Created: November 16, 2020
[0:00] What’s up, guys? Do you have a busted or leaky radiator on your Polaris General? Well SuperATV’s got the fix with their Heavy-Duty Radiator. Today we’re going to show you how to install it.
The first thing we’re going to do is remove our hood and set it aside. There are going to be two T40s—go ahead and remove those. We’re going to remove all the push pins securing the plastic, the inner cover, to the fenders.
Go ahead and remove those in the front as well. That way we can pull our fenders out and away from the machine. Then we’ll come right here and remove the grille. It’ll just be two push tabs—just push down on them and pull the grille out.
[1:15] There’s gonna be a push pin here, as well as right here. Go ahead and remove those as well.
For the fenders, we’ll kind of pick them up and out. Once we pick up on the fenders, there’ll be another push pin right here. Go ahead and get it out. It’ll be like that on both sides.
Then we’ll loosen these clamps right here and remove the push pin up front, underneath your wiring.
We’re going to come up here and disconnect all of our wires on the pulse bar. You’ll have two grounds and two hots. These wires right here will be our ground wires.
[2:26] Once you remove your nuts, go ahead and thread them right back on there. We’ll come down here. This wire right here is hot right now, so we’re going to tape it up. That way we know we’re not going to short anything out.
Alright, now we know we’re not going to get shocked. So we’ll come right here and remove this plug as well. That’s our accessory plug. Then we’ll start feeding these wires down through the grommets of these tubs. Sometimes you’ve gotta get a screwdriver in here and pry on them a little bit as you raise them up, so they’ll make it past the intake.
[3:27] Come over here and wiggle those up. Now you have all of your harness for the coolant line slid back and out of the way.
Right here, you’ll have a 10 mm on this bracket. Go ahead and remove that for both sides, then we’ll come right here and disconnect both of our plugs here where they’re attached to it.
Once your wiring is removed from your bracket, let’s go ahead and remove both of the brackets. We’ll come here to our upper radiator hose and you can use a pair of pliers or whatever you want to use here.
We just have one of our tools that we use for our cab heaters and we’re going to crimp this hose off. That way we don’t lose as much coolant.
[4:27] We’re going to do that for the lower radiator hose as well, and we’ll come up here. There’s going to be a wiring harness coming off of the fan shroud. It’ll be the fan plug. Reach in here and disconnect that, then we’ll get a pair of pliers and we’ll remove our hose clamps and remove the radiator.
Alright, we’ve pulled down our hose clamp. Now we should be able to get a hold of the radiator hose and slide it off. I’m going to spray a little bit of lubrication on it.
Now remember, this is going to make a mess, so you want to get a drain pan down there or something to help catch it.
[5:01] We’re going to come right here to where our overflow jug hooks up. Pull it off—that’ll make a little bit of a mess as well, but a lot of times you can just take it and run the hose where these push pins would go.
Just slide them in there or anywhere you can get to it, where it’s sticking up, it doesn’t matter. You just don’t want it to be sticking down because it’s going to make a mess.
Then we’ll slide over here to our lower radiator hose. Once it’s all unhooked, we’re going to pick up on it. Make sure there’s no more wiring attached. If you look over here on this side, you’ll have a vent for your diff. Just reach down and disconnect these clips for your vent line.
[6:08] Once that’s loose, you can pull your radiator straight up out of here. I like to lay it on its back. Then we’ll go through and dump all of our coolant from the radiator. Start swapping our fan shroud and ran over to our new radiator.
If you have a factory winch installed, your factory solenoid mount will be right here. You’ll see that it has a screw running through here. We’ll have to run in here and remove that screw. That way we can flip our solenoid bracket.
Then obviously, if you don’t have a factory winch, you don’t have to worry about this part.
Once your screws are removed, just grab hold of this mount. Rotate it straight up like that, then go ahead and reinstall your screw.
[7:05] Now we’re going to grab our lower bracket, as well as our hardware. You’ll have two nuts and two washers. We’re going to slide this bracket down, right into the factory holes where the radiator used to mount.
Once it’s slid down in there, the studs will be protruding out of the bottom. We’ll slide a washer on and then a nut.
What we’ll do now is snug the hardware on this, but we’re not going to fully tighten it because obviously we have just a little bit of room where we can rotate this and move it around.
The next thing we’ll do is come over to the driver’s side on our factory shroud. You’ll see there’s a little piece of plastic right here that’s kind of protruding down. Well, that’s going to get hung up on our radiator, so we need to cut this out.
Take the utility blade and slide it right into the corner. If you just follow the way the rest of the shroud goes, follow that line, you’ll cut it right out and then it’ll be squared off, just like that.
[8:26] It’s nice and quick and easy. Yours should look just like this. You may have to trim a little bit more off as you go, but as long as you can get it close, you should be good to go.
