Created: August 11, 2020
[0:00] What’s up, guys? Are you looking to fine-tune your machine for your riding style? Well today we’ll show you how to install SuperATV’s Rev1 Mud Clutch Kit on this Polaris RZR Turbo S.
You may be wondering why we’re installing a mud clutch kit on a machine with 34’s. That mud clutch kit gives you so much more low-end engagement and low-end torque for shooting up that hill. Turning a larger tire, even with the portals, you get all-around performance gains. You’ll gain horsepower. So let’s jump right in and show you exactly how to get it done.
[0:38] First we’ll disconnect our shock from our trailing arm. Then you can use the jack or whatever you see is best to get your shock bolt out.
We have our machine on the lift so I’m going to use the lift to take the pressure off our bolt here, and then remove it. We’ll just flip our shock up and then remove our shock guard cover. It’ll be a 10 mm bolt and a 10 mm nut. Now we’ll start removing our clutch cover bolts.
Since we’re going to be working on the primary and secondary, I’m going to leave the vent on and pull it off, and then pull it out as well. So we’ll go ahead and remove this whole assembly and set it aside.
[1:51] Since we’re going to remove the primary and secondary, we’ll go ahead and remove the bolt from the primary.
In order to remove the primary clutch from your machine you’ll need one of these. This is a primary clutch removal tool. You can pick one of these up from SuperATV.com. I highly recommend whenever you do a clutch upgrade to go ahead and order one.
We’ll just slide that right into the primary. I like to go ahead and thread it hand tight. We’ll grab a 27 mm socket. Let’s tighten this up until it pops off. As you can see there, it popped right off for us. We’ll go ahead and remove our tool. Just like that, it’ll slide off of the crankshaft.
We’ll just angle it and we can remove our belt right off of it.
[3:00] Now we’re ready to remove our secondary clutch. We’ll take a 15 mm, hold on to the clutch, and remove the bolt. We’ll remove this snap ring, remove our shims, and grab our outer sheath. Remove it and then the inner sheath.
Next we’ll get our clutch compressor tool. You can purchase this from SuperATV.com as well. We’re going to slide our primary clutch right down onto it. Then take this portion of the compressor and slide it on there. Thread the nut down.
Now we’ll take some of the pressure off and we’ll grab a 10 mm socket. We’ll remove all of our hardware before we do that. Let’s take a paint marker and mark right here and here, so we know when we put this back together that we need to line up these orange marks.
[4:12] We’ll put our hand between the sheaths and remove all of our 10 mm bolts. We’ll remove the bolts here and remove our compressor off of it. As you can see, it lets that spring up inside. Grab this as well, and our spring.
I like to set that on there. See how it has a little bit of a bevel? That’s going to ride on the spring.
After that we’re going to get our spider tool—you can pick one of these up from SuperATV.com as well. We’ll remove our primary clutch from the compressor. Take the spider tool and make sure it’s good and lined up all the way around. Take our impact and you’re going to want to grip it pretty hard here.
[5:17] Remove it. So once we have our spider nut off, we’re going to remove this sheath right here. We’ll remove this sheath as well.
Once we have our clutch torn down to this point, we’ll remove this and make sure there’s nothing here. Add that shim and install our spacer, just like this.
We’re going to get some Scotch Brite and then we’ll Scotch Brite the sheath down really well. As you can see, we have a little bit of a lip here. That’s due to the machine being ran in high gear at low speeds.
Take your Scotch Brite and really work it in there. Work that groove down as much as you can and evenly clean it. As you can see in here, we have a lot of belt dust, dirt, debris, and nastiness—and it’s the same here. We’ll clean this up really good.
[6:13] We’re going to start cleaning everything. We’ll take a 10 mm socket and get our Allen and we’ll go ahead and remove our clutch.
Let’s go through and get all the hardware removed first. Then we’ll get the initial dust out and do a little bit of that tapping around. That usually gets the majority of it out. Get some Scotch Brite, a little bit of Brakleen, and a rag. Be careful when you’re doing this so you don’t get anything in the bearing.
