Length: 20:44
Created: November 3, 2020
[0:00] Hey everybody! Today I’m going to show you how to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Carrier Bearing on this Polaris Ranger 1000 Crew.
The first thing we’re going to do is remove the following screws from our SuperATV Skid Plate. If you’re not utilizing a SuperATV Skid Plate and you’re running a factory one, you’ll have to remove your entire skid plate in order to gain access to the bolts.
Now we’re gonna remove the hardware, then the skid plate. Once we’ve removed this section of the skid plate, as you can see, here is our carrier bearing, straight up in between the frame rail here. Then you can see the threads of our bolts securing it to the frame.
[1:09] Now what we’re going to do is take a ratchet wrench and put it right up here, on top of the frame. We’ll go ahead and completely remove these bolts.
This side right here that I’m wrenching on is a little bit easier. For the opposite side, if you’re having issues, you can actually go to the top side and get the bolt. That may be a little easier for you, and we’ll show you how to get to it in just a moment.
Now we’re up on the top side in the back of our machine. We’re going to remove this center console piece by removing all the push pins securing it to the frame here, here, here, and here.
And then do the exact same locations on the opposite side.
[2:04] Once you’ve got all those removed, you’ll just pick straight up on it and you want to remove your 12V accessory plug, the two wires that power that off. If you go straight down from this location, you can see the gold color of the carrier bearing.
Again, I’ve got an angled ratchet wrench here. This is probably the most important tool to this installation.
Once you’ve busted your bolt loose from the top side, a lot of times you can go down through the bottom and unscrew the rest of the way out of the frame.
Next, we’re going to move up to the front of the machine, on the inside. We’re going to remove this center console as well. It’ll be pretty much the same removal. Make sure you remove all 8 of the push pins. Then we’re going to pick up and remove the center console.
[3:06] Next, you’ll want to make sure your passenger-side seat is flipped up. Grab this storage compartment and remove it. Then we’ll go through and remove this push pin right here, this push pin right here, and this push pin. Then we’ll loosen all four of these clamps, and then the two clamps up front.
Remove the wiring harness that runs down. There are intake tubs here—we’ll just pop it straight up and out.
And then this next part is going to be pretty difficult, but we’ll have to wiggle these tubes back and forth. We may have to spray them down with some WD-40, or any other kind of lubricant, to pry these boots off. It’s going to be a really tight squeeze to get them out, but they will come out of there.
[4:17] So once our intake tubes are popped up and out of the way, we can kind of hold them off to the side and look straight down through there. We’ll be able to see both of our bolts for our carrier bearing now.
We’ll go right through our carrier. With this next one, we’ll have to kind of pick up on our hoses here a little bit to get them up and out of the way. We may not be able to move them up enough to get our impact in there, but we should be able to come right through the bottom with a wrench.
Remove both of your bolts. You should be able to move your carrier bearing around.
[5:17] Once we’ve done that, we’re going to head up to the front and knock our roll pin out of our front prop shaft. This one is kind of hard to get to. The tie rod is usually in the way.
If you don’t want to disconnect your tie rod, you can kind of put together a little configuration here, like what I’ve got going on. I got an 11 mm socket with a 6″ extension and my punch. I put a little tape around the punch and put it down in the socket.
We’ll line it up. Now that our prop shaft is disconnected from our pinion shafts on our differential, and both bearing carriers are loose from the frame, we’ll go ahead and slide both of our carrier bearings back as far as they’ll go.
This one’s always far back. Make sure the prop shaft is as far back as it’ll go, which ours is. We’ve got everything back here as far as it’ll go. Then, since we have the prop shaft disconnected from the pinion shaft, we’ll go up front and remove our front prop shaft from the differential.
Then we’re going to slide our prop shaft forward and remove these prop shafts.
[6:30] Now we’re going to take a pry bar and pry our front prop shaft off the differential. Once we’ve popped our prop shaft off the differential, we’ll come over here to the passenger side. Grab hold of the prop shaft and slide it as far as we can forward.
We’ll grab our center prop and slide it all the way forward, as far as we can. Just kind of wiggle our front two. Try to get it up as far as we can, then we’ll head back down to the bottom side to separate our props.
We’ll slide our front prop shaft forward and disconnect it off of our rear-most one. We’ll go ahead and grab this prop and start wiggling it toward the rear.
[7:10] The next thing we’re going to do is remove this push pin from our intake tubes here. That way we can move them around a little bit, to make it that much easier to get our bearing carrier up and out of the way.
