Length: 46:33
Created: December 23, 2020
[0:00] Hey guys! Here’s how to install a High Gear Kit and Clutch Kit on this Polaris RZR XP Turbo. Let’s get started.
First, remove both rear wheels and tires. Once you’ve done this, disconnect the shock from the trailing arm and the sway bar link from the sway bar.
After you’ve done that, remove your radius arms from the trailing arms. You just want to pick up on the trailing arm and pull your bolts out. We’ll let our radius arms hang and stick our hardware back through. That way, we don’t lose our bushings.
Start the bolts and let them hang. Just kind of tilt your trailing arm out a little bit and make sure your shocks have been put out of the way.
[1:04] Drop it down and put your hardware in. Let it hang as well. We’ll go ahead and disconnect the brake caliper. Once the hardware is removed, remove the brake caliper. Lay it up and out of the way. Remove your cotter pin from the castle nut and then remove the castle nut.
I’m going to pick up on the trailing arm and wiggle the hub off. This will be a little easier if you don’t have a long travel kit. We’re running a long travel kit, so as soon as we take the shocks off, the suspension wants to go all the way down.
[1:52] Let’s disconnect it and remove it. Grab the axle and pull it out of the transmission. Make sure your caliper’s laying like this—you don’t want it to be hanging on that brake line too hard.
Now repeat all of these steps for the passenger side.
[2:13] Then we’ll go through and remove and loosen our clamp. That way we can pull the vent tube off the clutch cover. Remove all the hardware for the clutch cover, then we’ll remove it.
Now we’ll remove the bolt from the primary clutch, as well as our secondary clutch. Start with the primary here. Go ahead and remove the bolt from the secondary. Then we’ll remove the belt, just to make it that much easier to get the clutches off.
We have this tool right out of our factory tool kit. Thread it in here until the spreads the secondary sheaths apart. You want to get it as wide as it can be. Then we’ll roll our belt right off the secondary.
[3:16] Once it’s removed from the secondary, slide it off the primary. Let it lay there because we’re going to pull the primary off, too.
Then we’ll remove our belt removal tool from the secondary clutch. Just unthread it all the way out of there, then remove the snap ring. Take the washers off. Grab our secondary and slide it straight off.
It’s very important that you keep the secondary together. Make sure you don’t lose any of your washers or snap rings. We’re going to pull our shock bolt back out of the way.
[4:06] Grab the primary clutch puller, which can be purchased from SuperATV.com. Thread it right into the primary. Then grab our socket and impact and tighten it up. It should pull right off of the crankshaft.
Remove the primary clutch. It’s very important that you leave this bolt exactly how it was—don’t flip it around when you reinstall it. That could cause vibration and cause your clutch to not function properly or make the belt slip.
We’ll set this primary down on the ground, exactly how we pulled it out. Then we’ll start removing all four of the Allen-headed screws from the prop shaft.
[5:08] Once you’ve removed all four Allen-headed screws from the prop shaft, separate the flange. Grab it and you should be able to wiggle it and make it slide forward. Once you’ve slid it off the flange, you’re good to go. It’ll just sit like that.
When we pull out the transmission, we’ll just wiggle it right past it.
Now we’ll remove these six screws. We have three torques and three 10 mms. We’ll remove those now, then remove the bolts securing the clutch cover to the transmission, as well as the motor.
[6:01] You can do this by yourself, but it is a little bit easier if you have somebody to help you. If you’re doing it by yourself, you’ll need a pretty big wingspan to reach around here and put a wrench on your bolt.
Reach around to the other side with the socket and remove the nut from the bolt. You don’t want to remove any of these bolts just yet—two of the bolts go through the motor mount, between the motor and the transmission. The other two will be bolted in the transmission.
Now that all of our nuts are removed, we’ll take a pry bar and stick it up underneath the engine. Pick up on it a little bit, then we’ll come over to the opposite side.
[6:45] As we’re picking up, we’ll remove our bolts. Just wiggle it around until you get all your bolts out. Be mindful that as soon as you pull the last bolt out, this inner clutch cover will come off as well.
So we’ll leave our pry bar underneath the transmission for a minute here. Grab this inner clutch cover and slide it off. That’ll get this one to move. You’ll want to move anything that’s in the way and get it out of the way.
Now we’ll take our clutch cover and set that aside. Then we’ll head over to the passenger side and start doign soem wiring.
