Created: August 12, 2020
[0:00] What’s up, guys? Do you have a worn out or broken prop shaft, or is it just time to upgrade? SuperATV has you covered with our Rhino Driveline Series Prop Shafts. Today, we’re going to show you how to install one on this RZR Turbo S. Let’s get right to it.
First, go to the passenger side of the machine. You can remove the tire if you’d like or turn it all the way to the left. Once we’re down here, we’re going to locate where the roll pin attaches to the prop shaft to the pinion shaft on the differential.
As you can see, ours is right here. We’ve already started it through there. Here’s the set up that I like to use. If you have a punch, pretty much anyone can set this up in their garage. Just take an old extension and an old socket and you can put your punch in it.
That way, you don’t have to take your A-arms loose or your tie rods or anything. It’ll slide right in like that. Then take your hammer and knock it all the way out.
[1:07] For the next step, we’re on the driver’s side in the rear. You’re going to see your rear motor mount here with two 13 mm nuts securing this to the frame of the machine. Remove these nuts.
Once you have the nuts removed, get a big pry bar and shove it right in the middle of the motor mount. Push as you pick up and then you can rotate the studs to where it’ll sit on top of the frame there.
Once we’ve done that, we’re ready to remove all four of the Allen-headed screws securing the prop shaft to the output shaft on the transmission. I like to leave this tire on and get my Allen wrench to get it started into the Allen-headed bolt. Pull it up and then slam it straight down. That’ll help you break these loose.
I found that’s the easiest way. Otherwise, it’s kind of a struggle trying to hold the prop shaft in place and break it loose with the Allen wrench, especially when you don’t have a ton of room to work with.
[2:17] Once I get them loose, I’ll go around and make sure everything’s good and loose. That way, we can get an Allen socket in there.
Now I’ll get a 6 mm Allen and continue removing all of the Allen-headed screws. A lot of times, you can just take a mallet or hammer and tap the prop shaft and it’ll come right off the flange.
Next we’re going to come inside the machine and remove our seats from both sides. Then we’re going to disconnect our harnesses.
After that, remove the center console by removing this screw here and the one on the opposite side. Then we’ll have a screw up here. On our machine, we do not because we have a cab heater installed. Then we’ll remove the two push pins back here. Then pick up on the center console to remove it.
[3:32] For this next step, you’ll have a shield protecting your carrier bearing as well as your prop shaft. Remove this bolt on the passenger side as well as the bolt on the driver’s side. Once you remove those two bolts, you’re going to notice your shield is still stuck. You’re going to have a T30 torx on the back side—like I said, our shield has already been removed.
Once you’ve removed the T30 torx, slide that shield all the way back and find something to cover all of your wiring and hoses, and make sure everything’s out of your way. Then you’ll want to cut the back side of the shield and keep sliding, then keep cutting it as you slide it the rest of the way out.
We’ve already done this so we’re going to go ahead and remove the bolts from our carrier bearing. I like to take a pry bar and pry the hoses out of the way. Then take the factory bolts and set them aside.
[4:36] Next, slide the front prop shaft off of the pinion shaft. Just grab the prop and slide it all the way back, angle it over to the driver’s side as far as you can, and then go over to the front to see where it’s located and see if we can get it further forward. We’ll wiggle it as far forward as we possibly can and it’ll be wedged between the differential and the frame.
Come back to the rear and grab ahold of the rear prop. Pick up on it, wiggle it, and rotate it as we’re separating it. Then go back inside and look to see where the prop shafts are at now.
Sometimes it’ll want to do this thing where it sticks together and you have to give it some wiggles. If they get real stuck together, a lot of times you can take a pry bar or something that can wedge in there and tap it off the front shaft. We used a pry bar and smacked it with a hammer to get our two shafts separated.
[5:43] Now we’ll move on back to the rear and pull the rear shaft all the way out. The prop shaft still has the pillow block and carrier attached to it. What I like to do is get that rotated up as far as I can. You’ll have to wrestle it around quite a bit to get it to this point right here. Then just pry the pillow block off of the actual bearing.
It ripped when we went to remove our carrier from our bearing. It’s no big deal—we can still get our prop shaft out.
