Length: 10:14
Created: April 30, 2019
[0:00] The first step is to remove the front wheels and tires, and then we’re going to remove the caliper by removing this bolt, as well as this bolt. Then remove the caliper.
Remove the hardware from the tie rod ends on both sides, and then remove the tie rod ends. Remove the hardware securing the lower A-arm to the knuckle, then remove the lower A-arm.
Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut, then remove the castle nut. Remove the hardware securing the upper A-arm to the knuckle. Then remove the knuckle.
Remove the hardware securing the shock to the A-arm, then remove the shock and tie it up out of the way, as well as the A-arm.
[1:24] Remove the axle. Remove the tie rod completely from only the passenger side. Remove the four bolts holding the differential to the machine. Now disconnect the steering shaft by removing this bolt.
Remove the following bolts to remove the rack and pinion. Once you’ve removed all the hardware from your rack and pinion, you can go ahead and remove it from your machine. In order to get it out, you’re gonna have to twist it, turn it, move it around. It’s a pretty tight fit.
[2:03] For the next step you’re gonna need a measuring scale. We’re going to center the rack. Adjust the rack back and forth until your measurement from the housing here to the face of the inner ball and socket. It looks like we’re at 48.
And the on this side, we’re gonna take our scale and stick it up inside of the housing, still measuring to the face of the inner ball and socket. It looks like we’re at 48.
Our rack is centered, so we’re gonna take a paint marker and make sure we mark the actual housing to the spline shaft here, where your steering shaft is gonna go. We’re gonna make a good blue mark and then we’re going to run it right up through here. Make sure it’s very visible.
[2:48] The customer that we’re installing this rack and pinion for today decided he did not want the steering stops at this time. This is when you’d want to install them. All you do is take the steering stop and slide it over the shaft here, as well as on this side.
Now that we’re not going to be installing the steering stops, we’ll install our boots. The big side goes to the big side of the housing. Just slide it on. It should look just like that. Do the same thing on this opposite side over here.
Then take your zip ties and place one here, as well as here, on the opposite side.
[3:54] Now we’ll place a zip tie on the inner side of the boot here, toward the center of the housing.
[4:19] Now cut off all the excess zip ties. Take the provided nuts and install them to the inner ball and socket studs.
Now we’re ready to install the rack to the machine. When installing the rack and pinion, you want to make sure the side with the three holes is facing toward the driver’s side, and the bracket with the two bolt holes is facing toward the passenger side.
Start feeding the rack and pinion through. You’ll have to wiggle it around, move it around. You may have to push the inner ball and sockets downward on both sides. Once the rack is in position, attach the steering shaft to the new rack.
[5:09] Push your pinch bolt through. Then get your nut started onto the bolt. Then we’re going to attach the rack and pinion to the frame of the machine using the provided hardware. The three bolt holes on the driver’s side are going to use the long bolt, and the two on the passenger side are going to use the shorter of the two bolts.
We’ll slide the rack into place then start our nut. We’re gonna do this for all three of the holes in the driver’s side, then we’re gonna move on over to the passenger side.
[5:58] Once you have all of your bolts started, go through and fully tighten all five bolts securing the rack to the frame. Then make sure you tighten your steering shaft pinch bolt as well.
Reinstall everything except for the tie rods. Then we’ll install the heavy-duty tie rods included in the rack and pinion kit. Make sure the side that has this on it is going toward the outside of the machine, and the side that has nothing is going to thread on to the inner ball and socket.
[6:28] Thread it up there until you have just a couple threads showing. Grab your provided outer tie rod end. Make sure the nut is threaded all the way down. Go ahead and thread it into the tie rod here.
Again, just leave a couple threads. You’ll have to make adjustments.
[6:58] Then you’re going to grab your hardware. Depending on what year machine you’re working on is going to depend on which hardware. If you have a ’15+ 1000, you’re going to use the hardware right here. If you have a ’14 1000, you’re going to use the bolt hardware here.
We’re working on a ’14 today. Pop your bushings, one on top and one on bottom. Look at your rotor and get it as straight as you possibly can. We’re gonna have to come back and set the toe, but at this point you just want to get it as straight as you can.
We’ll go ahead and thread this in a little bit, until it lines up perfectly with the hole. Take your provided bolt. Get it lined up with the knuckle. Drop it through.
[7:56] Take your castle nut head and install it. You’ll want to go ahead and fully tighten this and then install your cotter pin.
Reinstall your wheels and tires, then set the machine back down on the ground.
Before making any adjustments, make sure your rack is still centered and your mark is still lined up.
[8:19] For the next step you’ll need somebody to help you because we’ll be setting the toe. We’re going to measure from the center seam of the tire on the passenger side, as well as the driver’s side. Whatever the measurement is, it looks like we’ve got 56 and a half, so we’ll do the exact same thing on the back side of the tire.
It looks like we’re at 56 and a half on the back side of the tire, so that means our toe is good to go. If you have to make any adjustments, the awesome thing about SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Tie Rods is they’re double adjustable. So all you have to do is grab a hold of the tie rod, spin it inward or outward, depending on what you need to do to get your toe set. And make sure your measurements are the same.
[8:59] Once we’ve got our measurements the same and the front of the tire in the rear, we’re gonna roll the machine back and forth to make sure the suspension settled.
Then make sure, after you’ve done this, that the wheel is still straight. Make sure your measurement is exactly the same as it was before we rolled the machines. Looks like we’re at 56 and a half in the front and 56 and a half in the rear of the tire, so we’re all good to go.
[9:44] The next step is to go ahead and tighten all your jam nuts up. Hey, thanks Corey.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Heavy-Duty Rack & Pinion on this Polaris RZR 1000. For more information on this rack and pinion or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
2 Comments
48 what? 48mm?
Hey Cade. Yes, we are referring to mm here. Thanks for checking in!