[7:30] We’re going to disconnect all the wires. Disconnect this connection, and there will also be a connection backup underneath, on the back side. Disconnect that one.
Then we’ll come in here and cut any zip ties. This transmission has been out before, so it probably has zip ties on it. This one has been, so there are definitely zip ties holding it to the transmission.
If you have push pins, you’ll want to pry those out with a push pin removal tool.
Pull the wiring back and keep it out of the way. Then we’ll come over here and remove this pin. You may have to get a pair of needle-nose pliers or a flathead or something. Just stick it in there and pry it off.
When you remove this pin, there will be a few different shims. Make sure you catch all of those. See, right here, we have our shims. This piece will be on the inside also.
[8:44] After you remove this, make sure you have all of these. You don’t want to lose them. I like to go ahead and remove it all and set it aside. That way we don’t drop anything when we’re pulling out the transmission.
Once we’ve removed the shift cable from the transmission, back this nut off. Just one turn only on this nut that’s closest to the engine. After you’ve done that, grab your cable and slide it right out. Then set that to the side.
Make sure you don’t touch that nut. Leave it, that way when you reinstall your transmission, you won’t have to make any adjustments at all.
[9:20] Next we’re going to disconnect the vent tube from the transmission, then lay it up out of the way, toward the motor. We’ll remove the seven bolts—three on the transmission side, three on the frame side of the rear transmission, and then separate the mount from the bracket.
We’ll get in here and remove the vent tube real quick. Once you’ve removed the hardware from your rear mount, the mount will just slide right out.
Then we’ll remove the transmission. Rotate it as you’re picking up and it will just slide right out.
[10:24] Now, go through and clean the transmission. Take an air blower and blow it off. Use Brakleen—just make sure you don’t get any Brakleen inside of your connections, and be careful as you’re moving it around.
We’ve already done this so we’ll go ahead and remove the shift lever from the transmission. Once you remove the nut, just wiggle it around.
After we’ve removed our selector, we’ll remove the clip from this right here. We’ve already done this, so we’ll just pull it straight up. Set that side.
Now we’ll go through and remove all five of these bolts. Then take a small screwdriver and get underneath the lip. Now you have to take a bigger one and start prying straight up.
It does have a bunch of silicone in it, so it’ll be stuck there a little bit. Just remove this and slide it straight up. Make sure all of your components stay together, then we’ll set this aside.
[11:51] Now we’ll come in here and remove this, as well as this here, and then this spring. Be careful when you take that off because sometimes this spring will jump right up and out and then fly across the floor, then you’ll lose it.
Grab this gear and remove it as well. All of these gears are splined so you can’t really mess it up. You just need to be careful and make sure you’re inspecting all of the gears as you go. Make sure it’s all correct and nothing’s damaged.
Now we’re going to remove all of the bolts securing the case halves together. Once the bolts are removed, there will be three spots on this transmission.
You can take a pry bar, a screwdriver, or anything like that and stick it in between the two case halves. Pry up and just work it all the way around. There will be one right here, then right here.
[12:50] All I did was take a pry bar, put it in there, and work it. Then I came over here and worked that a little bit, and then it split. So our case is split now. All we’ll do is grab it, pick straight up, and set this side of the case down, just like that.
Now our transmission is fully exposed. We have everything opened up and we’ll go through and inspect everything. Look to see if anything is damaged or broken, or if you need to order a bearing or any parts.
[13:32] At this point, we’ve inspected everything. Everything is looking good in our transmission. We hope everything is good in yours as well! So we’ll go on to the next step.
Grab hold of the shift drum, which is this piece right here, and the shift fork. On this shift fork, there is a spring in it. You can actually pick up on it.
So what you’ll do is pick straight up, wiggle the shift drum out, and set it aside. Grab the shift fork and pull it out. Set it aside, exactly how it came out, just to make it that much easier on you.
[14:05] Then we’re going to reach around and grab hold of our idler gear. Remove the gear and set it down, just as it came out. Grab hold of the big shaft—you may have to tap on it a little bit to get it to come out. Be easy on that seal. Set that down as well.
Now we’ll grab these two gears sets. Pull them up simultaneously. You just have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit, and they’ll both come out. This one, we can set over here on the left side. Just remember exactly how it came out.
And then this side is the one we’re going to remove the lower bearing from. This is how it came out of the transmission—it was just sitting in there like this. What we’ll do is flip it upside down and take this bearing off.
