Created: October 27, 2020
[0:00] The first thing we’re gonna do is get our adjustment tube out of the box, as well as our gusset and tube weldment. We’ll take our adjustment tube and tube weldment and line it up just like this, so that the tabs are facing up. And obviously this is completely adjustable.
We’re gonna start out showing six holes, so two, four, and six. We have six holes shown here. We’re gonna grab the M10 hardware provided in the kit. Take two bolts and two nuts to attach the tube weldment.
One of the most crucial things about this installation is that you don’t want to fully tighten any of the hardware until we tell you to. So we’re going to run these nuts up here in just a minute.
The next thing we’re going to do is grab our gusset. If you look, you’ll see that the gusset has two different angles on it. You have a very steep angle on this side and a shorter angle on this side. We’re gonna take the gusset and set it just like this, so the long portion is facing up and away from the bend on the adjustment tube.
[1:39] We’re gonna grab our M10 bolt that’s provided in the hardware kit, as well as an M10 Nyloc. Again, we’re going to just start the hardware. We’ll run the nuts up a little bit to just hold it in place, but we want to leave it like this.
At this point, this is what your bracketry should look like. You’ve got your adjustment tube, your gusset, and your tube weldment. We’re going to repeat these steps for the other set, and then we’ll head on to the next step.
Next we’re going to join the roller assembly to the adjustment tubes on either side. When we’re doing this, we want to make sure the portion that has the roller on it is facing toward the tube weldment, or away from the curved portion of the adjustment tube.
[2:32] What we’re gonna do is, I’m going to set it on its side. This can be a little tricky—I like to just pop my bolts through. We’re using the same M10 hardware that we just previously used to couple the adjustment tubes to the tube weldment.
We’re going to put our bolts through and start our nuts on either side. Now it’ll stay in place, where it doesn’t want to move around as much. Once the other side is coupled on there, it’ll want to stay together. Again, we’re not fully tightening any of the hardware yet. We’re just going to start everything and run these bolts up.
[3:26] The next thing we’re gonna do is grab the bottom mount and install it to the adjustment tubes. We’re going to slide it in on each side to our adjustment tubes. We’ll run it up to the last hole, before it gets into the groove here. It’ll be just like this.
We’ll grab our M10 hardware. If we’re looking at this from the back side, from the side that has the gussets on it, it’ll be the right side that has the bolts in it. The left side is going to have the lock in it. What we need to do is put our bolts through.
[4:23] We’re going to take our lock and install it, just like this, to the bolts. Let’s go ahead and run our bolts on.
Next, we’ll install our adjustment tube assembly to the bed. We’ll lay our bed down, face down with the railing touching the ground. Then we’ll grab our whole assembly here. This may be heavy so you may need somebody to help you.
We’re going to install it just like this. It should slide right on there. Now we’ll grab all four of our mount brackets that look like a Y, and we’ll grab eight of our M10 bolts. I’m going to lay the brackets on like this. They’ll match up with the holes in the bed and essentially they’re going to clamp it together. Bolt them all through.
Then we’ll have a bolt go through here on the back side, but you may need to lift it up a little bit in order to get your bolt in. Just grab hold of it, pick up on it, and it should slide straight through.
[6:06] We’ll go through and put nuts on all of these and then do the exact same thing on the opposite side of the vehicle.
Now we’re going to grab the upright tube and slide it into the tube weldment. Grab two of the pins provided in the hardware kit. I’m going to slide them in there, just like that.
[6:50] Now we’ll grab our guides and the last M10 x 70 bolt and nut from the hardware kit, in that big pack that we used to assemble everything up to this point. Slide it through, just like that. Put the nut on. We’re going to grab our winch mount bracket and orient it just like this. We’ll take our winch rope and slide it through.
We have our 8 mm Allen hardware, provided in the kit. We’ll slide it through these holes back here. I like to get one nut on at a time. It can be kind of tight to get the nut in back here. I like to start on one side and just let it hang down like that. We’ll go over here to the opposite side, line it up, and start the nut on this side as well. You’ve just got to reach around through the bumper. It’s a little bit tricky to start it.
