Length: 23:34
Created: June 13, 2023
What’s up guys? Braden here with SuperATV and today we’re going to show you how to install SuperATV’s MaxDrive Power Flip Windshield on this Polaris RZR Pro R 4. Let’s get right to it.
The first thing you’re going to do is come inside your machine and locate your center cubby hole. Lift up, open it up, and you’ll have this little tray. If you have a USB in yours, you want to pull the USB through this hole in the tray. Then set the tray aside.
What I like to do is find something you can lay underneath the door to keep it up. Otherwise, it’s going to be falling down the entire time and it becomes a little frustrating.
[1:11] Now that we have our center storage box removed, we’ll grab our wiring harness. We’re going to talk about this wiring harness real quick. On this harness, you’re going to see that you have a fuse. On the other side of the fuse is your red wire, or a hot wire, which is going to a keyed-on power source. Then you have your ground.
And right here is for your rocker switch plug. This is what’s going to feed through your rocker switch hole. Then you have two of these connectors—one’s going to go to the left, one’s going to the right. It doesn’t matter which orientation you put them in. They’re both the same length side-to-side and will work either way.
What I like to start out doing is feeding this wire right here, for our rocker switch, down to our rocker switch hole. We already have one of our knockouts out. If you don’t have a knockout out, all you have to do is reach down behind here as you’re feeding through and push it toward the inside of the cab. It’ll pop right out, nice and easy.
[2:09] We’re gonna get our harness all stretched out here, how it needs to be. Take this plug—the rocker switch plug—and start feeding it down. This can be kind of difficult to show you on camera without pulling the entire dash out of the machine. But you’ll see that you have a factory location here, where there’s a factory fuse holder. I like to go directly to the left of that, or directly toward the driver’s side, and we’ll find a little hole. That hole will lead all the way back toward your rocker switch knockouts.
Now we’re going to reach down and feed it right out of our rocker switch knockout here. Once it’s pulled through, grab your rocker switch that’s in the kit. These only go one way. You want to make sure this little clip on the harness lines up with the rocker switch itself.
When you go to put these together, they are kind of difficult. Make sure you line them up good and straight, then just give it a wiggle all the way until the connector snaps together good, just like that. Then, obviously, you want the windshield to open up and close down. We’ll feed this right into the knockout, just like that.
[3:50] As you can see, we have a ton of extra wiring. These wiring harnesses for the power flip windshields are universal. If you’re installing it to your machine, I would recommend that you go ahead and cut the wiring down. If you were to do that, all you do is cut it to the desired length and then use a butt connector to make sure you connect the in-line fuse back in on the hot side. Then connect this to your provided pulse plug adaptor.
That’s gonna be the next thing we’ll do—talk about this pulse plug adaptor. On this pulse plug you have three wires. You have a red wire, an all-time hot, which we will not be using today. You have an orange wire, which is a keyed-on power source and we’ll be using it as our hot. This hot will go to this orange (red to orange). The brown is the ground. That means brown and black go together.
[4:55] What we’re gonna do is strip this wire back. I’m gonna cut this red off. Not short enough to where we can never connect it, but just enough to get it out of the way because we won’t be using it at this time. Just cut that off. Then we’re going to take this orange wire and strip the coating back. Do the same thing on the brown.
Strip it back, then we’re going to grab the black wire and our wiring harness. We’ll cut off the eyelet connector that’s on it because on a Pro R or Turbo R or Pro XP, all of them that are equipped with a pulse bar, you cannot utilize the eyelet terminals. Put both of them off.
Once we clip them off and they’re just a bare wire, then we’re going to strip them back using our wire strippers.
You’re going to have a couple of different styles of connectors. You can use any of these that you like—it’s just personal preference. What I’m going to use today is a butt connector, a heat-shrink style connector. That’s just what I like to use. You can absolutely use any of the connectors provided in the pulse plug adapter kit.
We’re going to slide our orange on here. Grab some crimps and go ahead and crimp it down.
[6:31] Now we’ll go over here to the brown—again, this is ground—and slide it in our connector. Crimp it.
Then we’re going to take our black wire on our power flip windshield wiring harness and slide it into the connector. Connect it, grab the red wire, and slide it into the connector as well.