We’re going to take our rear prop shaft and slide it all the way toward the back, like this. Grab a pry bar and put it right here on the frame, then pry on the back side of the bearing. I’m just going to kind of force it out—it’s a pretty tight fit, but it will come loose, I promise.
We’ll just kind of rotate it out, like this. Try to get your rear prop shaft out of the way the best you can.
You want to slide it out and then we’re going to reach up right here, toward the front, and grab our front prop. Once we get to this point here, we’re going to peel the outer carrier bearing off the prop shaft and then we’ll continue sliding our prop shaft out, just as we did the rear.
[8:17] Once you’ve removed your carrier bearing from the prop shaft, you’re going to slide it out of the bottom and slide your prop shaft to the rear. Remove it just as you did the center prop shaft.
Now our prop shaft is out. We already have our front and center prop shaft. We’re going to go ahead and remove the pillow block from the carrier bearing, just like that.
Then, if you have a bearing removal tool, just pull your bearing off. We understand not everyone will have a bearing removal tool, so I’m going to show you how easy it is to do without one.
I just take a brass hammer and go around hitting this bearing right off the shaft. Just hit it once, rotate it, hit it just like that. The bearing will come right off. It’s pretty easy.
[9:12] Then we’re going to take some Brakleen and clean all the way around the bearing surface. We’ll go ahead and get our prop shaft nice and cleaned off. We don’t want any dirt or debris on this bearing surface whatsoever.
Once that’s all cleaned up, we’re going to remove all four of the screws on the cap of our carrier bearing. We’ll remove our bearing out. I like to go ahead and clean inside the bearing too, just because it’s probably going to have a little bit of oil in it from where it was made.
See, it just has a little oil in it, but nothing too crazy. We’ll get that cleaned off.
Then we’ll grab our green retaining compound. I like to put a nice, even coat all the way around the shaft. We’ll let it sit for a second then wipe off some of the excess. We’ll grab our bearing and slide it right on.
If you get it straight, it will just slide right onto the shaft. Sometimes if you get it going a little crooked, you may have to just give it a couple taps to get it to go on. A lot of the time, you can get them on there straight, but if you start them just a hair crooked, they don’t like to go on.
[10:41] So now this is fully seated. I’m going to tighten my Allen-headed screws. It’s going to secure the bearing to the prop shaft now. With these, I like to take them out first and I’ll put some blue Loctite on there.
This is going to make a mess—it’s kind of hard not to with these. But I like to honestly just saturate them with the blue Loctite.
Then start them right back down in there. Go ahead and saturate that one down, too. I’ll just put my finger on it and then start it right onto the bearing. Make sure you have a good Allen-headed socket or Allen-headed wrench that you can fully tighten these with. You want to crank these things down.
[11:31] Once both of your screws are set tight, you’re going to repeat these same steps for your other carrier bearing and your other prop shaft.
Now that our bearings are installed to both of our prop shafts and we’ve let our green retaining compound cure for 24 hours, we’re going to install our front prop shaft. We’ll slide it in the same way that it came out.
[12:00] We want to get it all the way forward, as much as we can, and then we’re going to grab our center prop. Slide it in and let it sit right here for the time being. We don’t want to attach the prop shafts to each other yet.
We want to get our front prop shaft and move it all the way forward, then we’ll install the lower portion of our carrier bearing to the frame of the machine.
Now we’re going to reach through and grab hold of our front prop shaft. Get it as far forward as we possibly can.
We’ve slid it forward as far as we can. Now we’ll head back to the bottom side and install the lower portion of our carrier bearing to the frame of the machine.
Now we’ll grab our carrier bearing, the lower portion of it. Make sure that the machined side is down. This side is facing toward the rear of the machine, or the transmission. We’re going to slide it right up on top of where the factory carrier bearing was mounted. Yes, it will be upside down—that’s how you have to mount or carrier bearing in this machine here.
[13:11] Once we’ve got it into place, what I’m going to do is take the hardware that’s provided in the kit and just a little bit of blue Loctite. I like to just have a nice amount on the threads. Then we’re going to reach up, get our bolt, and drop it down through there.
Go ahead and start this bolt by hand. Run it down as far as we can by hand, then we’ll do the same exact thing for this opposite side.
We’re going to look at it here and make sure that’s going to work for our specific setup. It looks like it’s going to be good to go.
