Created: April 1, 2019
[0:00] Hey everybody, Braden here at SuperATV. Today we’re gonna be installing our Rhino Driveline and Billet Carrier Bearing on this Polaris RZR 1000. So let’s get started.
[0:12] The first thing we’re gonna do is remove both of the front seats from the machine. The next step is to remove the center console by removing the three screws and the four push pins. Once all the hardware is removed, remove the center console.
Remove the two bolts located here and here, holding the scatter shield and carrier bearing to the frame. Remove the 10mm bolts securing the shield to the frame. Once you have all the hardware removed from the shield, remove the shield.
Removing this shield through the center console hole is gonna require quite a bit of force. There are a few different ways of doing this. You can remove the gas tank and then it’ll just slide right out through the top here. Or you can push all the way back and cut it in half, and then pull it out.
To save time, we’re gonna remove it through the center console. You’re gonna pull this tab up over top of your wiring harness, and then pull the shield upwards. It’s gonna be in the plastic here, so you may have to take a pry bar and pry it out. As you’re prying it out, push it forward. Take a screwdriver and bend the mounting tab on the driver’s side upward.
[1:58] The next thing we’re gonna do is remove the front prop shaft from the differential. To make it easier to get in there, we’re gonna remove the passenger side front wheel and tire.
Next we’re gonna take a long punch and a hammer and knock out the roll pin. Once you knock your pin out of your prop shaft, secure it to the pinion shaft on the differential. Go ahead and slide it off the pinion shaft, then you’re gonna want to push it to the driver’s side.
Push the prop shaft forward as far as you can possibly get it. You may have to wiggle it, shake it, move the yoke around a little bit. Once you have it to that point, we’re gonna go back in the machine and separate the two prop shafts.
[2:38] We’re gonna do this by angling the front prop shaft as far over as we can. Grab a hold of the carrier bearing and then separate the two from each other. You can pull the front prop shaft right out through the center here.
Next we’re gonna remove the pillow block from the bearing carrier. What you wanna do is slide it to one side and pick it up. Take a flathead screwdriver and just work it around, all the way. Go ahead and remove the pillow block.
Then you’re gonna slide your prop shaft forward, angle it to the side a little bit, then move to the back of the machine. You’re gonna grab your prop shaft and slide it right out the back here.
[3:29] The next step is to get your carrier bearing out of the box, then go ahead and remove all four of the Allen-headed screws. Once you have all those loose, take the cap off. Remove the bearing and set it aside for just one moment. Then we’re gonna come to our prop shaft. This is gonna be our rear prop shaft. Go ahead and remove the snap ring.
Then we’re gonna get some brake cleaner and clean off this bearing surface. Make sure you get it good and dry, get all the oil off of it. You’re gonna do the same thing on the inside of our bearing.
[4:14] We’re gonna grab our provided green retaining compound. Come over here to our bearing surface and put a good amount of this retaining compound all the way around. Once you get a good amount on there, you want to take your finger and work it all the way around the whole surface. Make sure it’s got a good, even coat.
We’re installing this on an XP 1000 today, so we want to make sure that our grease ring on our bearing is facing toward the prop shaft, just like that. Make sure that you get it as straight as possible. Start knocking the bearing down onto the prop shaft.
We made a tool to install the bearing. Any piece of pipe the same diameter of the inner portion of the bearing will work.
Make sure that your bearing is fully seated and that your snap ring groove is fully visible. Then we’re gonna take our snap ring and re-install it to the prop shaft. This is what secures the bearing and makes sure it doesn’t slide around. You’re gonna go around with a screwdriver and make sure the snap ring is fully seated.
[5:26] One thing to keep in mind: the carrier bearing that’s gonna come in the kit with the prop shaft is gonna come with this locking collar. If you’re using a Rhino Brand Prop Shaft, you will not use this. You will use the snap ring only.
One thing that’s very important when installing SuperATV’s Rhino Series Prop Shafts is to make sure that the fixed ends are clocked 90 degrees from each other. When I say fixed ends, it’s gonna be here and here on the front, and then on the rear, it’s only gonna be here.
