Length: 13:59
Created: February 18, 2020
Do you have an excessive amount of driveline noise or vibration, or is your carrier bearing just worn out? Well, SuperATV’s got you covered with our heavy-duty carrier bearing for various makes and models, and today we’re gonna be showing you how to get one installed on your Polaris General 1000. So let’s jump right in.
We’ve went ahead and flipped our machine over on its side. We’ve done this only for filming purposes—this entire install can be done from the ground. So once you have your machine ready to go, whether it’s on jack stands or however you’re gonna be doing it, you’re gonna want to go ahead and remove the center section of your skid plate if you’re using a SuperATV skid plate. If utilizing a factory skid plate still, you’ll have to remove the entire skid plate.
So now that we have our carrier bearing and prop shaft exposed, we’re gonna look right here on the frame. We’re gonna see two nuts welded on and you’re gonna see the threads coming through on each of them. We’re gonna feel back here on the back side and we’re gonna feel the 15mm head of each of these bolts, and we’re gonna go ahead and remove them.
It’s probably a good thing we’re changing our carrier bearing anyways, because our bolts have backed out.
Next thing we’re gonna do is knock our roll pin out of our front prop shaft connecting it to the front differential. We went ahead and removed our tire. We’ve done this only for filming purposes. And as you can see here, we just kind of made a little jig in order to get in there to knock it loose. I just took an extension with a socket and then my punch. There we go, we knocked our roll pin out.
So once we have the pin out of our front prop shaft I’m gonna go ahead and grab it and slide it off of the pinion shaft on the differential. Then we’re gonna angle it down towards the driver’s side to the point where we can get our prop shaft separated, just like that. Then we’ll pull our rear prop shaft off of our transmission and we’ll slide it forward, just like this. And we’re just gonna kind of work it out, just like that.
As you can see, we have a pillow block here on our bearing. Now we’re gonna take our screwdriver and insert it into the back side of the factory pillow block on the carrier bearing, and we’re just gonna work it all the way around. Then we do the center section here, kind of pry it and get it pulled up.
So once you have your bearing removed, or you have your pillow block removed from your bearing, you’re gonna grab your prop shaft and stand it up. You can look down in here, there’s gonna be a snap ring located right there. We’re gonna go ahead and grab our snap ring pliers. There’s our snap ring.
So the next thing we’re gonna do is go ahead and remove our bearing off of our prop shaft. We have a bearing-removal tool here. We highly recommend using a bearing-removal tool, especially if you’re gonna continue to use your factory prop shaft. We just have the lower portion going around the bearing itself. You wanna make sure not to clamp on this part of the prop shaft here—this is actually fixed.
So we went right here to the bearing and there’s a notch that the bearing tool will grab ahold of. We ran a couple extensions, came up here with this top piece, put our nuts on from the threaded piece, and then we put the tip of it in the open portion of the prop shaft. Now we’re just gonna take our impact. It’s gonna back it right off, just like that. Really nothing to it—pretty simple. It came off there nice and easy.
So we’ll just go ahead and remove our bearing out of here, and then we’re gonna grab our new bearing and get it installed.
The next thing we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna go ahead and get our carrier bearing out of the box. We went ahead and removed our bearing and just removed the four screws. The upper portion of the carrier will come apart.
Then we’re gonna take a rag with some Brakleen and we’re gonna clean our prop shaft up real nice here—right there on the bearing surface and kinda all the way around it. Get it as clean as we possibly can. We got a little bit of excess Brakleen there—just dump it out. Once we have that clean, we’re gonna go ahead and take the rag again and clean the inside of the bearing surface, and then just go ahead and overall clean the bearing up a little bit. Whenever we ship them they’ll have a little bit of grease on them. You just wanna make sure you get that all clean.
So our grease ring on our bearing here is gonna go towards the rear, because if you take your carrier bearing assembly and line your grease ring up—you see the grease ring there—and SuperATV’s going towards the front. So that’s how it’s gonna sit when it’s inside the machine, with the grease ring going towards the rear. So now that we know how it’s oriented, we’re gonna go here to our factory shaft and go around with the drain retaining compound, put a good healthy amount all the way around, just like that.