We’re going to grab hold of our bearing and pull it out at the same time. Since we’re already to this point, it only makes sense to do so.
We’ll set that over there. There will be a bottom shim here as well—go ahead and peel that off of there. Just know that you have to replace that prior to reinstalling the bearing. Take a little Brakleen and go around it one time, then take your Scotch Brite and really work it all the way around.
[7:20] As you can see, it’s already starting to clear up. We want to work it around evenly—don’t just sit it in one spot. Work it in circles as you’re doing it. All that’s going to do is make it so that belt has a better surface to grab hold of.
Now we’re going to take some Brakleen again and get this nice and cleaned up. Take a clean rag and wipe it down pretty good. We’re going to take our bottom shim that we removed and drop it down. Make sure it gets seated in the groove.
Then we’ll take our whole assembly out of the bearing, as well as your spacer. Just drop it right in. It should sit like this, with that shim in there, and your bearing will have some up and down movement. That’s perfectly acceptable—that’s actually what we’re looking for.
So this sheath’s done now. We have used this, so we’ll take all our sliders out. We’ll take this other sheath and flip it upside down as well. Get it nice and clean.
[8:23] We’ll go through and give it a nice little polishing with the rag. We don’t want to put Scotch Brite in there or anything like that. You’ll actually tear that bushing up a little bit, which is a common thing—these bushings do wear out.
We’ll go ahead and start polishing this sheath up as well, then we’ll do the exact same thing as far as cleaning goes and flip it over. We’ll clean this out with Brakleen and get all this nasty belt dust and everything out of there.
[8:50] Now we’ve got our clutch arms and our hardware out. Sometimes in the packaging there will be a little bit of grease on your hardware. Just take some Brakleen on a rag and wipe those down.
We’ll take our arm and lay it right down where we removed our OEM arms. Slide our hardware through and make sure everything flows freely. You want your hardware to spin freely—you don’t want it to be bound up at any point. If it is bound up, what you’ll need to do is take a piece of sandpaper and sand out the holes.
We’re going to start our nut here and then we’ll show you one of the most important parts of installing a clutch kit. Get all of our arms in position and all of our hardware started first.
So right here is a very important part of the installation, especially of these arms in the primary. You want to go through and start tightening these up. But when I say tighten these, you don’t want to over-tighten them. So I like to run it to right about here, where we still have some movement in our bolt just a little bit.
We don’t want a lot of movement, and our bolt still spins freely. That’s what that Nyloc is there for. This bolt is not going to back off, especially at that Nyloc, and we can see it’s in the Nyloc good. So we’ll do the same thing over here.
Like I said, you just want to run it in until it’s about to touch and then stop. You definitely don’t want to ever over-tighten this hardware. What that’ll do is crush this casting. Once you crush that casting, it’s going to lock that arm up and it won’t shift correctly. It’s not going to function properly. You’ll know it pretty much immediately.
[10:26] Right there, we have a little bit of side-to-side play—not a ton—and our hardware still moves freely. That’s about perfect and exactly what we’re looking for. You should be able to grab your arms and they should move freely. The hardware should move freely and not be stuck in the arm.
As you can see, the hardware stays still when we’re moving our clutch arms.
Now we’ll find this portion on our clutch and make sure it’s good and cleaned up. We’ll line it up with the orange mark. As you can see, our orange mark there is lined up.
[11:03] Next we’ll couple our sheaths back together. Make sure your splines are lined up good. See, we started on our splines good, but it’s not going down all the way. So what we’ll do is give it a couple taps. We’ll take our nut and use it to help us get it all the way down to where it needs to be.
For this next step, we’ll find a good way to hold it and we’ll use our socket. We’re going to torque it to the factory spec.
