Length: 17:12
Created: February 5, 2020
Do you have a bent, broken, or worn-out prop shaft, or is it just time to upgrade? Well SuperATV’s got you covered with our Rhino series prop shafts, and today we’re gonna show you how to get one installed on this Polaris RZR XP Turbo. So let’s get to it.
The first thing you’re gonna do is remove your seats from your machine. We’ve already done this so now we’re gonna remove all the fasteners securing the console to the machine.
The next thing we’re gonna do is remove the scatter shield. This customer’s machine already has the scatter shield removed, so our installation’s gonna be a little bit different than yours, but we’re gonna tell you what you’re gonna need to do if you have your factory scatter shield installed.
You’re gonna want to remove the following hardware. Then once you’ve removed all the hardware you’re gonna remove the whole center section of your floorboard.
So what we’re gonna do to access the rear bolt is go right here to the rear access panel. Slide that out, and we’re just gonna follow our shield. Obviously our shield’s not in the machine, but you just follow your shield and directly straight down you’re gonna see a small 10mm bolt or two 40mm bolts, depending on what year your machine is. Like I said, ours is already removed, so we’re gonna head to the next step.
Then you’ll remove the two front bolts that will be attached to the carrier bearing and the scatter shield.
Now we have our bolts removed from our carrier bearing. So we’re gonna head up front, remove our tire, and knock our roll pin out of our front prop shaft. We’re gonna take our punch and knock the roll pin out of our prop shaft. Once we have a roll pin removed out of the front prop shaft, we’re gonna head back to the rear and disconnect the prop shaft from the transmission.
So now we’re gonna grab a 6mm Allen and come to the four Allen-headed screws here in the prop shaft to the flange on the transmission. We’re gonna go ahead and get our Allen wrench and one of the heads of our Allen-headed screws here. Make sure it’s in there as far as it will go. What I like to do is, I like to leave this tire on. So as you can see, I have my Allen wrench already in the head of the screw. I’m gonna rotate it up so it barely touches the clutch cover and I’m gonna go back in a swift, fast motion and it’s gonna bust this screw loose.
As you can see there, it busted it loose. Makes it a lot better than having to stick a pry bar in there and struggle around. It’s a nice little trick just to help you out, especially if these bolts have been in there since 2016, in this one’s case. Just rotate it around until you get it lined up again. I like to go through and get them all busted loose.
Once they’re all busted loose, I’ll come over here and I’ll grab my 6mm Allen socket. You can use a ratchet, but I’m gonna go ahead and use an impact just to make it a little bit faster. You can slide your impact right up through here, underneath the clutch cover. Get it lined up. Then just go through and remove all four of your screws completely.
With our prop shaft disconnected from the flange on the transmission, we’re gonna come right here to the motor mount and remove the two 13mm nuts. Once we have the nuts removed we’re gonna slide a big pry bar underneath the motor mount here and pry up on it. And as we’re prying I’m just kinda working the pry bar in there and getting it in there as deep as I can.
And then if you pick it up you can let it sit on the studs. You just wanna watch your fingers. You don’t want to get anything in there. I usually like to leave the pry bar kinda hanging around in there for safety, just in case it does want to jump down in the holes again.
So we’ve got that laid in there. And like I said, the prop shaft is disconnected at this point. So we’re gonna reach in and grab the prop shaft. And it will just slide right off of the front. Then just kinda rotate it so you can pick your flange up. You should just be able to slide it right out the back. Once you get it separated I’ll just slide it all the way out the rear. There we go.
As you can see, this prop shaft is just about junk here. So it’s definitely time to upgrade to a Rhino series prop shaft.
So the next thing that you’re gonna do is you’re gonna take the screwdriver and stick it into the pillow block of your factory carrier bearing. Obviously we don’t have a factory carrier bearing because we’re utilizing a Rhino front prop shaft, so what you’re gonna want to do is put the screwdriver in there, pry the carrier bearing off the prop shaft, and then you’re gonna slide it all the way up, as far as you can to the left. Pull the bearing and everything off. You can leave the bearing attached to the prop shaft. Just take the pillow block off, just like that. Just slide it right up through the center section here on your console. Just like that right there.
Then you’ll go ahead and you’ll discard your factory carrier bearing and prop shaft.
So now what we’re gonna do is get our front prop shaft out of the box. Grab a pair of snap-ring pliers and we’ll go ahead and remove the snap ring off the prop shaft and we’ll set that aside for just a second here. Then you’ll want to remove all of the 6mm Allen screws out of your carrier bearing. Go ahead and remove the carrier bearing itself.
We’re gonna grab a little Brakleen and I’m gonna go over here to the prop shaft. Right here on the bearing surface just go ahead and get that cleaned up. Just use a little Brakleen and wipe it down real nice. Make sure it’s good and dry. And then do the same thing on the inner race of this bearing here. Make sure everything’s nice and clean. You don’t want any residual oil or anything like that.
