Length: 19:24
Created: June 3, 2020
[0:00] Do you have a worn out or sloppy rack and pinion? Maybe it’s time to upgrade to SuperATV’s Heavy Duty RackBoss Rack and Pinion, with a 65% larger rack and a 15% larger rack gear. Today we’re going to show you how to get one installed on a RZR Turbo.
First thing we’re gonna do is remove our front wheels and tires. Then we’ll disconnect our shock from our A-arm. Once we’ve done that, we’ll pick up on our A-arm. Let our A-arm drop out and remove our shock.
Then we’re gonna undo our sway bar linkage. We’ll screw our nut back on the hardware there. Now disconnect the sway bar on the opposite side as well.
The next thing we’ll do is disconnect our brake caliper. Take the caliper and remove it. We’ll flip it up here, onto the A-arm, and just let it hang like that. Then we’re going to come in here and disconnect our upper A-arm.
[2:04] Once we’ve done that we’ll grab a ratchet strap and go up here, around our cage. Go anywhere you can get a strap tied in. You can get this A-arm out and pick it up. I’m gonna make sure we get our A-arm tied up as high as we can get it. Get the caliper somewhere where it’s gonna sit.
Then we’ll disconnect our tie rod end. Just make sure you remove your cotter pin if you are running a SuperATV-style tie rod end.
Remove our nut and pick our tire rod up. We’ve already loosened our inner jam nut. Go ahead and do that and then spin your tie rod off. Set your tie rod aside and we’ll repeat the same step for the opposite side.
[3:54] The next thing we’re gonna do is start loosening all of our rack bolts. So we’ll go underneath here. Here’s our first rack bolt we’re gonna be dealing with. You want to take a wrench and put it on the nut side.
Next we’re going to remove our pinch bolt. We’ve gone ahead and left one of the nuts on our studs for the rack and pinion, just to hold everything in place. So we’ll go in here and I usually like to use a long extension. We’re gonna remove this bolt.
Our bolt came right out. We went ahead and sprayed everything down before we tried to remove anything. That’s a good tip—to spray everything down. It helps everything go apart a little easier.
There’s our pinch bolt. Set it aside and then we’ll remove our last nut on the stud for our rack.
[4:48] At this point, if you’re running a factory diff and a factory prop shaft, you’ll be able to remove your rack and pinion. If you’re running a SuperATV diff and SuperATV prop, you’ll have to disconnect the prop shaft from the differential and then move the differential around until you can get the rack out.
Now we’re going to knock our pin out of our prop.
Once you’ve done that, we’ll remove our axles from both sides. Remove our cotter pin and our castle nut. Once you remove the castle nut, we’ll remove our hub and then our axle. Pull it up here and push it in.
[5:51] So now that you’ve removed your axle, you’re gonna remove your diff bolts. We had to disconnect our skid plate in the front and pull it down enough to get to our four differential bolts. The next thing you’ll do is remove your four diff bolts.
Once you have your diff bolts removed, grab your diff and start working it back. You should get it rotated off of the prop shaft.
Once you have your diff slid forward, you should be able to wiggle your rack down off of your steering shaft. You’ll have to work the rack out and rotate it a little bit.
Once you’ve rotated and removed your rack, we’ll grab our new rack and show you how to get it centered.
[7:04] Now we have our new rack and pinion here on the table. Remove the jam nuts off the inner ball and socket. We’ll pull our boots off and lay them out, side to side, that way we’ll remember.
What we’re doing here is making sure our rack is centered. The easiest way to do that is to take a pair of vice grips and lock them onto the splines. Make sure you leave your thread protector on. We’re going to thread it all the way out one way, as far as the rack will go.
So right there. The rack is maxed out all the way this way. So what we’re gonna do now is take a measurement from the face of the rack, right here, to the edge of the inner ball and socket.
It looks like we’re at 98 mm to right here. So we’ll screw it all the way to the opposite side. Make sure our thread protector is on there. We’ve maxed it out this way as well.
On this side, we’re gonna take a measuring scale and slide it up into the rack. There, now we’re all the way maxed out.
Now we’ll take 98 divided by two and make sure that our distance is exactly the same on both sides, so 49 is what we need to see out of both sides. We’re gonna get it to where we think is 49. There’s 40—we’ll take it out just a little bit more. There’s 45.
And that’s about as close as you could ever get to 49. So we’re gonna check this side here and it’s about as close as you can get to 49 as well. So our rack is centered.
[9:32] Before we make a paint mark, we’ll double check and re-measure. It’s always best to measure twice instead of having to go back and re-center the rack. So right there, that’s 49. No other way around it.
