Length: 20:25
Created: December 1, 2020
[0:00] What’s up guys? Today we’re going to show you how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Cab Heater on a Ranger XP 1000, or non-XP.
The first thing we’re going to do is take everything out of the box. We’ll grab our heater and look in through this hole. Make sure all of our connections are good by reaching in and pushing down on all the connections.
[0:32] Once you’ve confirmed that your connections are tight, get this bracket that’s in the kit. With your heater sitting just like this, we’re going to slide the bracket through. Line your holes up and hold it in place. Grab one of your Phillips-headed screws and start it.
Do the same thing over here for the opposite side. It’ll look just like this.
Then we’ll flip it upside down and slide the defrost vent into the heater. Take the bracket that will secure it down. Put the screw in—again, we’re just starting the hardware right now, we’re not fully tightening anything.
[1:40] We’ll grab one of the lower brackets and start a screw. Take the other lower bracket and line it up. Then we’ll take one of our 6 mm bolts and slide it through the bracket, just like that.
Start the nut. We’ll do that for the opposite side over here as well. It should look just like this. Once all of our hardware is started, we can go through and fully tighten everything securing the heater to the bracket.
[2:34] For the next step, we’ll get the heater hose provided in the kit. Cut one piece of it 25 and 5/8 inches. Since it’s kind of hard to get this thing to lay flat, I’m going to mark my table on either end and then take a measurement to double check that we got it right.
I’ll mark this one at 25 5/8. Alright, for the next hose, it will need to be 19 and 11/16. Again, we’ll use our table and then line it up with our mark.
We’ll take our hose and cut it right here on the mark we made. Then we’ll go to the back of the heater. There will be a little plug right here. You might have to grab a pair of pliers to get it.
[3:33] Down here on the lower portion of the heater, take this hose and slide it up. We’ll grab one of the small clamps and run it all the way up. Grab a flat-head and tighten the clamp. When you’re tightening these, find the barb. Right here, you can feel it.
We want the clamp to sit right there behind the barb. That way we know we’ll be making a good, solid seal and you won’t have any leaks later on.
[4:13] Now we’ll get the longer hose. It will go right here on the upper barb. Again, get another small clamp. We’ll clamp this one down as well.
Now that both of our clamps are good and tight, it’s time to cut our vent hose. We’ll cut the hose right here, which is 30 and 5/16 inches.
We’ll use that same method. Get your tape measure and mark a spot, then measure out 30 and 5/16. You can stretch this all the way out but honestly, I prefer to leave it a little bunched up. That way we will have a little extra to work with—that makes it a little easier.
[5:22] Once we get to the spot we measured, you can cut it so far around. But since it’s all coiled, you’ll eventually have to get a pair of side cuts and clip the wire once it gets to this point.
Come right here and cut it off. We know this side isn’t the side we’re using. Go ahead and get rid of the excess.
[5:42] Now we’re moving inside the machine. Take the lower portion of our vent. It screws right apart. Lay it up here on top of the dash, in front of your cup holders. Put a dot right in the center of it, the best you possibly can. Take your hole saw and line it up right on that dot. There will be two layers in there. Just run through both of them, like that.
Then we’ll remove our center cup holder and the center portion of the dash. It’ll just be two push pins, nice and easy.
[6:36] As you can see, we popped a hole through this as well. But we’re good to go, we’ve got a good edge. Then we’ll come down, directly below this, and you’ll see a little storage area. You’ll have one, two, three push pins on this side, as well as this side in the same location.
Go through and remove all of these push pins. Make sure you get all of them and you can grab it and pull it out.
We won’t be reusing this, so we’ll just discard it.
[7:17] Locate the two half circle indentions on the firewall. Make a centered mark on the passenger side of the circle, like this, then measure up and make another mark.
Now that we have both lined up, we have both of our dots marked out and ready to go, we’ll take our inch and a quarter hole saw. This is included in the kit. Drill the lower hole first.
We’re going to make sure we have enough clearance for when we drill our second hole, so our holes don’t hit. So we’ll measure up and make sure we have at least an inch and a quarter from the top of the hole before we drill.
[7:59] While we’re down here, we’ll grab our grommets and install them into both of the holes that we just drilled. Do it just like that for both of them.
Now we’ll take our tape measure and lay it down in this groove, where we previously removed the compartment. Find the center point, which is around seven inches, and make a mark. We’ll have to notch this area out.
I’ll take a paint marker and show you guys where we’ll have to make a notch. The exact measurement is going to be three and a quarter, so an inch and 5/8 from the center on each side.
[8:46] We’ll be using a Dremel with a burr bit on it. We’ll start notching this up.
For this next step, we’ll take our heater and set it in here for a second. Make sure it’s going to fit. Make sure the groove that we just notched out is wide enough and in the correct location. It looks like we got it trimmed out good and that it will line up.
Now we’ll grab the harness provided in the kit. Once the hood is off the machine, I’ll run it up and underneath all of this. Slide it right through the hole in the firewall. You can reach through and grab hold of it, then start sliding it down toward the floor board.
[9:32] We’ll take the other end of the harness and come over to the pulse bar. Remove one of the pulse dummy plugs and plug it in there.
For the next step, we’ll grab our cup holder. Slide the vent down into the cup holder just like this. Take the lower portion and thread it all the way up.
Now it’s fully tightened. Make sure everything lines up good. We’ll take our hose and slide it onto the bottom. Just make sure you get it all the way on there, nice and secure.
[10:19] Once it’s all the way up there, we’ll take one of the provided zip ties. Get it nice and tight, then cut off the excess.
