Created: May 11, 2021
Do you have a leaky, busted, or worn-out radiator? Well, SuperATV has you covered with our heavy-duty radiator, and today we’re going to show you how to get one installed on this Polaris RZR Trail S 1000. Let’s get right to it.
[00:38] First, we’ll clamp off our radiator hoses. You can do this anyway you like. We have these hose clamp pliers that work really well. We’ll get right here by the nipple on the radiator and clamp that as tight as we can for the lower hose. Then we’ll do the same thing on our upper hose—clamp it tight.
After that, we’ll disconnect the lower hose. Take a pair of pliers, get on this clamp, squeeze it, and slide it back to about that point.
[01:16] Whenever you take this hose off, you are going to have coolant running everywhere. You want to get a drain pan and some rags handy. This is a good time to drain the radiator and flush your coolant system. That’s what we’ll do. Whatever comes out of this radiator, we won’t reuse. You can if you want, but we recommend putting in new Polaris coolant.
Grab this hose and wiggle it. As you can see, it’s going to make a mess—no way around it. Get some rags and toss them down the floor, so your floor doesn’t get slick while you’re working.
[02:02] Next, we’ll remove our hood. Let’s set this out of the way for the time being. Then we have a few steps to take care of. You’ll have a hose right here. Go ahead and remove it. Set the hose out of the way for now.
Next, we’ll remove the following bolts. We won’t be using our upper mounts. We’ll be using the ones that come in the kit. So if you have any wiring attached or anything like that, you’ll want to disconnect it. As you can see, this one has a wiring harness on it. Grab it and twist it out like that. With that removed, we’ll set aside the factory bracket. We won’t be using it anymore. This one comes completely off. Set it out of the way.
[03:11] Then we’ll have this harness right here. It’ll be running through. Come right here, cut the zip tie, separate everything, and push this harness back out of the way.
Then we’ll reach down through here. You’ll have a fan plug. Pick up on the tab and disconnect it. Then disconnect the upper radiator hose, remove it, and let it hang down.
[03:56] Once you have your differential vent tube off, your harness unplugged, and your radiator hoses off, you can grab hold of your radiator and rotate it. Spin it to where it’s facing like this, and then pull it straight up and out. It’s definitely going to leak more coolant.
[04:25] Next, we’ll transfer our fan from our old radiator to our new heavy-duty radiator. Remove these four 10 mm screws. Then we’ll lay our fan on the new one and reinstall our hardware.
Once all your hardware is tightened, you’ll have a new nipple in the kit for your hose. We’ll just thread in here. It has a 10 mm head, so we’ll grab a 10 mm wrench like that.
[05:10] Now, we’re ready to get our new radiator installed to our machine.
Next, we’ll grab our lower mount, flat washers, and Nyloc nuts and get them installed. Here, you have your factory lower mounts where your radiator was mounting to. We’ll put the studs of our lower brackets into the factory holes here. Once in the factory holes, you’ll take one of your flat washers and install it to the threads. Then, take your Nyloc nut and thread it on. Grab your bracket and slide it toward the back of the machine—as far it’ll go. Lastly, fully tighten your hardware on both sides.
[05:51] Now, we’ll install our heavy-duty radiator. Slide it in sideways like this. As you go down, move any wiring harness, vent tube, or anything that could get in your way. Be careful. You don’t want to tear anything up. Once it’s in there, rotate it like this.
Then we’ll go to the bottom and get it lined up with our lower mount. All right, we got it slid into our mount. While we’re here, I’m going to reattach our differential vent tube. That’ll go like that on the differential vent.
[07:05] We’ll grab our upper mounts and slide them into position. Take the factory T40 Torx that goes out here and get it started. We’ll also grab our factory 10 mm bolt. This will go into the frame. Grab the opposite side mount and put it in. Then we can fully tighten our hardware, T40s, and 10 mm.
We’re going to take our vent tube and route it back through here and on the nipple. We’ll plug our fan back in. We’ll grab our upper radiator hose and reinstall it. After that, we’ll get our pliers and reinstall the clamp. Then reinstall your lower hose.
[08:32] Make sure your lines are crimped off at this time. You don’t want to undo whatever you have crimping your line. You’ll slide your clamp on and line it up with the factory markings on your hose. Just make sure it’s behind the barb. That way it makes a good seal.
[08:58] With your line still crimped and your radiator hose connected to the heavy-duty radiator, you want to reach in here and take your radiator cap off. By picking up the plastic a little bit, you can slide it right past. Then we’ll take a funnel and slide it into the radiator.
We suggest using whatever coolant is recommended for your machine. We’re using a full strength antifreeze. Then fill your reservoir to the cold fill level as well.
[09:55] Once you’ve reinstalled the radiator cap, it’s time to remove the clamps. We’ll only remove the clamp off the lower radiator hose, which is on the passenger side. On the driver’s side, we’ll leave it clamped until we get the machine bled.
[10:10] For this next step, there’s a couple of different ways to bleed the machine. I like to get the front end off the ground and lower the back end. Make sure your machine is in park. Then fire it up and hold the throttle to about 2500 to 3000 RPM. It may take 10 minutes. It doesn’t have to be a constant 2500 RPM. You can bounce back and forth. Just keep it revved up until the machine starts to overheat.
When you hear the fan kick on, come up here and remove your clamp off your upper radiator hose. That’ll allow it to circulate coolant. Then it’ll work all the air back to the motor. We’ll go back here and show you where the bleeder screw is on the motor.
[10:55] Next, remove the driver side seat. Then come to the center of the machine and remove the inspection/service panel. If you look straight up here, you’ll see the bleeder screw.
Be careful, this heat shield will be hot. I recommend using a pair of gloves or something before you touch the heat shield. We’ll come right through here and there’ll be a bolt. You’re going to crack the bolt loose. It’s going to push the air out of the motor. Make sure you get this tight whenever you reinstall it.
[11:35] Just crack the bleeder screw, no need to completely remove it. I’m running a 5/16 mm or 8 mm (same thing) on a long 1/4” extension with a 1/4” ratchet. You could reach in there to get it with a 3/8 mm, but I recommend doing it like this. It’s a lot safer. You don’t have get your hands in there. It’s very hot, especially after the motor has been running. This is the ideal setup.
Once you crack it, it’ll get all the air out of the motor. Then you’ll let it sit and heat soak for a little bit. Once it’s cooled down, take the cap off and check your level. Continue repeating these steps. Make sure the coolant is topped off. Do it until you don’t have any air coming out of your bleeder screw and the coolant reservoir is topped off, as well as the radiator. Then you’re good to go.
All right guys, that’s all there is to install SuperATV’s heavy-duty radiator on this Polaris RZR Trail S 1000. To pick up your radiator today, check us out online. Be sure to like, comment, and subscribe. We’ll catch you on the next one.
How to Install a Flip Windshield on a Polaris RZR Trail S 900
How to Install Heavy-Duty Nerf Bars on a Can-Am Defender
How to Install a Flip Windshield on a CFMOTO ZForce 950
How to Install Billet Tie Rods on a Polaris RZR PRO XP
How to Install an Aluminum Roof on a Honda Talon 1000X-4
How to Install a 3-in-1 Windshield on a Can-Am Defender