All we’ll do now is slide this prop back as far as it’ll go and then we can bring it right up through the center here. You’ll be able to unless you have a cab heater. If a cab heater is installed, just take it straight out the back and feed it through the point where the rear prop shaft was going.
There’s our factory front prop shaft. Now we’re ready to get our new SuperATV Rhino Prop Shafts installed.
[6:50] This is how your prop shaft is going to install. It will go just like this onto the pinion shaft. Our splines will face toward the rear of the machine, so that means the SuperATV that is on the carrier bearing needs to face toward the rear. So the bearing will install just like this.
See how our grease ring is facing toward our fixed flange and our yoke. That’s exactly how we want it to go on—just like this.
We’ll remove our snap ring off of our prop shaft here. Just grab a pair of snap ring pliers and pull it right off.
We’re going to take some Brakleen and a rag and wipe the bearing surface off here, where it’s going to press on. Also we’ll get some green retaining compound that’s provided in the kiit and apply that to the prop. Then we’l get our bearing.
[7:37] We’ve made a tool to knock our bearing on. It’s just an inch and a half wide piece of tubing here. We’ll get it lined up and get our hammer. Just like that, it’s all ready to go. Set it back down and just wipe it down a little bit. Clean it up.
We’ll grab our snap ring and our snap ring pliers to get the ring re-installed.
Now we’re ready to install our front prop. We’ll let this sit for 24 hours and come back tomorrow to install it.
[8:23] Alright guys, we’re back! We’ve allowed our green retaining compound to dry. Now we’ll head back to the rear of the machine and install this prop. We’ll just take our prop, slide it right down, and follow the same path that we did earlier when removing the prop shaft.
We’ll reach in here and get a hold of our crop. Pick it up and continue working it all the way forward. Then we’ll do the same thing here. We’ll slide it over as far as we can and then grab the lower portion of our carrier.
[9:01] Now we need to make sure the SuperATV is facing toward the rear. We’ll just grab our upper portion. Set it out of the way.
Have some blue Loctite handy. We’ll take this lower portion of the carrier and line it up with the OEM holes. put a little blue Loctite on the treads of our bolt. Let’s install our hardware into the factory threaded holes.
We’re going to run our hardware down. We’re not going to fully tighten anything just yet. We’ll get it down in there just enough, that way it holds it in place.
[9:42] Next we’ll grab our prop and slide it right onto the differential. Make sure our holes are lined up. We’ll take the provided roll pin—one side will be beveled inward, so we’ll start that side into the prop.
Now that we have our front prop shaft pinned to our differential, we’ll head back to the rear and install the rear prop shaft. Just slide the prop shaft in the same way we removed the factory ones.
Because the Rhino Prop Shaft is a little bit bigger, you may have to pry your motor up just a little bit more. Lift up on everything—that extra little bit helps out tremendously. Make sure your yoke is heading in the right direction as well.
[10:34] Next, we’ll re-install the four Allen-headed screws securing our prop shaft to the transmission. We want to make sure we apply blue Loctite to these. Once we start one, we’ll just rotate it.
To run these in, we’re not going to tighten them with our impact set here. We’re going to run them in and speed it up a little bit for us, so as soon as it pops we’re done. We won’t try to fully tighten it with an impact.
Once they’re all started we’ll go ahead and take our Allen wrench and fully tighten them.
[11:17] Next we’ll lift back up on our motor mount and line it up. Then we’ll go back into the holes. Once our motor mount is all the way back into position we’ll re-install our nuts and fully tighten them.
Next we will fully tighten the bolts that secure the lower portion of the carrier. Once the hardware is tightened we will go through with a torque wrench and torque it to 45 ft. lbs.
After that we will put Loctite on all four of our Allen-headed screws. We’ll make sure the SuperATV is facing toward the rear. We’ll get everything lined up and get all of our hardware started. Go ahead and tighten these as well. Then we’ll torque them.
You want to tighten them and torque them in an X pattern. Now just go through and put four to give pumps in your carrier bearing and then grease the rest of the grease zerks on the prop shaft.
Re-install any previously removed components.
And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino Prop Shafts on a Polaris RZR Turbo S! For more information on these Rhino Prop Shafts or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.