Now we have both of our radiators sat right here next to each other. They’re oriented exactly the same. We’ll remove our fan off the OEM radiator and slide it right onto the new SueprATV radiator.
Line all of your holes up. You want to go through and make sure you get them nice and tight, then we’re ready to slide this one in and install it. You just have to get down here and make sure we’re lined up on both sides. Make sure everything is in there correctly.
[9:32] Then we’re going to grab our upper mounts and see where they’re laying. These are lining up good. Make sure your harness is flipped up on top.
We can go ahead and start hooking everything back up. I’m going to go ahead and get my diff vent tube hooked back in. We can plug our fan back in here and grab our hardware—our 10 mm hardware that secures those down.
Fasten all of those back down here.
I’m going to start my hardware for just right now. We’ll have to come back through and fully tighten everything. We can get this upper radiator hose slid on. We’ll go ahead and get our pliers here.
[10:36] Make sure our hose clamps back on nice and tight. Make sure you put your clamp in the same position that it was in previously, on the factory radiator. We’ll do the same thing for our lower radiator hose.
Again, make sure it’s clamped nice and tight. We don’t want any leaks.
Make sure that looks nice and secure. Come back in just to double check that everything’s laying nicely and properly.
[11:21] These harnesses here that previously had the hole, you could drill a hole for them or you could zip tie the harnesses back to your upper mounts. Either way, it’s going to work perfectly fine.
Alright, now we’re going to go ahead and grab our liner. We’ll slide it back into position. I’m going to grab my wires and feed them through here, as well as on the other side, like that.
[12:18] Then we’ll just flip this up and grab our winch wires. We’ll run right up through here as well. Go ahead and grab our search hose here. As you can see, it’s got that factory routing position. Follow that, but you also want to make sure you slide it back on to the actual radiator.
We’ll grab hold of our fenders here and feed the liner back underneath of it. Just flip everything back to where it should be.
Now you’ll see one issue right here, where your vent hose is coming off the top of your radiator. You’ll see it’s making contact right there, so what we need to do is mark that area with a paint marker. Then we’re just going to take a dremel and dremel a little section out.
We’ll take our dremel, get it ready to go, and pick up on this. Just hold it out of the way for just a second. Reach down through here at the dremel.
[13:42] So we’re going to give everything a once-over and make sure we don’t have any hoses cramped or anything in the wrong position. We’ll slide up through the bottom here and take a look.
Everything looks good, everything feels good. There isn’t a bind anywhere—all of our holes are lined up, so that means nothing’s pinched. All of our plugs and wiring are here.
Here’s one thing you have to worry about—your fascia, or your fenders. You have to make sure that groove goes back down in there.
[14:13] I’m going to start putting all of my factory hardware back in and make sure we get these hold-downs screwed down. Go ahead and fully tighten them. Make sure everything lines up and put all of our push pins back in.
We’re going to go back through and hook up all of our wiring, just like that. Make sure you plug your plug back in. That’ll slide right between them.
[15:21] So now all of our harnesses and everything are ran just like they were from the factory. All of our push pins are back in. So now the last thing to do is fill up the radiator.
I’m going to go ahead and fill our radiator up. Once it’s filled up, just like that, we’ll hop in and put the cap back on. We’re going to put the cap on then we’ll hop in it, fire it up, and let it run. Let it circulate.
It’s going to circulate at first, and that way we can check for leaks and things of that nature as well.
Since we know we didn’t really lose any from our lines, we can go ahead and show you one of the tricks that we use. We usually take our pliers. This is something that comes with our cab heater kits. And we’ll come over here to the driver’s side of the radiator.
[16:24] We’ll cap it all. We’re utilizing a lift but obviously, you could do this with a jack. We like to get the front of the tires on our lift here. Make sure our machine’s in park.
We’ll start raising the machine up a little bit. Once we have it up, just to make sure we’re not going to have any issues or this thing’s not going to fall off or anything of that nature, I like to take a strap and wrap it around our lift. Then just tie it in anywhere that you can. That way we know it’s not gonna roll off our lift.
We’ll rev it up to 3000 RPMs until our fan kicks on. You’ll want to do that a couple times. You’ll want to make sure you crimp this hose off, let it heat up, and then let it heat soak.
[17:33] Pop the cap. Get the front end up in the air, because all of the air is going to want to travel upwards. If you make the radiator cap the highest point, all of your air is going to travel up there.
Once you’ve done that a couple times, if you still have air in your system, you can go back to the motor and find the bleeder screw on the motor That’ll release all the air from the motor as well.
Once you have that, you should be good to go as long as you’re machine’s not overheating, obviously.
[18:00] Go through and make sure it’s topped off with coolant. Double check all your hardware. Make sure everything’s tied up out of the way.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Radiator on this Polaris General XP 1000! For more information on this radiator or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
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