As you can see, this is the orientation we have it. We have orange going to red, brown going to black, and now we’re good to go. We’re wired up.
What we’ll do now is open our storage compartment back up. I’m going to put my tools back up here to keep this door up and out of the way for the time being.
[7:52] If you don’t have anything wired up on your machine, you’ll have a bunch of dummy plugs there. Just remove one of those dummy plugs—we already have one removed on our far right. That’s the one we’re going to plug our wiring harness into. Now we’re going to take our pulse plug and plug it into our pulse bar.
When you plug your connector in, you just want to make sure you hear the click and that it’s firmly seated into the pulse bar, which ours is. Now we’re going to come to these rubber boots that are on the side of the cage here. Lift them up. If your machine has Ride Command and factory speakers, you want to make sure you unplug them.
I know you can stretch the wire up there a little bit, but it’s better to be safe. You can get this all the way up and out of your way.
[8:48] Once we have it up, I like to take a little piece of wire. This is just mechanic’s wire. We’re going to start feeding this wire through, underneath the dash, toward the center of the machine. It came right though.
I like to take some electrical tape and wrap it also. This is another thing you could do—slide it in between the wires and then fold it down. Make sure you get a good hook on it as you’re pulling.
Then while I’m sitting inside the machine, I’m going to reach across the grab a hold of my wire. Just pick up on this plastic and pull it straight through. Once you have it all the way up here, just untape it. We’ll use this wire for the opposite side as well.
Once we have our wire fed to the inside, we’re going to jump right back inside the machine. Tape it up, then pull it out like we did previously. Just hook it like that.
[10:26] Now we’re going to grab our passenger-side brackets. They should look just like this, where these two notched slots here are facing away. Our brackets are lined up like this. That’ll be facing toward the inside of the machine.
What I like to do is take one of my small 5 mm screws and slide it through our bracket, just like so. Then we’re going to thread it onto our pinch plate. We don’t want to fully tighten it. All we’re going to do is make sure we get a couple of threads started on this—just enough to where we can feed it down into the frame.
Now I like to kind of put tension on it right away. It keeps the bracket where we need it in order to start our hardware. Once we have our hardware started, we’ll just leave it loose right here. We may come back and run it up a little bit so it touches, but there is quite a bit of adjustability here so we don’t want to fully tighten this yet.
Now repeat the same exact steps on the opposite side.
[11:40] Next we’re going to grab our clamps out of the kit and install them around the cage. We want to make sure the flat section of the clamp is facing toward the front of the machine and the bent section here is facing toward the inside. If you have a roof installed, you’ll want to loosen your hardware in this area.
We’ll do the same thing on the opposite side.
[12:09] Now that our machine is fully prepped and ready for our power flip windshield, we need to get our seals installed to the windshield so we can install it to the machine. In the kit, you’re going to notice that you have two different styles of seal. You’ll have the straight seal and the 90-degree bulb seal.
This 90-degree bulb seal will go in the upper portion of the windshield. We’re going to make sure the bulb portion is facing toward the cage of the machine, or toward the inside of the machine. The straight seal will go right along this lower portion here. It’s going to come in contact with the dash of the machine.
Once you’ve confirmed that your flip windshield fits your machine, you need to go ahead and remove the protective film from both sides.
Now we’re going to take our straight seal. Start right here, on the edge of the lower portion, and run it across the contours. Stop right here.
[13:25] Once you get to this point, you’re going to cut off the excess. Now we’ll grab our 90-degree bulb seal and apply it to the upper portion. We’re going to start on the lip of this edge, run it all the way around, and stop it here.
We’re working on the inside of the windshield here. We just flipped it around so the bottom’s down here and this would be the top. We want to make sure our seal is facing up. That way we have our windshield oriented. If yours is oriented the same way, you want to make sure the seal is facing upwards.
We’re going to keep running it all the way around until we get to this point here, then we’ll cut off our excess.
If you have a roof installed, you’ll want to get your roof picked up out of the way. As you can see, we have ours slid up and out of the way. What we’re going to do is line up the top holes on our windshield with the clamps we previously installed on the cage.