We’ll drop this back down through here, that way our hose runs all the way down to the bottom. Then we’ll be ready to start running our hose through the firewall.
Next, we’re going to grab our heater and slide it back out just a little bit. Let it sit there, then we’ll reach up with some sort of lubricant. We’ll run some WD-40 on these grommets. That way, our hoses go through nice and easy.
[11:10] We’ll take the top hose and run it through the top hole, then take the bottom hose and run it through the bottom hole. Before we slide our heater back into place, we’ll hook up the other hose.
Line this hose up on the defrost vent. I’m gonna make sure it slides down over the ridges, then we’ll take a zip tie and secure it. Make sure you get it super tight—that way you don’t have any leaks.
Once they’re zip tied nice and tight, cut the excess off. Then, you’ll see your hose clamps right here. I always like to go through and double check them one last time before installing everything. That looks good to me—everything is nice and tight.
[12:03] So we’ll get back down in here and grab the wiring harness. Run it over here, just like that. It’s nice and plugged in. Now we’re going to lift up and make sure both of our hoses are running through, then just feed everything in at the same time.
Come out here to the front and pull the hoses through.
When you reinstall your cup holders, you’ll notice you don’t have enough room in this center section of the dash. So we’ll take our Dremel and open this groove up right here. Lay it up here and then, as you can see, it fits together nicely.
[13:05] Slide your push pins back in, just like that. It’s good to go. We’re going to leave ours loose, just for the fact that we may need to tie up some wiring or something. It’s not really an issue to be able to slide this back on here or put our push pins in.
Alright, for this next step we’ll put our adapter and the heater in line with the factory hoses. We need to lay our hose out in a good spot. We have a barb here and we’re on the passenger side, so we want to at least be this far away from it.
[13:41] These hoses were pre-cut. We gave you a measurement, but that measurement we gave you was a little long. We did that on purpose—we don’t want anyone to cut a hose too short or anything like that.
I’m going to take the hose clamp that’s included in the kit. Clamp off this hose completely and then on the opposite side of it, I’ll take a pair of vice grips. Clamp this hose off.
That’s clamped off pretty good. Obviously, there’s still a little bit of coolant right here in the center. I’ll make a mark with my paint marker right in the center of where our hose needs to be cut.
[14:12] Take a razor knife and cut it open. We went ahead and put a drain pan underneath because we know it’s going to get messy.
Our coolant hose is cut now. What we need to do is get our large clamps and slide those onto the hose on both sides. Then we’ll take our hose and slide the adapter in. It should look something like this.
Next we’re going to trim our hose down just a little bit, to right there. Our hose isn’t kinked or anything, so that’s solid.
Then we’ll get one of the smaller clamps here. Since we already have the hose on the barb fitting there, we’ll just screw it together like that.
We ran it up there at the impact—that’s perfectly fine. If you do that, just make sure you come back through and fully tighten it with a screwdriver.
[15:50] Now we’ll go through and fully tighten all three of the clamps with the screwdriver. That way we know they’re good and tight. We have good, solid contact on all of them.
Now we can go ahead and release our hoses on this side. We’ll head over to the opposite side and do the same thing. Again, the first thing I’ll do is take my hose and slide my adapter into it. Find out where this is going to work.
Let’s go ahead and make a nice mark. That way we know that’s where we want to make our cut.
[16:34] Now we’ll do the same thing as last time. We’ll go ahead and clamp it off. That way we know we won’t have any coolant running through there, other than what’s stuck. We’ll go up way high and clamp it all the way closed. Then go down here and crimp the hose.
Alright, now we’ll make our first initial cut. Run that blade all the way around. We’ve already installed our barb, or our adapter, if that’s what you want to call it. I’ll drop my clamps on my hoses and slide it on the top, as well as the bottom.
[17:32] Slide those up there as far as you can. We’ll tighten the clamps up and, once they’re all tight, double check them with a screwdriver. Do that for all six of the clamps that we just installed.
You can never be too safe—you don’t want a coolant leak. These are all tight, so we’ll remove the coolant clamps.
Now we’ll come back inside and grab all four of our 8 mm bolts with the Nyloc nuts. They will be the only four bolts left that are all the same, and the only nuts left in your kit.
You’ll notice four mounting holes. Just shove your arm up and underneath the dash to start them. Once they’re all installed, fully tighten them.
[18:22] After all of your wiring is lined out and your hoses are tied up, and everything’s fully tightened, it’s time to bleed the coolant system. This can take some time—it can take three hours or it can take an hour, depending on how much luck you have. Sometimes it goes by fast, sometimes it does not.
We’ll take our blue hose clamps and come over to the driver’s side, to the inlet radiator hose. We’ll crimp that off completely. Then we’ll come to the radiator cap and fill the radiator completely with coolant.
Once it’s completely full, hop in the machine and rev it up to 3000 RPMs. Hold it there until the fan kicks on. When the fan kicks on, come out and remove the pliers.
Continue doing that, and after it’s heated up good enough, shut the machine down.
[19:21] Come out here and remove the cap. Continue that process over and over—take it for a nice drive, warm it up, bring it back, then take the cap off. Continue doing that.
If you’re still not having any luck bleeding the system, you can jack up the front of the machine. That way all the air in the coolant system comes to your cap. Let it heat up and then remove the cap with the front end up in the air.
A lot of times, if you continue doing that for awhile, it will finish bleeding. Again, it does take some time. We won’t show you two hours of us trying to bleed this machine. We’re just giving you a few tips and tricks on what you need to do.
[19:59] Once you’ve bled the coolant system and made sure there are no leaks, you’re ready to heat up the trails!
For more information on SuperATV’s Cab Heater or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
