotate your winch around. Now it’s time to secure it using the four bolts provided in the winch kit. Today we’re installing a 4,500 lb. winch, so we’re going to line it up to the outside holes. Get them all started starting with the top one first. Hand tighten them as much as possible while moving the winch to make sure it self-centers. Once you’ve gone through all four, fully tighten all the hardware in an X pattern.
Grab the winch rope and fairlead plate and slide the rope all the way through. Then take the last four bolts in the hardware kit and get them started into the threaded inserts on the winch mount. Tighten all the hardware.
[05:38] Grab the stop block and the four allen-headed screws with washers and slide them through one side of the stop block. Then slide it onto the rope. Make sure the flat side of the stop block is facing the machine and the side that has the opening is going towards the end of the rope. Slide the other four washers and nuts onto the threads and fully tighten the hardware with a 4mm allen and a 10mm socket.
Grab the clevis and remove the cotter pin and pin. Slide the pin through the clevis and the rope and slide the cotter pin back through. Then just attach the pull strap on the hook.
Now it’s time to start some wiring.
[07:41] Now remove the driver’s side seat. Just reach down, pull the lever, and the seat cushion will pop right out. Then scoot the seat all the way forward or back so you can see the bolts securing it. Remove both bolts and scoot the seat all the way the other way to get the other two bolts. Now you can pull the seat out.
Remove these two covers and then the two bolts securing the battery hold-down. Remove the spacers as well. Loosen the terminal hardware and remove the terminals. Now take the battery out including the two vent lines and set it somewhere that’s not on the ground.
Now remove these screws and these push pins. Remove all the following push pins from the side panel and center console. Remove the seat cushion from the passenger side but don’t remove the seat. Now remove all of the following push pins and the panel. Back on the driver’s side, pull the center panel up just a bit, then pull the trim panel back just enough to get access into here.
[12:11] Next, grab the yellow and blue wires out of the kit. This is gonna go to your winch. As you can see, we have a piece of loom on our wiring here. It’s not necessary but we like to keep it clean by using wiring loom. Run this wire through this channel that we opened up. Under this bar, under the gas tank, up through this pocket, and below this bar. And start feeding them toward the front of the machine.
On the passenger’s side, reach through the panel and continue feeding them through. Feed them through the hole on the firewall. Then pull them all all the way out. I like to route them on the inside of the frame rail here.
Then take the blue wire and connect it to the blue stud and put the washer and nut back on. Then do the same for the yellow post with the yellow wire. Make sure you put the covers on the kit before you attach them.
Now pull all the slack back towards the rear of the machine. Then I like to pull my wiring loom towards the front of the machine as far as possible.
Reach into the access hole and next to the radiator hose you’ll feel a clip that’s big enough for a loomed wiring set. That’ll clip shut and keep your wiring off the prop shaft and you can use it even if you’re not using wiring loom.
[15:57] Next, grab the hot and ground wires. We’ve already cut these wires down to for this installation. The hot wire is around 30 inches and the ground wire is around 23 inches, but these are approximations you’ll need to measure and cut your own lengths.
Now connect the hot wire to the hot terminal without the battery. Hand tighten it so you can move it if you need to. Now put the ground wire between the washer and the nut on the ground battery terminal. Now we have to find out where we want to mount the solenoid.
Our busbar bar isn’t fully wired up, so we’re going to mount our solenoid right here under the seat. It’s very clean and out of the way, but we will have to drill some holes to mount it.
Before you attach it to your frame, make all your connections. It’s color-coded so just take your nut and washer of and attach the wire to the stud. Repeat this for all the connections. Start with blue, then yellow, then hot, and then ground. Keep the nuts loose for adjustments.
[21:46] Lay it down into place. Tuck your hot wire back behind where it’s going to go. It’s going to go down and around the battery, not over it. The ground wire lays up underneath here. And the rest of the wire just tuck down out of the way. Now fully tighten all of the studs. We do this all with the battery unhooked for safety. Then slide the solenoid into place and get your nuts started. Then fully tighten it.
Now we’re going to remove this panel from the dash. Do this by removing these two phillips-headed screws and these two pushpins. Then open up this compartment and remove these two puspins and these other two here. Now pull this panel off and put it out of the way. This exposes the busbar. On our busbar, the accessory power is wired up but nothing else.
For this one, we’re going to be using the winch accessory kit that you can purchase on the website. We’ve already cut the hole in our dash for the rocker switch. You can use any of the five available here. If you’re not using the winch rocker switch, you’d just mount your hardwired switch wherever you’d like it to be.
[24:23] But we’re going to feed this as well as the red wire through. I like to wrap the red wire around this so it stays with it as we feed it through the tunnel here. Pull it all the way through and pop the switch in.
Feed it down behind here like this and down through the hole and that access port that we removed. Then take the red wire from the kit, crimp an eyelet connector on it and a heat shrink connector on the other side. Put the eyelet connector on the accessory power on the busbar then connect the other end to the wire that’s going to be connected to the winch. Crimp it and shrink it with a heat gun.
Now take this wire and feed it back through the tunnel towards the solenoid. You should be able to reach through and grab back. Then go back on the driver’s side and make the connection. Route the wires under this bar, then come down to this connection on the solenoid. They go together like this, then thread the nut on there. You might have some excess wiring. Just loosely roll it together, put a zip tie on it, and tuck it up out of the way.
Now we’ll reinstall the panel on the passenger side. It has cutouts built into it that allow you to run your wires along it. Put the center panel panel back in place and pull the wiring tight so it lines up with the cutouts. Then reinstall the side panel. Now reinstall the pushpins in the center panel.
Now go through, reinstall your battery, connect the terminals to your battery, and make sure all your connections are tight. Then reinstall your trim panel, your seat, and all the rest of your components.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s winch and winch mount on the Kawasaki KRX 1000. For more information on our winch or winch mount, or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.