Alright, slide on another grease ring towards the rear. We’re gonna get it kinda lined up and in position. We’ll take our tool that we made here and knock the bearings on. All it is is just a piece of tubing that’s the same diameter or a little bit smaller in diameter than the inner race of the bearing. And well just tap it right on. Let’s check it every second here.
It looks like—if you look, you can see that the lower portion of our bearing is fully seated. Since we are using a factory prop shaft, we’re gonna grab our bearing retaining collar. The beveled side is gonna go towards the bearing, just like this right here. Get the hardware, slide it through, get it started. Once we have both sides good and started, you can actually pull this locking collar apart a little bit. We’re gonna do that.
We’re gonna take just a dab of of some blue Loctite. You don’t need a whole bunch, just a little bit here, just like that. Then we’re gonna grab this Allen wrench—I can feel it starting. And once we’ve got it nice and started, we’ll go ahead and we’ll grab a ratchet and we’ll just get the handle fully tightened up.
So next we’re gonna take the lower portion of our bearing carrier. And as you can see, there’s one side that’s machined down a little bit farther. That’s gonna be the side that we’re gonna want to go towards the front. So what we’ve done, we’ve grabbed our hardware and we’ve put a little bit of Loctite on each of the threads. We’re just gonna kind of take it and slide it up into position here. It’s gonna thread right into the factory holes.
Next we’re gonna grab our prop shaft and we’re gonna go ahead and slide it up past our carrier bearing. Slide it straight back. And this is a CV-style prop shaft from the factory so you can actually grab ahold of the CV an get it to line up, just like that. Now we’re gonna take the prop shaft and get it lined up into our carrier bearing like this, just like it is right here. And we wanna make sure that our grease ring is lined up with our grease ring, and it is.
So since we have it sitting just like this, how we want it, what we can do is we can go ahead and take our cap and put a couple screws in it. Or you can wait until you get your front prop shaft on and then do it. Only thing is, it makes it easier to keep the prop shaft from falling down, to put the cap on. But you may have to take the cap back off. So we’re just gonna go ahead and leave it off.
Alright, next we’re gonna grab our front prop shaft and attach it to the rear. We’ve got to slide it towards the front, get it lined up. Once we have it slid onto our rear prop shaft we’re gonna go ahead and reconnect it to the front differential.
So next we’re gonna grab the upper portion of the bearing carrier. We’re gonna go ahead and put our screws through it. We like to go through and just put a little bit of Loctite on each of the screws here. It should look just like that. We’re gonna make sure our SuperATV is going towards the front.
This is kind of a tricky thing to do here, a little bit. As long as you get everything lined up you should be able to go through and get your screws started. You may have to move it around just a little bit. I can feel it starting. The biggest thing is, you just wanna make sure you keep pressure on the carrier bearing towards the lower half of it. That way it just keeps it all together and keeps the other screw holes lined up. A lot of times you can just go right through, get it started. Once you get them all started it’s not that bad.
So we’re just gonna take our Allen wrench and go through, just start tightening up all our hardware here to the upper portion of our carrier bearing.
Now you’re gonna want to go through and make sure that all your hardware is fully tightened and that you have Loctite on the bolts that secure the bearing carrier to the frame, as well as the four Allen-headed screws that secure the top portion of the carrier to the lower portion. We’ve already done this, everything’s fully tightened. We understand you can’t get a torque wrench on this machine. You just wanna make sure you get it as tight as you can, you know, without stripping the bolts out, obviously.
We’re gonna go ahead and shoot four to five pumps of grease into our bearing. And then while we’re at it—right here, this prop shaft, on the splines—we’ll go ahead and shoot a pump or two in it, just like that. Then we’ll go back here to the rear and we’ll get it as well. And then I don’t believe that the front—so yeah, we’ll wanna do this shaft here, the front shaft where it connects to the rear. And then the rear shaft onto the output shaft on the transmission.
Then we’re gonna put our roll pin in. We’re just gonna reinstall it—put it back in the same exact way that we took it out. Then we’re gonna reinstall our skid plate.
And there you have it. That’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Billet Aluminum Carrier Bearing on this Polaris General 1000. For more information on our carrier bearings or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