[15:06] In order to do that, you need a bearing puller. If you don’t have one, you can pick one up from a local hardware store—you can rent them. Just loosen your bearing puller up until you can get it around this bearing. Slide it in there and make sure the side with the groove goes underneath the bearing.
We’ll get in there and line it up. Tighten these up. Once we have our tool tight, we’ll grab these two pieces from the bearing puller set. Thread them in on each side, then slide this piece down over top of these threads.
Put washers on top of each thread, then thread them down. You don’t have to tighten them. Then we’ll grab a 17 mm and put it right here. Thread it down, then we’ll take our impact and start tightening it. After that, the bearing will come free.
[16:18] Remove the nuts. I just want to inspect the bearing and make sure it’s in good shape. Then we’ll take our snap ring pliers and remove this snap ring.
After you do that, there will be a washer right here. Pull the gear off and pull this set of roller bearings, the needle bearings. Set our gear aside, then we’ll take the next snap ring off. Set that aside as well.
Then we’ll pull the hub off. Alright, let’s set the factory hub aside. Now we’ll grab the hub that’s included in the kit.
[17:20] When you’re looking at this, there are two ways it can go together. There’s a right way and a wrong way. The side with the shorter nubs needs to face straight up, like this. Slide that on there and line it up.
Then we’ll take our snap ring and re-install it. Make sure it sits down in this groove right here.
Next, take our washer and slide it down into place. We’re going to install our needles, then the needle bearing. Then we’ll take our new gear and install it just like this.
Make sure the gear meshes up properly. Take the washer and put it into place. Take the snap ring and make sure it fully seats all the way around. For this bearing, you’ll have to get a couple of extensions and your threaded ends.
Start your nut and then here, inside the shaft, I took a bolt and stuck it down inside. That way I’m not pressing inside here because if you try to shove this press in there, it could potentially get stuck.
[19:12] We just slid a bolt in the hole, then we’ll go ahead and tighten it up. Pull the bearing off, no problem at all.
Then we’ll loosen our tool and remove the bearing. Now that this bearing is off, we’ll slide it on the end of the shaft that we’ll be pressing it onto. That way we know where our bearings are and we won’t get confused or anything like that.
Do the same thing for the opposite side, except we don’t need as many extensions here. Essentially, remove the bearing the same way as you did the other two bearings.
Now we’ll press the bearings onto our shafts. Make sure you transferred your bearings off of your factory shaft to your new shaft, so you’ll have a small one on top and a larger one on the bottom. Then we’ll have the one large bearing on top of this shaft.
[20:15] Let’s head over to the press. The biggest thing here is to make sure your bearing is started nice and straight. We’ve already started ours straight, and it’s perfectly fine to press off this bottom bearing.
We have it laying on a good and flat surface. Make sure you get something that fits the inner race of the bearing, just like any time you’re pressing a bearing on. We’ll line it up and press this bearing all the way on. Make sure it goes all the way down and that it fully seats on the shaft.
[21:04] Make sure the inner race of the bottom portion is sitting on the shaft—ours is. Now we’ll press our bearings onto our other shaft.
Now it’s time to start reassembling the transmission. Go through and make sure all of your bearings are still spinning good, all of the ones you just pressed on. All of ours are nice and quiet, spinning nice and free, so we’ll grab this gear. It’s the one we changed the lower gear out for, as well as the hub. Grab this gear, too.
When you change this hub out, you flip it upside down. So now we’ll flip it right side up, so the small bearing and the hub are facing toward the top.
[21:49] Grab this one so the big bearing is facing toward the top. We’ll simultaneously put these in together. You have to put them in together—otherwise you won’t get it to work.
It’s in there, so now we’ll grab the longer shaft. It’s going where the secondary clutch will go on. Slide it right down, just make sure you’re careful on that seal. You don’t want to damage it.
That’s in place now. Make sure the gears are meshing properly. Now we’ll grab our small idler gear. I’ll go in like this, and all the gears are meshed properly.
Here’s another thing to make sure of—clean everything up. If you have any debris, make sure you clean the transmission out before you reassemble it. There’s no better time to do it than now.
We’re going to take the shaft and line up both of our hubs, on the top and the bottom. Then you want to pick up on the shaft. It has a spring in it, and once you line it up with the hole, it’ll drop right back in.
[23:27] We’re going to grab our shaft and make sure this portion of it is facing this way. Pick up on it and make sure everything lines up properly. You have to rotate it around a little bit, then it should drop right into place.