Then we’re gonna take our green retaining compound and we’re gonna apply it on the bearing surface here. Make sure you get a good, even coat all the way around. Just like that—make sure it covers everything. Whenever you go to put that bearing on there it will kinda flatten out a little bit.
Now we’re gonna take our bearing and we’re gonna install it towards the front. As you can see, there’s a grease ring. That grease ring needs to go towards the front yoke where it’s gonna attach to the front differential. It’s gonna slide on there. Get it started good and straight. Get it as straight as you can get it.
Then we’ll take our tool here. We made this—just a piece of piping with an end welded on it that fits the inner race. You can use anything that will fit on the inner race only. We’ll just get it lined up and we’ll just smack it down. Make sure your bearing spins freely there. We’re good, we’re lined up, so we’re gonna grab our snap ring. Make sure it’s fully seated in the groove. Looks like it’s fully seated all the way around, so it’s good to go.
We’re just gonna sit our prop shaft on the ground here for just a second. We’re gonna install the lower portion of our carrier bearing. So whenever you install a SuperATV carrier bearing on a RZR Turbo you’re gonna make sure the SuperATV is facing towards the rear. So when you put this together, you see the grease ring and everything is gonna be lined up, just like this, all the way around. You wanna make sure that it fits just like that, so that way, whenever you sit your prop shaft into the lower portion of your bearing carrier, your grease ring and everything lines up. So here’s how we need to orient it—just like this.
So now we’re gonna take our carrier bearing. Like I said before, we’re gonna make sure that SuperATV’s facing the rear. It should look just like this, with the machined surface facing towards the rear of the machine. We’re gonna lay it down right into the factory holes. I’ll get it all lined up.
We’re gonna take some Loctite. We provide blue Loctite in the kit but I have some blue Loctite sitting out, so I’m just gonna go ahead and use the kind that I have here. Let’s go ahead and we’ll get our bolt started.
Now we’re gonna grab our front prop shaft and we’re gonna slide it down into the tunnel here, just as we removed the factory one. Wiggle it around and let’s get it slid back down and then slide it to the front. Slide it to the point where you can go to the front and then we’ll run up here to the front prop shaft yoke. We’re gonna line the hole and the prop shaft up with the hole on the pinion shaft for the front differential.
You may have to grab ahold of the prop shaft and kinda lift it up. Otherwise you may have issues getting it over top of the actual bearing carrier itself. What I’m gonna do here is—if you have somebody to help you it’s no big deal, but if you’re working by yourself it can be kind of an issue here to get it over the top. So I’m just gonna put that there, that way whenever I pull it, it’ll pull up on top of the bearing carrier.
Now take the provided roll pin and install it into the yoke, through the pinion shaft on the differential.
Now what we’re gonna do is make sure that our grease ring is lined up on our carrier bearing to our bearing carrier. It looks like it is, so we’re gonna go ahead and tighten down our outer bolts. You wanna tighten these down and then torque them to 45 ft/lb.
Once we have the bolts to our lower portion of our bearing carrier torqued to 45 ft/lb, we’re gonna go ahead and grab the upper portion. Stick our screws through and just go ahead and put a little bit of Loctite on each of the threads here. We’re gonna make sure that our SuperATV is facing the rear. We’ll get our screw started, a little portion here.
After you have your bolts started, go ahead and tighten them up in an X pattern, and then go through and torque them to 20 ft/lb. We’ve already done this so we’re gonna head back to the rear and start sliding our new rear prop shaft up and connecting it to the front.
So now we have our new prop shaft and we’re ready to get it installed. One thing you need to keep in mind is the fixed ends—which, this is gonna be a fixed end of the prop shaft—you need to make sure that they’re opposite of each other. So the front is sitting like this right now. So whenever we install this prop shaft we’re gonna rotate it to where it sits like this. And it will be like that on both sides.
So we got it rotated how we want. We’re just gonna go ahead—we’ve got our motor jacked up still with our pry bar. We’re gonna take our prop shaft, slide it right through, exactly how it came out.
Once we get it to this point right here, to where it’s almost gonna be sliding on to the spline flange of the other prop shaft, we’re gonna head back inside and get them connected.
So now we’re gonna go ahead and attach our prop shaft to our transmission. So what we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna grab some Loctite and we’re gonna apply it to the threads of the four bolts that secure the prop shaft to the transmission here. I’ll just kinda take my hand, get it up underneath of the prop shaft, and then rotate the flange around so it all lines up. It will kinda sit there. You do have to be careful.
And then you’ll just want to keep rotating the prop shaft, as well as the transmission, until you can get all four of your screws in. And then you want to tighten them down in an X pattern. Just make sure that you apply Loctite and that you get them all fully tightened.
Go through, reinstall your components, make sure all your hardware is fully tightened. And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino Series Prop Shaft in this Polaris RZR XP Turbo.
For more information on our Rhino series prop shafts or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
