Date: Dec 19, 2024
Time: 32:43
[00:00] Introduction:
Are you looking to upgrade your Polaris RZR XP with more width and suspension travel? SuperATV has the solution with our 4-Inch Long Travel Kit. This installation guide, hosted by Braden Adams in his garage for “Grease the Wheels,” walks you step by step through installing the kit to improve performance, handling, and ride quality.
[00:55] Front Suspension Disassembly:
Begin by safely lifting your RZR XP using a jack or lift and removing the front wheels and tires. With clear access to the suspension components, remove the cotter pin and castle nut using a 30 mm socket. Then, use an 18 mm socket to remove the tie rod end hardware. If the tie rod doesn’t come out easily, tap the knuckle gently with a hammer to release it.
Next, rotate the knuckle and remove the 15 mm bolts securing the brake caliper. Detach the brake line from the A-arm. Brake line routing may vary if you’re using factory A-arms versus SuperATV’s. Remove the caliper and hub. Then, use a 15 mm socket to remove the upper and lower ball joint pinch bolts. Once tension is relieved from the A-arm, the ball joint will slide out. Reinsert the bolts for safekeeping.
Continue by removing the shock bolt using a 15 mm socket and extension. Remove both the top and bottom sway bar link hardware. At this point, the upper and lower A-arms can be unbolted and removed. Take care to store all hardware in their respective positions to ensure a smooth reassembly.
[04:35] Axle and Tie Rod Removal:
To remove the front axle, push it inward to disengage it from the differential, then pull it straight out. To remove the inner tie rod, slide back the boot and use a pipe wrench to unscrew the ball and socket. If you encounter resistance, apply heat to the threads to loosen any thread locker. Repeat the above steps on the opposite side of the vehicle.
[05:31] Rear Suspension Disassembly:
At the rear of the machine, start by removing the wheels and tires. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut just like in the front. Use an 18 mm socket and wrench to remove the upper and lower radius arms. With the knuckle freed, detach the brake caliper by removing its 15 mm mounting bolts. Carefully set the caliper aside. Remove the hub and brake line cover held in place with 10 mm hardware.
Continue by removing the upper shock bolt and detach the sway bar link. Unscrew and remove the brake line brackets using a T20 Torx. Extract the axle by plunging and pulling it out. Then, remove the radius arms and trailing arm. To do this, you may need to remove self-tappers from your skid plate to access trailing arm bolts, especially if you’re using a SuperATV skid plate.
[09:51] Shock Spring Replacement:
Head to a spring compressor to replace the OEM springs with those included in your kit. Long springs go on the rear shocks, and short springs go on the front. Compress the spring, remove the retainer, swap in the new springs, and reassemble the shocks. Safety is critical here—always use proper tools and safety equipment when working with compressed springs.
[11:28] Rear Brake Line Replacement:
With the skid plate and trailing arms removed, locate the rear brake line panel secured with T40 Torx bolts. Remove the panel and follow the routing of the factory brake line, carefully detaching it from the clips. Route the new brake line through the same path to prevent contact with the prop shaft.
Next, disconnect the rear brake lines from the distribution block. Minimize brake fluid loss by working quickly. Once the new line is connected, remove and discard the old one. Repeat this process for both driver and passenger sides. Make sure to hang any removed lines vertically to prevent fluid leaks.
[16:30] Front Brake Line Replacement:
Move to the master cylinder where the front brake lines connect. Disconnect the sensor plug, remove the 19 mm fitting, and detach the brake lines. Install the new lines: BLO16 for the driver side and BLO15 for the passenger. Connect the new lines with fresh banjo bolts and crush washers. Reconnect the sensor and tighten all fittings securely.
[18:58] Inner Tie Rod and Boot Installation:
Apply blue Loctite to the threads of the inner ball and socket. Hand-tighten into the rack, then use a pipe wrench to fully secure it. Slide the boot onto the rack and secure it using zip ties from the kit. Repeat for the other side.
[20:08] Front A-Arm, Axle, and Knuckle Installation:
Install the lower and upper A-arms using factory hardware. Thread the tie rod end onto the inner socket evenly. Select the correct axle (look for the part number ending in “F” for front), and insert it into the differential. Let the axle rest on the tie rod to prevent boot damage.
Install the knuckle onto the lower and upper ball joints using the factory pinch bolts. Guide the axle through the hub. Reinstall the shock using the factory shock bolt and mount the sway bar link with included M10x60 hardware.
[24:23] Tie Rod End and Brake Reassembly:
Install the tapered tie rod stud into the knuckle, followed by the misalignment bushing and nuts. Tighten all components. Install the front hub and secure it with the provided castle nut and washer. Replace the caliper and connect the new brake line using a banjo bolt and crush washers. Route and clip the brake line along the A-arm.
[27:07] Rear Suspension Reassembly:
Reinstall the trailing arm using factory hardware, followed by the rear shock. Mount the knuckle to the trailing arm and insert the axle. Install the hub and brake caliper using the same method as the front.
Install both radius arms—longer arm on bottom, shorter on top. Use the appropriate bushings: long bushings go toward the frame, short bushings go to the knuckle. Route and clip the brake line down the trailing arm using a 3 mm Allen tool.
[30:11] Sway Bar Link Installation (Rear):
Install the sway bar link on the trailing arm using the M10x65 hardware included in the kit. For the upper connection, reuse the factory hardware. Tighten both connections fully. Repeat all installation steps on the opposite side of the vehicle.
[31:05] Final Adjustments and Setup:
Ensure all hardware is fully tightened and torque to spec. Begin bleeding the brakes, starting from the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. Use gravity bleeding or traditional two-person bleeding methods.
Once brakes are functional, lower the machine to the ground. Check and adjust camber using the pivot blocks on the A-arms and the adjustability of the radius arms. Set toe by adjusting the tie rods. Aim for 0° to -2° camber and up to 1/8″ toe out for ideal handling.
[32:21] Conclusion:
Your SuperATV 4-Inch Long Travel Kit is now installed on your Polaris RZR XP. This upgrade enhances stability, performance, and ride comfort on rough terrain. Be sure to check the description below to pick up your kit, and don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe to stay updated with more SuperATV how-to videos and off-road tips.