[8:01] Once it’s started, you can put your wrench in there and tighten it up with no problem.
We’ve started it. Now we’re going to grab our Allen wrench and our 13 mm wrench. I’m going to put the wrench down through here and get it on the nut. Fully tighten the hardware. The next thing we’re going to do is install our front bar to our mount plate.
We’re going to get our M10 x 30 mm hardware out of the hardware kit and take the two threaded holes. Line it up with the two center-most holes on the mount plate. Now we’re going to remove our lower bolts out of our bumpers. I’m going to set these aside—we will not be reusing them. We’re going to use the hardware that’s provided in the kit.
[9:26] We’re going to grab a bolt and nut and slide our front mount up into position. We’ll bolt it through the factory hole on both sides.
Once our bolts are started, we’re going to grab our M10 x 60 bolts, as well as the M10 Nyloc nuts. We’ll lift our mount up and utilize the factory holes in the bumper. Stick the bolt through and slide it into position, then start the nut on the back side, just like that. Do it the same way on the opposite side, just like that.
Then we’ll go ahead and tighten these bolts, as well as the two lower bolts we installed.
Now we’re ready to install the deer lift onto the machine. We have Landon here helping us today. We advise that you get somebody to help you—this deer lift is pretty heavy.
[10:57] We’re going to bend down here and pull in each of these tabs on the side. Lift the deer lift up on the mount. Once it’s aligned, we’re going to release the tabs and let it lock in just like this.
Now the deer lift is attached to our lower mount. We’re going to lift the whole lift up and at this time, we still have our hardware hand tightened. Nothing is fully tightened just yet, so as you can see, it’s not properly adjusted.
What we have to do now is get the lift away from the machine just a little bit. We’re going to loosen these two bolts and remove them. Pull the lift up—that way we can get the latch on this mount right here, as well as get the lift closer to the machine.
We’ll go ahead and lower it back down to the ground and make a couple adjustments. Then we’ll fully tighten our hardware.
[11:57] Now the deer lift is completely adjusted how we want it. We’ve pulled out a good amount of our winch rope—we just clicked it into free spool and pulled it out enough so that we can start running it down through the pulleys. We’re going to make sure it runs over top of this one right here, in the center. We’ll run it down underneath this roller right here.
When you’re doing this, make sure to pull all your slack through every time you go through any of the pulleys. We’ve got it through there. This bolt that we previously installed, we’re going to remove it on one side. We’ll pull it up tight and remove this pulley right here.
Go underneath and slide it back in position. Put the bolt back in for just a second. We’re going to pull our slack up to here and remove this pin. Wrap the rope around this one. Then we’ll reinstall the pin, just like this. Grab the slack and pull everything down tight. We’ll remove the bolt on this side again, and then we’re going to wrap it around the pulley going from the top to the bottom.
[13:38] Reinstall our bolt. Then we’ll come up here and grab our clevis hook. We’re going to need our pin from our clevis. put the in back in, as well as the cotter pin. Slide that cotter pin in there and bend it away. That way it can’t pull out.
Then we’ll come up here and clip it on. We’ll go ahead and lock our winch back in. Before we can winch it up, we need to come right here to this bracket that we installed. Make sure these bolts are loose enough to where this bracket will slide back and forth enough to lock it down. We’re going to take our pin and slide it in the farthest-most hole that we can. That way this bracket can’t go any farther forward.
[14:33] You’ll want to do this every time you let it down so that when you put it back into position where you’re going to be hauling your deer, it doesn’t get hung up.
Now we’ll raise the deer lift up. We’ve got it pulled in pretty tight. This will be the position that you’re going to have it when you’re on the trail coming back from getting your deer. You’ll take your pin out, let your bracket go down, and reinstall your pin. When you reinstall this pin, it doesn’t let it pull off. So even if you were to have an issue, the deer lift is not going to fall down. Essentially, that’s your safety catch.
Finally, we’re going to go through and make sure everything’s good and tight. And now you’re ready for hunting season!
And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Front Deer Lift and Rack on this Polaris Ranger XP 900. For more information on this deer lift or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
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