[13:48] We’re just going to let our prop shaft lay down and then we’ll go inside the machine. Go up to the front where the carrier bearing was mounted and we’ll do the same exact thing as we did here, with obviously a little bit different process because it’s in a different location.
For the next step, we’re going to couple the two prop shafts together—the front to the center. As you can see, we went ahead and completely removed our intake tubes from our machine. This is absolutely not necessary for this installation but we’re doing it strictly for demonstration purposes.
We’re going to take our prop shafts and our center section and couple it to the front. Make sure it’s shoved forward as far as it’ll possibly go here. We’ve got our rear prop shaft and we’re going to attach it.
[14:42] I’m just going to reach down and hold my rear into place. Slide the front prop or my center prop into it. You don’t want to pull it out of the front, so we’re going up here to the front prop. We’ll slide it all the way back, as far as it can go.
Then we’ll head up to the front and we’re going to slide our prop shaft onto the pinion shaft on the front differential.
Alright, now we’re going to grab our rear prop and line it up with the pinion shaft. We want to make sure our pin hole is lined up on the pinion as well as the prop.
[15:20] Our machine’s on the ground so I’m going to roll our machine forward a bit in order to line the hole up enough to get my roll pin in. I’m just going to reach up in here. Then, as you can see, we have our roll pin hole lined up.
We’re going to take our roll pin and reinstall it the same way that it came out. And if this is the first time removing this roll pin, you can absolutely remove it. If this is the second, I’d highly recommend that you buy a new OEM roll pin.
The next thing we’re gonna do is grab the upper portion of our carrier bearing. We’ll remove two of the screws and leave two.
The two that we left, we’re going to put a little bit of Loctite on them. We want to make sure that our SuperATV is facing toward the rear, and we’ll make sure our grease ring is going to line up, which is is.
We’ll just push the prop shaft up into place. As we’re doing that, we’ll start our screws. We’re going to get two of our screws started initially, just like that. Then we’ll grab our other two and put some Loctite on them.
[16:48] Start them as well. We want to make sure everything’s good and snug, hand tightened. We haven’t fully tightened anything and we’re not going to yet, but now we’ll jump up to the front. Do the exact same thing we did here—the same exact process.
We’re going to go up here and install our front cap. Then we’ll make sure our prop shafts have aligned themselves and then we’ll start tightening up some hardware.
Now that we have our rear carrier bearing in place and hand tightened, we’ll head up front underneath the machine and put the cap of our carrier bearing on. Down here, do the exact same thing.
[17:33] It’ll be the same exact process, just in a different location and a different bearing. Apply a little bit of Loctite to the screw that you leave in, and we want to make sure our grease string is going to line up.
We’re going to make sure the SuperATV is going toward the rear. I like to take my socket here and get my screw ready to go, then slide it all up into position. Take your prop and slide that into position. Then run your screw down by hand.
After that, we’re going to start the rest of our screws and slide them in there. These top screws will go in. They’re a little bit tricky to line up.
[18:34] Then you can take this socket and just angle it in there to start them. I definitely wouldn’t tighten the hardware with it, but as far as starting it goes, it’s just by hand. You’re not going to hurt anything. But if you try to tighten it with a socket, you’ll strip these bolts out.
Now we’re gonna roll the machine back and forth to align our prop shafts aligned and center our bearings.
Then we’ll go through and fully tighten the hardware securing the lower portion of the carrier bearing to the frame. We’ve already tightened it and torqued it to 45 ft. lbs.
[19:25] Just to confirm, you’ll want to torque these two bolts on each carrier bearing. This one, this one, and then the same bolts on the rear carrier.
Now we’re going to fully tighten the four Allen-headed screws located in the top portion of our carrier bearing. We want to tighten them in an X pattern, so it’ll be this one, that one, this one, and that one.
Then we’ll go through and tighten these. We’ll torque them to 20 ft. lbs. and then make sure you tighten those down. Obviously, you won’t be able to get a torque wrench in there just because of the location.
[19:58] After you’ve done that, take your grease gun and stick it right here on the carrier bearing. Put four to five pumps of grease in it. You might as well hit all the zerks that you can see on the prop shafts while you’re down here. Put a couple pumps in the prop shaft as well.
Then we’ll repeat all of these steps for the rear carrier bearing.
Once you’ve reinstalled all your components, that’s how easy it is to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Carrier Bearing on this Ranger XP 1000 Crew. For more information on this carrier bearing or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
