Length: 20:35
Created: April 15, 2020
[0:00] Let’s install this SuperATV Rev1 Clutch Kit on a Polaris RZR XP 1000! The first thing we’ll do is remove the rear driver’s side wheel and tire, which we’ve already done.
Now we’ll jump right in and disconnect the shock from the trailing arm. Once you’ve taken the nut off the bolt, pick up on the trailing arm and remove the bolt. You’ll want to remove it and then slide it out of the way.
Then we will disconnect the vent tube from the clutch cover by loosening the clamp. Pull the clamp out of the way, grab the tube, and just wiggle it off.
Now remove all the clutch cover bolts. Go ahead and remove the clutch.
[0:56] We’ll disconnect the primary clutch. I’m just gonna disconnect the bolts and grab our primary clutch removal tool—you can pick one up on SuperATV.com. Slide it in and thread it as far as it will go by hand.
After that, we’ll grab our 27 mm and tighten the clutch kit removal tool up so it comes loose. We’ll just slide it straight back and off the belt. Set this aside for the time being.
Then we’ll go over to the secondary clutch. Get a 15 mm and remove the bolt. Once the bolt is removed, remove the snap ring. Grab hold of the secondary and remove it.
[2:07] Be sure when you remove your belt that you set it aside the exact same way that it came off, because you’ll want to reinstall it the same way.
Now we’ll head over to the base. This primary clutch is a SuperATV clutch, but the same principles will apply to your factory clutch.
Now that we’re at the bench, we’re gonna grab our primary clutch and put it on the clutch compressor. You can pick one of these up from SuperATV.com. Just make sure the side that would be facing you when you open the clutch cover is facing toward the top.
We’ll take this piece, slide it down, and grab our nut. I’m going to thread it all the way down. Then we’ll tighten it just enough to leave some tension off these Allen-headed screws. Remove all of them.
[3:12] Now we’ll take some of the tension off. Go through and remove all six of the Allen-headed screws, then we’ll loosen the clutch compressor here.
Also, make sure on your factory clutch, as well as this one, there’s going to be a line. If you don’t have a line, mark one straight down. It doesn’t matter where it’s at—you just want to make sure your clutch kit goes back together exactly the same.
Once you’re at a point where it’s loose, remove the spring on the top portion of the clutch and set it aside. Go ahead and take it off.
[4:28] Now we’ll go through and remove the clutch kit arms. Again, this is a SuperATV clutch so it does already have our arms in it, but we have a Rev1 General Performance Clutch Kit today.
We’ll go ahead and change the arms out. Get all of our hardware and our arms and everything set out, as well as our Loctite.
The way I like to do it is remove one of the arms and all the hardware for it. Then take the old hardware, set it aside, and grab the new hardware provided in the hardware kit.
If you are doing this install on the SuperATV clutch, make sure that your bushings go onto the screw just like that. Then the other one will be on the opposite side.
[5:38] We’ll turn this around so you can see what we’ve got going on here. Here is our clutch arm, so we’ll pull it right out. Make sure your bushings stay in place. This one came out just like this, so we’ll go ahead and install it just like this, with the weights facing away.
Slide it into place and then we’ll reinstall our bolt and screw, making sure our bushings are just like that. Slide it straight through—you may have to pick up on the arm a little bit to make sure it’s lined up.
This is the perfect time to go through and blow it out with an air gun—just make sure you’re wearing safety glasses. Make sure you don’t use any lubricant or anything like that on your clutch, because that could be pretty harmful. It would make it not perform properly.
[6:25] So if you’re running a SuperATV clutch kit, this is exactly what it will look like. If you’re running your factory clutch, it’s gonna look like this without the new style bushings.
After that, tighten that screw, and there’s a trick to tightening these up. You want to be careful and don’t over-tighten them. Just go through and tighten them until they stop. Make sure that this arm and the clutch moves freely.
If you over-tighten this, it’s gonna crush these towers down. When that tower gets crushed, it makes it so the arm can’t move freely. See, our arm is moving good and functioning good. It should look just like this.
Then repeat the steps for the other two arms.
[7:35] Now we have all our clutch arms in and installed and they’re moving freely—all of ours are moving good and free. You’ll notice that you have two springs in your clutch kit. Every clutch kit will vary but we’re using the General Performance today, so we have both the secondary and primary spring.
The easiest way to tell is going to be on the packaging. It will say PCS, or primary clutch spring, and on the secondary it will say SCS, or secondary clutch spring.
We know that’s our primary clutch. This is the spring we need to be using. So we’ll take our clutch spring and set it down in place. Grab our clutch compressor and slide it down, just like that.
Take our lid and remember, we have our line—we want to line all of our lines up. This line right here will line up all the way down through here.
So we’ll get it somewhat in place, because it will move a little bit as you go down. Just make sure everything is fully lined up before you properly seat it.
[8:43] Now we’ll start our nuts and start compressing.
Once you get close, just make sure everything is lining up properly with the towers. It looks like everything’s gonna go down nicely. It looks like all of our holes are lined up now.
There is provided Threadlocker in the clutch kit but we already have our own Loctite, so we’ll just use it. But this is a super crucial part of the installation. Make sure all the screws that secure the lid down to the primary clutch have Loctite on them. It’s important that you don’t put too much, because that Loctite will run down into the clutch and that will cause some major issues for you.
