Length: 22:54
Created: May 27, 2021
What’s up, guys? Are you looking for better engagement and better belt life on your Polaris RZR Trail S 1000? SuperATV has you covered with our REV1 Clutch Kit, and today we’re going to show you how to get one installed.
[00:46] First, remove the belt cover. Loosen the clamp here and remove all of the clutch cover bolts.
Once you have all your hardware removed from the clutch cover, remove the cover from the machine. When doing this, you will have to pull it out sideways a little bit and rotate it up. Give it a few wiggles. Just have to find that sweet spot where it’ll clear the primary clutch.
[01:56] Remove both the primary as well as the secondary clutch and disconnect the belt.
In your factory tool kit, notice that you have this specialty wrench. On one side, it’s a shock wrench; on the opposite side, it’s the clutch tool. Take this clutch tool and slide it right here in either of these openings. Use the side with the little hook on it. Slide it in here like this, angle it, and then pry it.
If that’s too difficult for you or if you don’t have a factory shock tool or clutch tool in your tool kit, get a long pry bar. It works exactly the same. Slide it right in here and pry it down. That’s going to open the clutch up even further than what the factory tool can do (I prefer using the pry bar to be honest).
Once we have it opened up, the belt’s good and loose. Now, grab the belt and pull out on it and rotate it around the clutch.
Do not stick your fingers in either of these holes and don’t get them in between the sheaves. As soon as that belt is off of the clutch, it’s going to close back up. If your finger’s in there, it’s not going to be good.
I advise against reusing the belt you removed from the machine, especially if it has any kind of wear and tear.
This belt is not a perfect circle anymore. Its lost its form. Usually, whenever a belt does that, it’s got an issue. It may be hourglassed or it may be a worn-out old belt—but look around here, and if you see any wear at all, you might as well change it.
Sometimes the cogs get knocked off the belt. You’ll be able to see if you’ve slipped the belt. See if it’s gotten hot or if it’s glazed. If it’s glazed, that’s why it’s slipping.
Since we’re putting a clutch kit on, we’re going to upgrade to SuperATV’s World’s Best Belt today.
[04:19] Use a 15mm socket to remove the secondary clutch hardware. Then, we’ll use an 18mm socket on the primary clutch hardware, as well as a clutch puller tool, which you can purchase at SuperATV.com.
Once you’ve removed the hardware, give the clutch a good pull. It’ll slide right out no problem. Remove the bolt and grab the clutch puller.
Slide it right into the clutch and thread it all the way in until it bottoms out. When it bottoms out, do a half turn back and grab a 27mm socket on a half-inch drive impact. That’s what I’ve found works the best.
[05:24] Hammer this thing home. It’s going to pop that clutch off. Just hit it with that half-inch drive impact—popped it right off. Now with both the primary clutch and secondary clutch removed from the machine, we’re going to show you how to disassemble them.
[05:59] So, at this point, we’ve got the primary and the secondary clutch. We also have everything that we need out of the kit. But one of the most important things to this installation is having this clutch compressor tool. You can pick this up at SuperATV.com.
Start with the secondary. Grab it, line it up, slide it right down, and then grab this little piece. Just slide it right down. Notice that you have two nuts in the kit. One secures the stud, and then one is gonna hold tension here and also compress it.
[06:52] Once you’ve got the nut ran all the way down, grab the handle and slide it down. Line it up with the nut and put a little bit of tension on the helix. This component here is called the helix.
Remove all four of these T25s.
Once you have the nut tight, go ahead and remove the handle and remove all of the screws.
Whenever removing these T25 screws, I highly recommend that you use an impact, and you’re definitely going to want to use a T25 socket. Use something short like what we have. Put as much pressure down as you possibly can because it’s easy to strip these out.
[07:39] If you’re having issues, get a propane torch (something handheld) and gently heat around this screw.
Before you remove the helix, make a mark on it and on the back portion of the sheath. Take the handle and remove the nut, and then raise this helix up off of here.
Remove the nut from the all thread. Remove this portion of the compressor. Grab the helix, pick it straight up, and set it aside. Grab the rollers and move those to the side as well. Pick the spring up to the side.
[09:01] Once you’ve got everything removed from the secondary clutch, it’s a good time to do a little cleaning. I like to use brake clean because it dries quickly. You definitely never want to have any kind of liquid or oil (or anything of that nature) in the clutches. That’s gonna cause them to slip, make the belt slip, and cause all kinds of problems.
Wipe this down and get any kind of excess off. This machine’s pretty new, so it doesn’t have a lot of build-up, but if you have an older machine, it absolutely will.
Take a piece of red Scotch-Brite and lightly sand the sheathes here. There’s no right or wrong way—you want to get a good scuff on it, which is going to help the belt grab.
If there is any rubber or anything built up on the shoes, sand that off with the red Scotch-Brite. Ensure that you use red Scotch-Brite—you don’t want to use sandpaper or anything of that nature.
Grab the secondary purple spring and slide it right down inside the secondary into the groove.
Reinstall the rollers and take the helix and slide it back on. Grab the compressor and set it on the helix. Then, reinstall the nut. Grab the handle and compress the helix down to where the mark and holes line up.