We’ll go down in here and make sure we’ve got this all the way in, where it needs to be. So our rack’s good and centered. What I like to do is take a paint marker, something kind of vibrant and bright. Just make a mark all the way up the steering shaft.
[10:20] Once we have it marked, we’ll take our boots and slide them back on. Get our boot right here, to this point. I’m going to take a nut and thread mine all the way up, as far as it’ll go. Same thing here. Get your nut threaded all the way on.
Then we’ll take our zip ties and install them on the inside of the boot, as well as the outside. Then cut off the excess of your zip ties.
Now we’re ready to get our rack installed into our machine. We’ll have three long bolts and two short bolts. We’ll grab two long bolts and two Nyloc nuts. Get them handy, and we’ll grab our rack.
Make sure our steering wheel is straight. Then we’ll get a rack slid back onto our steering shaft.
Now I’ll get my bolt slid through. Now I can get our nut started Then we’ll continue to go through and start our bolts.
[12:11] Next you’re gonna reinstall your differential bolts and roll pin if you had to remove them. If not, fully tighten your hardware for your rack and pinion.
Now that we have our hardware tightened for our rack and pinion, we’re going to take our pinch bolt and reinstall it.
Next we’re going to install our tie rods. Your tie rods will look a little bit different than ours, but this machine here is equipped with a SuperATV long travel kit, so it takes a special tie rod. But we’ll find the right-hand thread side. Thread it onto our tie rod. Thread it up there a pretty good ways and get it like that.
So we’re gonna grab our jam nut. We’ll just thread it all the way the heim joint here.
Then this will be left-handed thread right here. Thread it in somewhere like there. Obviously we’ll have to set our toe and make some adjustments.
So we’ll repeat these steps for the opposite side. Then we’ll reinstall our axle, our upper A-arm to our knuckle, our shock, and our brake caliper.
[13:39] So now that all these components are installed, we’re gonna get in our hardware kit. Grab a tapered stud, two Nyloc nuts, a misalignment bushing, and two cotter pins.
Take your tapered stud. The tapered side is going to go down through the steering arm and the knuckle, just like that.
On the bottom side we’ll go ahead and thread our nut on. On the top side, we’ll put our misalignment bushing and our other nut. We’re going to tighten them to each other.
So we’ll go ahead and get a 19 here on top and a 19 on bottom. We’ve got our bottom nut nice and tight. We’ll take our top nut off and slide our tie rod on.
We’ll try to keep our rotor as straight as possible. Sometimes you have to adjust your bushing inside your bushing inside your heim. Move it around a little bit. Now it’s fully seated.
We’ll take our misalignment bushing and our nut. Get our nut started. Go ahead and fully tighten our nut here.
We’ll take a cotter pin up here on top, if you can get it through. Sometimes you can, sometimes you can’t, but on the bottom you’ll be able to get your cotter pin through. Just slide your cotter pin in there. Get it away from itself. Just go back and double check your top nut up here with a ratchet.
We’ll look at our steering wheel. It stayed straight. So we’ll get this routed to where it’s pretty straight. Obviously we’re going to have to set our toe, but we’ll just get it to where it’s pretty straight.
And then we’ll repeat these steps for the opposite side.
[16:38] Now we’ve reinstalled our wheels and tires. We’ve got our machine sat back down on the ground. It’s time to set the toe. We have Chris here helping us today.
The first thing we’ll do is roll our machine out. We’re gonna compress our suspension and then we’ll take some measurements.
Once we’ve done that a couple times, we’ll push down on the suspension in the front and rear. Just make sure it’s settled. Looks like it is. So we’ll make sure that our wheel is straight.
Now we’ll take a measurement from the center line of the tire—on the front of the tire as well as on the back side of the tire.
It looks like right there we’re at 64 and a half to our center line on the front. And it looks like we’re right at 64 on the back side. So we’re a little bit toed-out.
The awesome thing about SuperATV’s double adjustable tie rods is that all you have to do is make sure both of your jam nuts are loose. If you grab hold of your tie rod and spin it back, it’s gonna toe your tires out. If you grab it and spin it forward, it’s gonna toe them in.
So depending on what your measurement was, you’ll have to adjust the tire out accordingly.
[18:38] After you make your adjustments, roll it out a little bit. Double check it. And then set your jam nuts. All you have to do to set your jam nuts is get your wrench and run them all the way up on both ends. Put a wrench right here on your inner ball and socket. Then put a wrench here and tighten them down. Lock them down. Make sure they’re extra tight.
[18:59] And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Heavy Duty Rack and Pinion on this Polaris RZR Turbo. For more information on this rack and pinion or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