[9:41] Now we’ll run all of our screws down by hand, just to make sure they’re starting straight. That’s the last thing you want to do is cross thread a bolt in your clutch. After we have them all started straight, we’ll fully tighten them to the factory torque spec.
Next, we’re moving over to the secondary clutch. We’ll flip it so the side facing the transmission is facing upwards. We’ll remove the four screws securing the helix to the secondary.
A lot of times, these will be stuck. If they are stuck, you absolutely need to heat these screws up. Otherwise, you’ll strip the heads out and it will be a lot of trouble.
Luckily, ours came right loose.
Remove all four screws.
Another thing is, if you’ve taken the helix out before or you’ve taken your clutch out before, usually about one to two uses is all you want out of these screws and then you’ll want to replace them. I highly recommend ordering them directly from Polaris.
[11:07] After we’ve taken our screws out, we’ll grab the helix and pull it straight up. Set that aside for now.
Then we’ll get our clutch compressor and slide the secondary down through it. As you can see here, there’s a pink line on the spider as well as the shaft here. You want to do this on yours—however it’s lined up right now is where you want to make a mark.
It doesn’t matter how as long as you mark it exactly how it is, because that’s gonna be super crucial when you put this back together.
[11:49] Next, we’ll set up our compressor tool. Run the nut all the way down, and then we’ll take the tension off the snap ring. We’ll tighten it down until we see it move and then it shouldn’t go anywhere.
We’ll take our snap ring pliers and remove this snap ring. Once you’ve removed the snap ring, decompress the spring. Remove the tool and the snap ring.
We’ll grab hold of the spider, pull it straight up, and set it down. We’ll grab the secondary spring and remove it, and then remove this piece off of the factory spring.
After that, you’ll get an air blower and blow out the secondary clutch of any debris or anything that may be in there. Then we’ll grab the new spring and reinstall it.
[13:25] Now we’ll grab our secondary spring and take it out of the bag. We’ll put it back on our factory retainer. Slide it back down, making sure it’s good and fully seated. Grab your spider and make sure your bearings are still good on your rollers here, and there’s not an excess amount of wear.
Next we’ll go over and inspect them. This machine’s got a lot of miles on it, but these are still looking good, so we’ll reinstall them.
Another thing is, where we told you to make that mark—you want to make sure you line it up with the mark you made on your spider. We’ll set it right down and make sure it’s as lined up as it possibly can be. You can adjust it a little bit once it gets down in there—it’s just kind of difficult to do. It’s better to have it all lined up.
One thing a lot of people forget to do when installing this clutch kit is take your snap ring and set it right back on top of there, just like that, and reinstall the compressor tool.
I like to get that spring compressed before I put the tool on it. Then always leave the side with your mark facing out away from the closed side, that way you can see it.
Now we’re going to compress it all the way down. As you can see, I have my left hand holding it in place and keeping it lined up with that mark. Our snap ring groove is fully visible and our mark is lined up.
[15:25] If it gets really hard and you can’t compress it down, you absolutely want to loosen it back up and adjust it—maybe turn it to the right, turn it to the left. You don’t want to force it because it’s not lining up with the spider.
Now we’ll put this snap ring back on.Fully seat it all the way around—it looks like we’re good to go. Now we’ll remove our compressor tool. Again, go through and check everything out to make sure it’s all lined up good, which it is.
Now we’ll take it off the compressor and set that aside for now.
Grab the new helix provided in the clutch kit and install it. You may have to rotate it around a little bit. We’ll apply a little bit of blue Loctite—it’s very important that you only use blue Loctite. You don’t want to use red or anything because then it’s not gonna come back apart.
So use a little blue Loctite on the screws. Again, don’t use an excessive amount of blue Loctite—just enough to coat the threads. Let’s go through and install all four of these, then tighten them with a ratchet just to run them down.
[17:09] We’ll take our impact and don’t even tighten them, just put them down to where they touch. We’ll get a quarter-inch ratchet here and fully tighten them.
Once we have it all tightened down, take a paint marker and put a little X directly across from this other X here. That way if you ever have to take it apart again, you can put it back the exact same way.
Now we’ll go through and double check everything. Inspect the sheets on the secondary clutch. Just take your finger and run it down through here. As long as it feels good and flat, with no grooves on the inner or outer sheath, you’re good to go.
[18:00] Finally, make sure you blow everything out to get it all nice and clean before you reinstall it on both the primary and secondary. Then we’re ready to install it back on the machine.
Now we’ll put the belt on the secondary. Make sure you put it on the exact same way it came off. We’ll slide the secondary clutch into place.
Once we have it all the way in place, we’ll take a little bit of Loctite and apply some to our secondary clutch bolt. Put an even coat there and start your bolt.
I like to run my bolt in by hand as far as it’ll go, then I’ll take my impact and a 15 mm and tighten it up. Then you’ll want to torque it to factory specs.
We’ll get our belt down in the groove on the sheet as far as we can, then grab our primary clutch and loop it into the belt, making sure it gets fully seated.
After that, we’ll take our primary clutch bolt and make sure it still has the dowel, as well as the washer.
[19:43] Now start it in there. Hand tighten it as far as you can get it, then we’ll take our 21 mm and fully tighten the primary clutch bolt, and then we’ll torque to spec.
Once everything is torqued down and fully tightened, reinstall your belt cover, your shock, and your tire.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rev1 Clutch Kit on the Polaris RZR 1000. For more information on this clutch kit or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
