Length: 6:41
Created: May 28, 2019
[0:00] The first thing we’re gonna do is remove the trim panels located below the shifter. I’m gonna grab this panel, pull it straight off, and just slide it out of the way. Set it aside, then do the exact same thing for the opposite side.
Then we’re gonna remove the two bolts securing the carrier bearing to the frame of the machine. There’s one bolt located here and then one bolt on the opposite side, in the same location.
Next, we’re going to be disconnecting the prop shaft from the front differential. We’re going to go ahead and remove the front passenger-side tire for ease of access.
[0:59] Remove the nut and then the bolt. Now we’re gonna slide the prop shaft off of the differential and start sliding it up toward the driver’s side, as far as we can get it.
Grab a hold of the prop shaft and pull it towards the driver’s side. There’s gonna be a snap ring up against the bearing on the front side of the prop shaft. Just take a pair of snap ring pliers, reach in here and expand it, then remove it.
Once we have the bearing removed from the prop shaft, we’ll clean the bearing surface. I’m gonna take a little Brakleen, spray it onto the rag, and wipe the bearing surface down. Get it as clean as you possibly can. It’s not even a bad idea to take a little bit of ScotchBrite and polish the surface a little bit. Make sure it’s good and clean, no debris.
[2:04] Next we’re going to grab our green retaining compound and apply it to the bearing surface on the prop shaft. Make sure there’s a good coat all the way around on the whole entire bearing surface here.
Then we’ll grab our carrier bearing. Remove the four Allen-headed screws, then remove the cap. We’re gonna pull the bearing out of here. Attach it to the prop shaft with the side with the set screws facing toward the rear of the machine.
Remove the set screws. We’re going to apply a little bit of Loctite to each of them and reinstall them all. Then we’ll go ahead and fully tighten each of them. You’ll want to get these snug down pretty tight, but be careful not to strip them out. The threads are super small.
Now go ahead and wipe off any excess Loctite you may have. We’ve got it all good and cleaned up. Make sure your bearing spins freely.
[3:08] Next, we’re gonna grab the lower portion of our carrier bearing and the provided hardware. We’re going to install the lower portion of the carrier bearing, making sure that the portion of it that’s machined out more is facing toward the front of the machine.
Now take each of your bolts and put your washers on them, like this. And on each of the bolts you’re gonna apply a good amount of Loctite. Then lay your carrier bearing into place to make sure the grease ring lines up with the lower portion of the bearing carrier.
[3:40] Then go ahead and install your bolts on each side, but you do not want to tighten them yet. Once we have our rear prop shaft in place and in the lower portion of the carrier, we’ll go ahead and find our factory green lines on our prop shafts.
There’s one here, and on the front, there’s one here. We want to make sure that these are perfectly lined up whenever we slide the front prop shaft on. Then we’re gonna reattach the front prop shaft to the pinion shaft on the differential.
Slide it right into place until the groove lines up. You want to head to the back of the machine and make sure the rear prop shaft has about this much gap between the prop shaft and the face of the transmission.
Once it has that amount of gap, we’ll head back into the machine. You’ll want to reinstall your bolt, then go ahead and fully tighten the hardware.
[4:32] Next we’ll take our provided locking collar and install it right here, to the rear prop shaft. You want to apply a little bit of Loctite. Just slide each side on individually. Get them to where they’re lined up and get one of your screws. Then go ahead and get it started.
One thing that’s really important when you do put this lock collar on: there’s a flat end of it and then a beveled end. Make sure that beveled end is going toward the prop shaft.
Once we have the screws started into the locking collar, we’re going to fully tighten them. Then we’ll tighten down the bolts that secure the lower portion of the bearing carrier to the frame of the machine.
[5:15] Once they’re tight, go ahead and torque them to 45 ft./lbs.
Next we’ll grab the top portion of our carrier bearing and apply Loctite. Once we have our Loctite applied to all four of our screws on the top portion of our carrier bearing, we’re gonna make sure the SuperATV is facing toward the front of the machine. Then we’re gonna slide this right on top.
Once you have all four of your screws started in the top of the carrier bearing, go ahead and fully tighten all four in an X pattern.
[5:47] Next we’ll grab our torque wrench and set it to 20 ft./lbs. Go through and torque each of the Allen-headed screws. Do the exact same thing for the opposite side.
Next we’ll take our grease fun and put four to five pumps of grease into our carrier bearing, making sure that it’s accepting the grease. If it’s not accepting the grease, you’ll have to pull the cap back off and make sure the grease ring is lined up with the bearing carrier.
[6:16] Now reinstall your trim panels. And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Carrier Bearing on a Can-Am Maverick X3.
For more information on this carrier bearing or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