Now our primary clutch is done, so we’ll take our spring and our retainer and line our orange marks back up. We’ll grab our compressor. I like to start it straight and just run the nut down to hold it. You can pick up on your sheath a little bit here. Get all your hardware started and make sure you have them straight. You don’t want to cross thread anything.
Now we’ll go through and fully tighten them.
[12:38] Once your hardware is fully tightened we’ll remove this primary out of our compressor. So our primary clutch is all done. Now it can be re-installed onto the machine.
After that we’ll move on to the secondary. We’ll take our secondary and put it on our compressor, just like this. As you can see, this clutch already has a mark from the helix to the actual sheath. You’ll want to do this and make sure you have a good visible mark.
We’ll take our compressor and put it down here. The way you put this on is very crucial—you have three points where it needs to hit. You want to lay it on there, just like that. If it moves it’s going to try to decompress this at kind of an angle, and that can get dangerous.
[13:36] So we have it set up how we want it now. Now we’ll take our compressor and put some downward force on it, just like that. I know using an impact on this kind of stuff is sometimes a major no-no, but for this case, you’re not able to get a ratchet and crank these three screws loose.
So I like to take an impact with my T30 or T27, depending on what size your OEM hardware is. Put a lot of downward force on the bolt and then remove it.
Now our hardware is removed. We’ll relieve the tension and move our compressor, just like this. Then make one last mark here, and then here—that way you know if it’s all lined up and that everything will go back together nicely.
We’ll remove the helix, remove this piece as well, and then remove our spring. Once we’ve removed our spring, there are a few things inside of here that you want to look at. Look at these—a lot of times, they’ll get worn down from the engaging and disengaging of the clutch. They’ll want to ride here and sometimes they can scar it up and it’ll get nasty in there.
All this dirt and debris, that’s from the belt, obviously. We’ll go through and make sure this gets super clean.
[15:07] So we’ve got the majority of it off. You can see this has a little bit of wear on it. Now we’ll take our Scotch Brite, the same way we did on the primary clutch, and go through and scuff these shoes. We want to do the same thing for the inner and the outer sheath. I’ll just go through and blow it out.
Once we have everything cleaned up, we’ll take our new spring and slide it in. Take this piece right here and set it on top of the spring. Grab our helix and spring compressor, then we’ll compress our spring.
Once we have one of our holes lined up, we’ll put some blue Loctite on the hardware and start it. Sometimes you have to help it to get the other bolt lined up. Once it’s lined up, we’ll start it all the way. Tighten it until it’s hand tight and then compress your compressor all the way down. Then fully tighten all your hardware and remove your compressor.
After that, remove your secondary. Now it’s time to get both of our clutches installed to our machine. First we’ll install our inner sheath for our secondary and our router. Then we’ll grab our primary and install that as well. Slide it in there.
Then we’ll get our bolt for our primary clutch and install it. Install our shim on our secondary, and install our spacer. We’ll grab our snap ring and our bolt. Put just a little bit of blue Loctite on this bolt and then torque the hardware to factory specs.
[18:01] Now we have both of our clutches torqued to factory spec. Today we’re going to upgrade to a GBoost World’s Best Belt—you can pick one of these up from SuperATV.com as well.
Before we installed this, we washed it down in soapy water and then let it air dry. Now it’s ready for us to install it. We’ll just slide it right around the primary and then you should have a clutch tool for your belt and your factory tool kit.
Once you’ve opened your secondary sheath, you should be able to take your belt and loop it over the top of your secondary. Once it’s in there, remove your belt tool. Then grab hold of your secondary and spin it until your belt rides all the way up to the top.
[19:02] Now we’ll grab our clutch cover. We’ll put all our hardware in, all the way around. We’ll go through and fully tighten all of our hardware, then re-install our shock guard. Then we’ll put our shock back into our trailing arm and re-install the shock belt. Fully tighten our hardware for our shock.
And there you have it! That’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s Rev1 Clutch Kit on this Polaris RZR Turbo S. For more information on this clutch kit or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.