Make sure everything is lined up and nothing is making any contact. Make sure it’s fully seated. It looks like ours is good to go.
Let’s go through and inspect everything, making sure there is no contact anywhere with the gears. Check and make sure this gear isn’t riding on this gear, so on and so forth. Just double check and make sure they’re meshing up properly.
Our transmission looks good. We’re going to spin it—looks like it’s good to go there.
[25:16] So now we’ll start re-assembling the transmission. Go through and make sure our case is completely clean, where it’ll match up with the other half. We’ve already done this.
We’re going to take some gray silicone. Make sure you use gray because it has the highest oil resistance. We’ll take our silicone and apply a small bead all the way around. Make sure, when you’re reinstalling all of your bolts, that you put a little bit of silicone on each of the threads. Reinstall them.
Whatever excess silicone that comes out when you run the bolts down to touch the case, just wipe it off.
[26:52] Now we’ll reinstall all of the components that attach to the shift drum. The first piece we’ll grab will be this small gear with the one dot right there. All of these are master keyed, so we’ll find the spline with the larger diameter. Line it up and then we’ll drop it right in.
Take this gear and line up the two dots with one dot, so it’ll look like this. As long as you have the flat on the shift drum facing toward the Polaris, everything will line up properly.
However, you do want to double check and make sure your dots are lined up. We’ll take this piece, where the shifter will attach, and line it up with the splined portion.
Line this up on the large spline, just like we did. It should look just like this. You should have the piece where your shifter will attach, just like that, when it’s all assembled.
[28:24] The next thing we’ll do is grab our spring. Take the spring and loop it into the notch on this arm. When you’re doing this, be careful to push the spring down onto the case.
At this point, it should look just like this. Once we’ve done that, we’ll make sure this portion is clean. This will be what seals the case on the top, and this is all clean.
Now we’ll grab our silicone and put a small bead—even smaller than what we put around the actual case. Smear it around, just to make sure it coats. Like I said, you don’t want a big bead.
Just go through and smooth this out. You can use a glove or you can just use your finger. Either way, you don’t want a bunch to get down in here. If there’s any on the lip, just take your finger and wipe it off.
Make sure your hands are clean after every time you do this. That way you’re not smearing it back down in there.
[30:29] I’m going to make sure we don’t have any on this spring. We have a good, clean edge there. Our hands are wiped off, so we’ll line everything back up. It should go just like this—it’ll slip right into place.
You may have to wiggle it around just a little bit. Sometimes it likes to get stuck right here. Just push it all down. Make sure you’ve got a good bit of silicone smashing out of there. Like I said, you don’t want a ton.
We’ll take our hardware that secures this cap on. Take a little bit of silicone—again, nothing too crazy. Put a little dot right there. Make sure the holes are lined up and then start all of the hardware before you tighten it.
[31:34] After they’re all siliconed down, we’ll let them sit for a minute, just like we did on the case. Then we’ll torque them to factory spec.
Now we’re going to install our shift lever. Make sure to line up the big spline on the lever with the big spline right here. Make sure it’s oriented properly. A lot of times you can tell, because you had to pry on it to get it off.
There—you’ll see where you marred it up a little bit. We’ll slide it down as far as we can get it. A lot of times, I like to take a socket that’s a little bit bigger and give it a couple taps. That way we know it’s all the way down.
Take our nut and thread it back on. Tighten that, then we’ll take our sensor. It only goes on one way—there’s no wrong way. So we’ll put it on just like this, then put on the wave spring and the clip.
[32:43] Now it’s time to reinstall our transmission. Grab it and slide it down into place, just as we removed it. Make sure all your wiring and everything is out of the way. Then you’ll slide it to where it’s going to be. Obviously, we’ll have to move it around.
Right there is about how you want to start it. Put it in and push it toward the passenger side of the machine.
Then we’re going to grab our mount and remove all the hardware from it. Take the nuts off each of these studs. Go ahead and attach this to the rear portion of the frame, where it was removed from. Start all of the nuts.
[35:04] Next we’re going to grab one piece of our mount and slide the bolts through the transmission. Line these holes up with the two holes on teh transmission.
Slide our plate in and once the plate’s in, we’ll pop our bolts through. We have a little bit of silicone in our holes. The bolts will push through it. Sometimes you have to thread them around a little bit and pull them out. Push them through to the opposite side.
Put these bolts through. Alright, these two bolts are through.
[36:11] Now we’ll go over to the opposite side. Take our threaded plate and line it up. Start the bolts that we previously pushed into the transmission.