Clean and reinstall the hardware. Apply blue Loctite to each of the screws before you reinstall them.
Once you start to get close, you’ll notice it’s a pain to keep all the holes lined up. Get two holes lined up first, put the hardware in, and continue tightening. Then start all the hardware and fully tighten.
[11:58] Once the secondary clutch is all buttoned up, it’s good to go. Remove it from the compressor. Get the primary and do the same exact thing. Slide it on, take the compressor tool just like you did on the secondary, run the nut down, and put some tension on it.
Put a couple of turns on the primary clutch to put some tension on it. Put some marks on your clutch if there aren’t any. If it lines up, the clutch is still balanced.
Take a 10mm socket and remove all the hardware. Remove all the tension off the spring by loosening the compressor.
[13:43] Next, remove the lid and set it aside. Remove the spring and install the new spring as well as the new arms.
Grab a 1/8” Allen as well as a 10mm socket and remove all of the clutch arms by removing the hardware. Put the Allen wrench here on this side. Then you can use a ratchet or impact—it doesn’t matter when removing the hardware.
Take the arm bolt, slide it out, and then reach up in here. Pull the arm straight out and then discard it. Put the clutch arms back in or put the clutch hardware back in the factory arms and set it aside if you need it again.
[14:30] Once you have the clutch arm bolts removed, take a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and sand out the holes. Roll it up about the same size as what the bolt would be, stick it in the hole, and run it in and out the best that you can.
Get the residue off of there. It doesn’t have to be perfect. That’s going to make this clutch function perfectly for a longer period of time. Do that for each of the holes and then take a little shot of brake clean and clean it out.
Do the same thing that you did with secondary. Get a piece of Scotch-Brite, lift the shoes apart, and sand them down really good. Get any of that residue off of there. There’s no right or wrong way. Make sure they’re clean and they’re roughed up a little bit. Only use red Scotch-Brite. Don’t use sandpaper or anything like that.
Once you’ve cleaned around the whole sheath, get your brake clean and a rag.
Wipe the clutch down and install the arms and springs.
[15:43] Take the clutch arms out of the kit, as well as the clutch arm bolts and nylock nuts.
On the clutch, you have two different locations. You can have a flat spot, which is where the head of the Allen-headed screw needs to go. Then the nut will go on the side that’s recessed.
Take the arm, and slide it back into the factory location. Take the hardware, slide it through, and get the nut started. Do the exact same thing for the rest of the arms.
[16:40] Tighten the clutch arm bolts. Utilize the same tools that you did on the factory hardware: the 1/8” Allen as well as the 10mm socket.
Use a ratchet when tightening the nut. Don’t use an impact. If it gets over-tightened, it can actually crush the casting, and then the arms aren’t going to move as they should.
Fully tighten the hardware. Now, there’s not a lot of movement side to side. That is not what you want. Tighten it all the way and don’t crank it down. Run it up to where the nut touches and then back it off about a quarter turn.
We have a little bit of side-to-side play. Make sure that the arm moves freely and that it’s not spinning the hardware whenever you’re moving the arm up and down.
[17:50] The reason that we leave a little bit of play here on the hardware is that if any dust builds up inside of the holes where the hardware is going through, it’ll work it out. That way, it won’t freeze the bolt or the arm up, so then the clutch won’t have any issues.
Take the primary spring and slide it right down where you removed the factory spring from, and then take the lid and slide it right down. Make sure that you line up the marks that you made.
Put the clutch compressor tool and the nut on. Then line up the holes and reinstall the factory hardware. Get all of them started before you tighten any of them. Tighten them in an X pattern. Get them all tight and then remove the compressor.
[19:47] Now that we have the clutch kit installed to both of the clutches, it’s time to get them reinstalled in the machine.
Grab the primary clutch first. Install this and torque it to 96 foot-pounds. Make sure it slides on the crankshaft. Take the bolt and slide it back in the clutch. Get it started, take an impact, and run the bolt all the way in before you torque it.
Do the same thing for the secondary. The secondary sometimes can be a little bit of a pain to get installed because it’s double splined. Get the secondary lined up and install the bolt. Before you install the bolt, put a little blue Loctite on it.
[20:59] Torque to 40 foot-pounds on the secondary clutch and 96-foot pounds on the primary clutch (the factory specs). Then install the SuperATV World’s Best Belt, which you can pick one up from SuperATV.com.
[21:14] When installing this belt, make sure that you can read the writing on it. Other than that, it doesn’t matter which direction you put it on.
Slide it on the primary clutch and get it started on the secondary clutch. I like to get it rotated as far as I can. Take the clutch tool and put it in here. Pry the clutch apart, and as we’re doing that, rotate it.
Just continue working that belt and spin it until the belt rides all the way up. Next, you’re gonna reinstall the clutch cover, the vent tube, and all the hardware.
[22:29] So that’s all there is to install SuperATV’s Rev1 Clutch Kit on this Polaris RZR Trail S 1000. To get your Rev1 Clutch Kit, head to our website. Drop a like, comment, and subscribe. Keep the rubber side down, and we’ll catch you next time.
