Created: October 7, 2020
What’s up guys? Today we’re going to be showing you how to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Carrier Bearing on this Polaris RZR Turbo. So Let’s get right to it.
[00:15] First, remove both of the seats. Then we’ll remove the center console. Remove these two t40 torx and these push pins. Now remove these two push pins and one more t40 torx on the front. With all the hardware removed, just pick up the console. Push the shifter boot down and slide it off the seat belts. Set it aside.
Now remove this panel and set it aside. If you look straight down next to your fuel line, you’ll see a little black 10 mm screw that attaches the shield to the frame. It’s tricky to get to, but you can use an extension with a 10 mm socket and remove it just like that.
Then grab a 15 mm socket and remove the two bolts securing the shield and carrier bearing to the frame of the machine. There will be one on each side. On this side, you’ll have to get a pry bar to pry the plastic back enough to get your socket down there.
[02:09] Next, we’ll remove all the hardware securing our cross bar to where the seats bolt down. There are a couple 15 mm bolts and some 13 mm bolts. There are also a couple t40 torx bolts like this one right here. Then there’s one here on the opposite side.
Then remove this 10 mm bolt out of your gas tank strap. Cut the zip tie attaching your wiring harness. We’ll put a new one on later. Remove the harness from right here as well.
Remove this 30 mm torx from the battery hold-down and disconnect it. Slide the battery hold down out. Go to the shift linkage and loosen it just enough to get it apart. Leave the shifter in neutral for this.
Once we’ve slid it out, use a pair of pliers to take this clip off the shifter. Take the washer off and slide the shift cable off. Take this linkage and feed it straight back out of the way for now.
Once we have the back portion of the gas tank strap unhooked, reach back here and disconnect the seat belt plug. Just lift straight up and you should be able to slide everything forward enough. We may have to come right here and disconnect the wiring harness.
Go through here and pop these clips apart. Just to give us a little bit extra, we’ll do these front ones as well. Now slide everything forward to get it out of the the way.
Now, pull the fuel pump cover off and disconnect both of the battery terminals here. Lay the terminals out of the way. Then remove the battery.
There are push pins all along the bottom securing the gas tank cover to the machine. We’ll just remove all these push pins. Then we can remove it and remove the fuel controller from the bracket if you have one installed on your machine. Then unplug it.
[06:32] Remove all the hardware securing the side panel and the front fender to the machine. One your hardware is removed, disconnect the side panel from the from the rear fender. Then remove the lower portion of the seat belt buckle. Flip the lower cover up out of the way.
For the next steps, make sure that your remove your front fenders, your side panel, and all the hardware that secures your side panel back here to the rear fascia. You don’t have to remove your rear fascia. When you take your gas cap off to remove your side panel, just give it a tug and it’ll pull right out.
Now we’ll start removing all the fuel lines and everything connected to the gas tank. Unplug the fuel pump right here. Slide the harness back out of the way. Then pop this clip out and push in on this clip to remove your fuel line. Tuck it out of the way and then pull your vent hose off. Now you can finagle the tank around and it’ll come right out.
[08:34] Now we can reach in here and grab this shield. You’ll have to play with it to get it past all your harnesses and everything. You’re going to have to pry some things out of the way and wiggle it around a bunch, then it should come right out. We bent ours a little getting it out. You just want to be careful not to tear up the hoses or wiring.
Now we’ll raise the machine up and start removing our prop shafts. Come over here to the passenger side and steer the wheel all the way to the left. Knock the roll pin out of the front prop shaft. We use an air chisel with a punch on it. It just makes it easier.
With the roll pin removed, we’ll move on to the rear prop shaft. Remove the four bolts that secure the prop shaft to the transmission. I like to get my allen wrench started in then I take my tire and smack it back. It’ll bust all these loose and it’s super easy. Now just use an impact to remove them.
With the prop shaft unbolted from the flange, we’ll remove the two 13 mm nuts off the studs. Once we have the nuts removed, take a pry bar and pry up on the motor mount until it sits up on the studs like this.
Now grab the prop. Wiggle it and rotate it up. Once you have the two props split, slide the rear one out just enough so you can get the front prop shaft out.
Now hop back into the machine. You need to get the passenger side lip or ear of the carrier straight up. Then you can rotate the prop and it’ll slide right out the back. Now flip the bracket and panels down out of the way so you can snatch the prop shaft out of here like that.
[12:06] Now we’ll head over here to the bench to remove the factory carrier. Remove the pillow block from the carrier bearing. I like to take a flathead screwdriver and work it down in here until you can get it removed. Now we’ll remove the factory bearing. If your prop shaft is equipped with a snap ring from the factory, remove that first. Then you can knock it off or use a bearing puller. A bearing puller is best, but most of you won’t have one. So just spin the prop shaft as you hit the bearing with a hammer.
With the bearing removed, we’ll make sure that it’s good and clean. In our carrier bearing kit, we’re going to see some green retaining compound that we’ll apply to the bearing surface all the way around. The more the better.
Now take the top cap of the carrier off. Keep in mind that this prop is going to sit like this in the machine, so make sure that the carrier has the SuperATV facing towards the rear. So that means the grease ring is going to sit just like this so that the grease ring is facing towards the front of the machine. So set yours up just like this.
We’re going to take our half inch tubing tool and put it here. We’ll place the prop on the ground and then knock the bearing in. We got the bearing knocked all the way down. The factory prop shaft has a snap ring that we won’t be able to get reinstalled. Grab the bearing retainer. It has a chamfer on one side. The chamfer should sit up against the bearing.
Get it lined up then apply the blue thread locker to these threads. Slide it up as far as it can go then get the hardware started on both sides. Then fully tighten them. Once the bearing retainer is on and fully tightened, let it sit for 24 hours to allow the green retaining compound to cure, then we’ll start installing the prop shafts.
Take the carrier and slide it down into position. Line it up with the factory threaded holes. Take the hardware and apply a little bit of blue thread locker to it. We just want to get this hardware started. Don’t fully tighten it yet.
[15:26] With the hardware started, grab the front prop shaft and start sliding it in and attaching it to the pinion shaft. Now we have the front prop shaft slid onto the pinion shaft on the front diff, and we made sure that the roll pin hole was lined up. Now grab the rear prop and get slid back in so we can couple it with the front prop shaft. Work it from the rear then go up to the front to check and see where it is.
Next, apply some blue thread locker to the prop shaft bolts and reattach the prop to the flange on the transmission. Now we’ll get the roll pin lined and hammer it in. Make sure it’s flush just like it was when you removed it.
Next we’ll be installing the upper portion of the carrier, but before we do that, we’ll make sure that the grease ring on the bearing lines up with the bearing on the upper portion of the carrier, and make sure the SuperATV logo is facing towards the rear.
I like to leave all the screws hanging loose. We’ll apply a little bit of thread locker to each of them. Then slide it into position. Now make sure all of the hardware gets started. Then we’ll torque the outside bolts that secure the lower portion to the frame to 45 foot-pounds. Then each of the four allen headed screws are torqued to 20 foot pounds.
After that, put five pumps of grease into the top of the carrier. Now go through and make sure that you reinstall any components that you’ve removed, get your interior all buttoned back up, and make sure you get your motor mount secured back to the frame.
And that’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Carrier Bearing on this Polaris RZR Turbo. For more information on our carrier bearing or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
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