Length: 16:54
Created: September 22, 2010
What’s up guys? Today we’re going to be showing you how to install SuperATV’s C-Series Prop Shafts on this Polaris RZR XP Turbo.
[00:12] First, remove all four allen-headed bolts securing the prop shaft to the transmission in the rear. I like to take an allen wrench and then use my tire to leverage it and break it loose. Continue doing this to loosen all four, then remove them with a socket.
Now you can slide it off the flange. Then remove both of the 13 mm nuts from the motor mount. Use a pry bar to pry the motor up. Let the motor sit on the studs then grab the the rear prop shaft and start sliding it out. It should just slide out like this.
[01:13] Head to the front and remove the roll pin securing the front prop shaft to the differential. That’s this roll pin right here. I like to use an old socket, an old extension, and a punch. Lined it up and tap the roll pin out with a hammer.
Now head in and remove the rear seats. If you have a two-seater, just remove the front seats. Grab the latch on the back of the seat to remove them. Remove all the hardware securing the rear console to the machine. The go up here and remove all these push pins and pop the tabs out. Set them aside and don’t lose them.
Now push the seat belt boots through, and remove this portion of the console. If you have a rear 12-volt plug back here, just unplug it. Now take the rear console out and set it aside.
[03:26] Our machine is going to look a little bit different than yours because we already have a SuperATV carrier in this machine. You need to take a razor black and cut this section out of the plastic out. We just cut it so we can get to our factory hardware and get everything removed without removing the gas tank.
You need to remove the two 15 mm bolts out of the carrier which will be locate on either side. This will look a little bit different with our carrier. You’ll just need to remove the bolts going to the frame.
Now pull your coolant hoses on your driver’s side out of the the way in order to get a socket to the hardware. I usually use a pry bar and an extension. The trickiest part about it is getting the bolt out after you’ve removed it, that’s why we notched it out.
Once the carrier is loose, you’ll have to pull the pillow block of. This is what the factory prop is going to look like. It’s bolted in just like this. This is where the two 15 mm bolts would be. The best way to get this apart, especially if the bearing’s junk, is to shove a pry bar up in this lip and pull down. Just work it until it comes apart. Sometimes you can do it by hand. Make sure you get the rubber off of it.
[05:34] Once the rubber’s off, feed the prop shaft out the rear. Reach down through here and grab it. Sometimes it’ll get stuck on the diff. If it does, just pry it off the pinion shaft. We’re off the pinion shaft and we should be able to start feeding the prop shaft out towards the rear.
Once we get it going towards the back, we’ll remove this access panel by pulling it off. Then you can grab the prop and keep feeding it towards the rear. Then we can grab the prop in the back. Try to get it up and over the clutch cover as you’re working it. Then slide it right out.
[06:39] Now we have both of our props and the factory carrier removed. It’s time to get the rear portion of the rear prop shaft installed to the transmission. First, make sure your machine’s in park.
Now remove the shock bolt from the trailing arm. Pick up on the trailing and wiggle the bolt out, then let the arm drop. Remove the shock and move it to the side.
Grab a 30 mm socket or wrench and remove the nut from the transmission. Keep track of both of the washers and the lock washer. Pull the flange off. Head to the prop shaft and remove each of the 8 mm 12 point screws. With the hardware removed, take this portion of the CV off. You may have to give it a couple taps. Once you give it a couple taps, it should come right off.
Take this splined end with the holes on it and slide it into the transmission like this. Take the factory hardware the we removed and reinstall it the same way it came off. Slide the washers and nut on the use the 30 mm socket to tighten your nut.
[08:40] Next, grab the front prop shaft. This prop shaft is going to sit like this in the machine so the splines are going to be facing towards the rear. The carrier bearing has a groove in it that we call the grease ring. The grease ring is going to be facing towards the front and towards your front CV which is this CV right here. You know it’s the front because it has a hole in it for the roll pin. It’s very important that when you install this that your grease ring is properly oriented.
Ours is already set up and ready to go. You’re going to take the green retaining compound that’s in the kit and put it on the shaft before you install your bearing. Once it’s installed, install your snap ring and then you’ll be ready to install the front prop shaft.
Slide the prop shaft in. Let’s go right beside the clutch cover. Slide it in as far as we can get it then we’ll have to go to the inside and start feeding it towards the front as far as it’ll go. Then we’ll go up here to the front.
With the prop shaft all the way up here, slide it onto the pinion shaft on the front differential. Make sure we line the roll pin hole up. Slide is as far forward as you can, then grab the lower portion of the carrier. Make sure the machined edge lines up with this machined edge and the bottom of the SuperATV logo is facing towards the rear. The long ear is on the passenger’s side.
We’re going to set it up just like this, but we’re only going to be installing the lower portion right now. I like to slide this in here. You have to slide it underneath the bearing and get it lined up with the factory holes. So it should look just like this. Take the provided hardware and apply the provided blue threadlocker to it. Get the bolts slide down and get it lined up with the threads. Get them started on both sides.
Remember, whenever we pulled this apart we moved our coolant hoses to the side so we’ll have to do it again now to get this bolt started. With just the bottom portion of the carrier installed, we’ll lift the machine back up, and install the rear prop shaft.
[12:17] Grab the rear prop shaft and slide it in the same way we did the front prop. It’ll get a little bit tight as we work it through the frame. Then go inside and make sure both prop shafts are connecting together. You may have to pry the motor up a little bit more or take the clutch cover to get it in.
We have our prop shaft in and ready to mate up with the front shaft. It’s a pretty tight fit right now. You’re just going to have to use your hand to get them coupled together. We’ve got them to where they’re touching on the splines. Then you can shove the front shaft as far back as possible and the rear shaft as far forward as possible.
Next, reinstall the bolts to the CV in the rear. Then couple the prop shaft to the flange we installed to the transmission using the same hardware we removed earlier. Get all the hardware started. It’s easier if you kick the transmission into neutral and rotate the tire as you go. Once they’re all started, tighten them all.
Now reinstall the shock bolt and the motor mount. Just use the pry bar to get it back into position. Make sure the dowels are going into the frame. Then spin the tires to make sure everything is good and to help center the carrier. Looks like we’re not making any contact anywhere which is good.
Reinstall the 13 mm nuts to the studs on the motor mount. Then install the new roll pin.
Now line the grease ring on the bearing up to the grease ring on the carrier. You may have to pick up on the prop and rotate the lower portion of the carrier until you have it all completely lined up. Then get the four allen-headed screws that secure the carrier and apply blue thread locker to each.
Take the upper portion of the carrier and make sure the bottom of the SuperATV logo is towards the rear, and then slide it into position. Get all the hardware started and then tighten it all in an X pattern along with the hardware securing the lower portion to the frame.
Now we can torque the two 14 mm bolts on the lower portion to 45 foot-pounds. The four allen-headed screws should be torqued to 20 foot-pounds. Then pump four or five pumps of grease into the carrier bearing, or, if you’re going to run the remote grease line, you can check out our video on YouTube on SuperATV Media on our grease line installation.
Once we’ve done that. reinstall all the components. And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s C-Series Prop Shaft on this RZR Turbo four seater.
For more information on this or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
