Length: 12:52
Created: September 17, 2020
What’s up guys? Do you have a worn out or broken prop shaft, or is it just time to upgrade? Well, SuperATV has go you covered with our Rhino Driveline Prop Shafts, and today we’re going to show you how to get one installed on this Polaris RZR Turbo S. So let’s get right to it.
[00:20] First, head to the front passenger side. You can remove the tire if you’d like, or you can turn it all the way to the left. Locate the roll pin attaching the prop shaft to the pinion shaft on the differential. I like to use an old extension, a socket, and a punch so you don’t have to loosen your A-arms. Then you can knock it all the way out.
On the driver’s side in the rear you’ll see two 13 mm nuts securing the rear motor mount to the frame of the machine. Remove those. Take a pry bar and shove it right in the middle of the motor mount and push as up pick up.
Now rotate the studs to where it will sit on top of the frame there. Now remove all four allen headed screws securing the prop shaft to the output shaft on the transmission. You can do that by getting the allen wrench started in the bolt, then rotating the tire to break it loose. Once they’re loose, they’re easy to remove. Then tap the prop shaft to get it off the flange.
[02:52] Now head to the cab and remove the seats from both sides. Then disconnect the harnesses from both sides. The next step is to remove the center console. Remove these three screws, these two push pins in the back, then these two push pins on the side. Then pick up on the center console.
Now you’ll have a shield protecting your carrier bearing and prop shaft. Remove this bolt on the passenger side and this bolt on the driver’s side. Then remove the t30 torx in the back here. Now slide the shield back, cover all your wiring, and cut the shield. You’ll have to cut the back portion off, slide it back, and keep cutting until you can slide it the rest of the way out.
Now remove the bolts from the carrier bearing. I like to use a pry bar to get the hoses out of the way. Set the factory bolts aside. Slide the front prop shaft off the pinion shaft by grabbing it and sliding it all the way back. Then angle over to the driver’s side as far as possible. At the front, wiggle it as far forward as you can. It’ll be wedged between the differential and the frame.
[05:02] In the rear, grab the rear prop and wiggle it. Rotate it as you separate it and then go back into the cab to see how it looks. Sometimes they’ll stick together. If they’re really stuck, I will use a pry bar to tap it off the shaft.
Now go to the rear and pull the rear prop shaft out. The front prop shaft still has the pillow block and carrier attached to it. I like to get it rotated up as far as I can go. Get it up to this point right here, then pry the pillow block off of the bearing.
Now slide the prop back as far as it’ll go and bring it up through the center here. You can feed it straight out the back if you have a cab heater installed like we do.
[06:48] Now we’ll get our new SuperATV Rhino Driveline Prop Shafts installed. This is how your prop shaft is going to install. It’ll go like this onto the pinion shaft since our splines are facing towards the rear of the machine. That means that the SuperATV that’s on the carrier bearing needs to face towards the rear like this. The grease ring is facing towards our fixed flange and our yoke. It’s exactly how we want it to go on. It’s going to go on just like this.
Remove the snap ring off the prop shaft. Clean the bearing surface with brake cleaner. And use the provided green retaining compound on the bearing surface on the shaft. We’re going to use a piece of tubing on the inner race of the bearing to knock it onto the shaft with a hammer.
Clean it up and get the snap ring reinstalled. Our front prop is ready. We’ll let it sit for 24 hours to let the green retaining compound to dry.
We’re back. We’ve allowed our green retaining compound to dry so we’ll go to the rear of the machine and get it installed. Slide it right down the same path we pulled it from. Grab the prop shaft from the console and work it all the way forward.
Grab the lower portion of the carrier and make sure the SuperATV is facing towards the rear. Set the upper portion out of the way and have blue thread locker handy. Line up the lower portion with the OEM holes and put blue thread locker in the threads of the bolts. Get the hardware started but don’t fully tighten it.
Grab the prop shaft and slide it onto the differential. Make sure the holes are lined up. Take the provided roll pin and start the beveled side into the prop. Once it’s pinned, we’ll start installing the rear prop shaft.
[10:08] Slide the prop shaft in the same way. Because the Rhino shaft is a little bigger, you may have to pry the motor up a little bit more. Make sure the yoke is heading in the right direction. Reinstall the four allen headed screws securing the prop shaft to the transmission. Make sure to apply blue thread locker to these. Don’t tighten them with the impact. Fully tighten them with an allen wrench the same way you broke them loose.
Next, lift the motor mount up and get it lined back up with the mounting holes. Drop it down, reinstall the nuts, and fully tighten the hardware.
Now fully tighten the bolts on the lower portion of the of the bearing carrier. Then use a torque wrench to torque it to 45 foot-pounds. Now put threadlocker on all four allen headed screws in the top of the carrier. Make sure the bottom of the SuperATV logo is facing towards the rear, then get all the hardware started. Then tighten them and torque them in an X pattern
Now put four to five pump in your carrier bearing and then grease all the rest of the grease zerks on the prop shaft. Then Reinstall any previously removed component.
And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino Driveline Prop Shafts on a Polaris RZR Turbo S. For more information on these Rhino Driveline Prop Shafts or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