For example, if we have a rear prop shaft installed to our output shaft on our transmission, and the fixed end is like this—straight up and down—then our front prop shaft needs to be oriented like this. Since the rear is like this, we want it clocked at 90 degrees, so we have a flat fixed end here. Then it’ll just slide right on. This is how we’re going to install them into the machine.
[6:32] Now we’re gonna slide our prop shaft in the same hole that the factory one came out of. Make sure that the fixed end of the prop shaft is straight up and down. Then slide it on to the splines of the output shaft on the transmission.
Next, take the lower portion of your bearing carrier. Slide it into the machine, underneath the prop shaft. Move the prop shaft around, as well as the lower portion of the bearing carrier, until you get it lined up with the screw.
Once you get it lined up, take your front prop shaft, making sure to orient it 90 degrees from however you set your rear up. We set our rear straight up and down like this, so we’re gonna clock ours 90 degrees. Slide it in and slide it over to the driver’s side as far as it will go. Slide your rear back as far as it will go. Angle them both over to the side. Pick up on your front, slide it on to the splines.
We’ve got ours all lined up. Now we’re gonna slide our front prop shaft as far back as we can towards the rear. Now go up to the front of the machine and reinstall the front prop shaft to the pinion shaft on the differential.
[8:19] Once we have our prop shaft slid back as far as it’ll go, we’re gonna take our prop shaft and rotate it around until the hole in the prop shaft lines up with the hole on the pinion shaft. Rotate this prop shaft downward, to where you can get your new roll pin started.
Once you have the roll pin started, take a punch and a hammer and knock the roll pin all the way through until it’s flush on either side.
Looks like we’ve got it flush on both sides. Now we’ll head back into the machine.
[8:51] Now we’ll take our provided Loctite and the hardware for the bearing carrier. Put a good amount of Loctite, then start your bolt in the factory hole in the frame. Start this bolt here as well. Don’t tighten them up yet. You just want to get them run down.
[9:16] Now we’ll go to the back of the machine and make sure that we have a sufficient amount of gap between our rear prop shaft and our transmission case.
We’re gonna pull the prop shaft forward, where we just have a gap about that much in between the face of the yoke of the prop shaft to the transmission case.
Next we’re gonna take the top portion of the bearing carrier and apply some Loctite to all of the hardware. Make sure the SuperATV is facing forward and make sure that our grease ring and the top portion of the bearing carrier is lined up with our bearing. Lay it into place.
Go ahead and start all of the hardware. You don’t want to tighten anything at this time.
[10:10] Now grab the rear tires and make sure that everything spins freely. Nothing should be binding up or anything like that.
Now that we know everything is turning freely and lined up, we want to make sure that our bolts are straight across from each other and everything is symmetrical. For example, your bolts could be all the way forward in the carrier, or they could be all the way back, or they could be dead center. Those are the only settings you want to go by.
We just checked to make sure that we had enough room between our prop shaft yoke and our transmission case, and it looks like our bolts are laying out perfectly. We’ll go ahead and tighten everything down evenly, then we’ll torque it all.
[10:50] Now we’ll set our torque wrench to 45 ft./lbs. and torque down the bolts that secure the bearing carrier to the frame of the machine. Once we have our bolts tight, secure the top of the carrier to the lower portion of the carrier. Set our torque wrench to 20 ft./lbs. and then tighten them in an X pattern.
Take your grease gun and put four to five pumps of grease into your carrier bearing. Make sure it’s accepting the grease. It looks like we’re good, so we’ll put five in it. We’ve got five pumps in it and it looks like it’s accepting the grease.
Then you’ll also grease your grease zerk on the back. You may have to roll your tire around a little bit. Grease all the zerks on the prop shafts. Slide it on there, then one pump is good.
[11:49] The shield that was previously removed will not be reinstalled, so you can just discard it. Then you’ll reinstall all the components that you removed: your console, your seats, your tire. Then you’re ready to ride.
That’s how easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino Prop Shaft and Billet Carrier. For more information on the Rhino Prop Shafts or Billet Carrier, or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching, and have a great day.
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