[14:44] When you’re mounting the power flip windshield to the upper clamps that we installed on the cage, you’re going to want to use the long M6 Allen-headed hardware and two Nylock nuts that are provided in the kit. Now we’re going to use our only remaining hardware, that has the sealing washer on it, to attach the upper portion of the windshield to the side bracket that we mounted to the cage previously.
We’re going to take our hardware and slide it down through our windshield. Now we’re going to grab a hold of our windshield here, as well as the bracket that’s installed to the side of the cage. All that should still be hand-tight and loose. We’re going to slide our hardware through and start our nut on the inside.
[15:53] Now we’re going to grab our actuators from our kit. We’re going to install our bushings. In the hardware kit, you’re going to see that you have a bunch of bushings that need to go on the upper and lower mounting points. We’re going to go through and install all eight of our bushings.
Where the windshield lays out is where it’s going to be. Like I said, there’s not much adjustability left once you have it clamped to the top. We’re going to fully tighten these two screws here, the two screws going into our pinch brackets on the sides, and the same exact hardware on the opposite side.
[16:59] Once the hardware is fully tightened, we’re going to grab our actuators and install them. We’re going to grab the remaining hardware in our kit, which is going to be our shoulder bolt. Our actuator will line up just like so. Slide your hardware through, then we’re going to grab one of the four remaining nuts in the kit. Start it on the threads of our actuator.
It looks like we are just a little ways off, so you can do this one of two ways. The way I prefer to do it is to stick the hardware through the actuator here. You can actually crack it loose to where you’re just unthreading it slightly, like that.
We’ll pull a couple of threads out. Then if we pull down on the flip windshield itself, it looks like we can get it to line up. Get our hardware through, and we’ll start our nut. Then we’re going to repeat the same steps for the opposite side.
[18:38] Once we have all of our hardware started, we’re going to undo the twist tie in our wiring harness connected to the actuator. Stretch it out as far as you can to where you can feed your connector down through. You have to pull on it pretty hard.
I like to always slide my connector around to the innermost side of the cage. We can kind of shimmy this around a little bit until we can make our connection here. This side is the one that’s connected to the actuator. We’ll just plug them in and then you can go ahead and plug back in your factory speaker if you have one.
[19:42] Roll this up a little bit—just enough to get your speaker plugs back in. Just tuck that down in there for a moment. We’re going to start feeding the wire back toward the inside like that, and pull our boot down.
Now we’re going to tighten our top clamps.
Next it’s time to test the power flip windshield out here. It opens nicely.
[21:08] Once our flip windshield’s up, we’re going to tuck as much slack as we can down back underneath the dash, like that. You don’t want it to be super tight. You just want it to be tight enough. Once we have enough slack, we’re going to take a zip tie. These are provided in the kit. Put a zip tie here and I like to do one at the bottom as well, so there are two on it.
Now we’re going to pull all our slack from side to side. I like to either cut it out, so you’re shortening the harness, which is perfectly acceptable as long as you keep the fuse in line. There are no issues with cutting down this harness and routing it however you want.
Just for demonstration purposes today, we’re not going to be doing that. All we’re doing is showing you how to loop it up. Like I said, I personally prefer to cut down the wiring harness to make them perfect for your machine. But today, we’re just going to loop them together and throw a zip tie on them.
You don’t want to crank the zip tie down. All you’re wanting to do is just put enough pressure on it. That way it holds these wires together and they don’t fall apart and lay all over places they don’t need to be laying on.
[22:47] Once our wires are tied up and out of the way how we like them, we’re going to take our center storage compartment. Slide the USB back through it and slide it right back down into the location it needs to be in. Double-check the flip windshield again.
Once you’ve gotten your wires all tied up and your hardware is fully tightened, that’s all there is to installing SuperATV’s MaxDrive Power Flip Windshield on this Polaris RZR Pro R 4. Be sure to check us out online to pick yours up today. Don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you on the next one.
2 Comments
Can you put a maxdrive power flip windshield on a Cfmoto 950? I will pay for a special order if you can do it.
Hi Manuel! Thanks for your question. We don’t currently offer a MaxDrive Power Flip Windshield for that model. We do offer non-powered flip windshields though! I will forward your question to the product development team to let them know there is interest.
https://www.superatv.com/cfmoto-zforce-950-scratch-resistant-flip-windshield