A lot of times, you can put the threaded plate on the threads of your bolt. Reach around to the opposite side or have somebody help you. Start your bolts into the threaded plate here.
Like I said, we’re just going to start them. You don’t want to tighten anything just yet, until we get the transmission completely mounted up.
These two bolts are started. You’ll notice that your transmission is quite a bit lower than the mount. What you can do is take a pry bar on the back side of this transmission.
[37:10] The bolt we want to get in first will be the larger M10 bolt that goes through the actual mount. It’s the one we just attached to the frame.
Take the pry bar and pick up the transmission. As you’re picking up, you may have to wiggle it back. Just do whatever you have to do to line it up. That bolt will go in. You may have to come over to the opposite side and pick up over here as well.
As you’re picking up, push that bolt through, or have somebody help you. In this instance, we have our camera guy, Kemper, helping us out. We’ll start our nut.
Once that one is attached, we’ll grab this bolt with the washer on it. Start it through the bushing and through the bracket.
Same thing—put your pry bar in there and pick up on the transmission.
[39:05] Next we’re going to grab one of the long bolts that attaches the transmission to the motor. Normally it would be facing this side, so coming from the driver’s side to the passenger side, we’re going to flip it around.
Push it through the passenger side to the driver’s side to help us hold the transmission to the motor. That way it makes it easier to get our prop shaft on our clutch cover.
We’ll put a pry bar underneath the transmission here. Just wiggle it around until it lines up with this mount.
Now we’ll grab our prop shaft hardware. Reinstall the prop shaft to the transmission.
[40:09] Now that our motor and transmission are coupled together with the one bolt holding everything in place, we’ll take the inner clutch cover and slide it back into position.
When you put this on, make sure you’re not pinching any wires. Make sure there are no wires back behind the inner clutch cover.
As you can see, we’re still a little bit off alignment here. In this case, what you’ll have to do is wrestle the transmission back a little bit. I’m going to pry up on the transmission and just wiggle it around until we can see the holes.
Alright, I can see daylight through a couple of these holes, the ones that will take the smaller of the two bolts on the secondary side of the clutch cover. I’m going to slide them all the way through. We have two bolts going through there.
[42:07] Now we’ll take our other long bolt. Feed it through. It may not go all the way through, but as long as it goes through the transmission, you’re good. We’ll have to line it up on the opposite side.
Then we’ll come over here to our motor and see what we have to do to line up these holes. I have a hole lined up here for the torque-headed bolt. We’re going to wiggle the pry bar until it’s lined up.
We don’t want to force anything. Again, make sure there are no wires caught in between the clutch cover and the engine or transmission.
If something’s going together real hard or the bolts aren’t wanting to thread in easy, you need to stop. The one thing about the Turbos is, if you cross thread a bolt, it goes directly into the motor. So it’ll be a pretty big ordeal and that’s not something you want to deal with, especially this close to being done.
[43:18] Continue to line up all the holes and install all the bolts, but don’t fully tighten anything just yet.
At this point we have all the hardware on the primary side of the inner clutch cover tightened. All six bolts over here are tight, and none of these bolts on the other side are tight. They’re all started.
We have all the nuts started on the back side now. You want to tighten the two larger bolts, so this one as well as this one.
With the lower one, it’s the easiest to get to. This one is kind of tricky to get to, so I like to put my wrench on this side. Grab the socket for the opposite side and run this up until it’s tight. You can see where the bolt was laying from the factory. Run it up to that point. We’ll try to get it as close as possible to where it was before we took it apart.
[44:33] We’re going to make sure our alignment is correct. Line it up and then tighten it. Then we’ll tighten this bolt right here as well.
You’ll have to pull your hoses up out of the way and to the side. Get your socket on there, then come over here with your wrench. Hold it in place and tighten it.
Then we’ll come back here to the motor mount, where our three screws are. Our three studs are sticking through the machine. We’re going to tighten all of these.
[45:44] Once these three studs are tight, go through and fully tighten all of the hardware and reinstall your wiring.
Now you’ll want to double check your hardware and make sure everything is fully tightened. Make sure nothing is making any contact anywhere that it shouldn’t. Then make sure your fill plug is tightened.
Fill the transmission up. Reinstall your clutches, put your belt on, and reinstall your suspension.
[46:09] And that’s how easy it is to install SuperATV’s High Gear on a Polaris RZR Turbo. For more information on this high gear or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
