Created: June 9, 2020
Have you broken a snorkel gear, your reverse chain, or blown the side hole in the side of your transmission? Or maybe it’s just time to replace it. Well SuperATV’s got you covered with our Heavy-Duty GDP Complete Transmission for the RZR 1000, and today we’re gonna show you how to get it installed. So let’s get to it.
First, remove both rear wheels and then remove the castle not. Remove the radius arm hardware from the upper and lower radius arms. Pick up on the trailing arm and remove both the upper and lower radius arm bolts. I like to stick my bolts back in the radius arms so the bushings don’t fall out.
[01:03] Use a 15 mm socket to disconnect the caliper. Remove the bolts and take the caliper off. You can just let it hang out of the way. then pull the hub off and set it aside. Drop the radius arm down, then pull the hub off the axle. Now you can pull the axle straight out of the transmission.
Use an 18 mm socket and wrench to disconnect the shock from the trailing arm. Disconnect the sway bar link using a 15 mm socket and wrench first. Then pick up on the trailing arm and wiggle the shock bolt out. You can let your shock hang or you can tie it up to the machine.
Grab the 8 mm socket to disconnect the clutch cover vent hose and remove all the clutch cover bolts. Set the clutch cover aside. Grab a 10 mm socket and disconnect the hose from the frame. Pull it straight out and tuck it out of the way.
[04:00] Now compress the secondary clutch with a clutch tool or pry bar. Then spin the secondary clutch and work the belt off. Just keep your hands clear as the belt comes off so you don’t get hurt. make sure you keep the belt facing the same way so it doesn’t wear badly when you put it back on.
Get your 15 mm socket and remove the bolt out of the secondary clutch. Then remove the secondary. Now remove the bolt from the primary. You will need to purchase a clutch removal tool from SuperATV.com. These things are super handy and there’s no better way to get a primary clutch off than with this tool.
[5:14] Hand thread it in as far as possible. Take a 27 mm socket, the same one you used for your axle’s castle nut, and tighten the tool until the clutch pops off. Set it out of the way and remove the tool.
Now use your 10 mm socket again to remove the bolts of the inner clutch cover. Then remove this clamp right here. If this tube falls off, just set it aside. Now work the inner clutch cover off and slide the wiring out of the way.
On the passenger side, remove the hub, caliper, upper and lower radius arms, and the axle.
Now we’ll remove the airbox off the rear mount. Stick a wrench on the nut on this side, then walk around to the opposite side and use a 13 mm socket with a six-inch extension and get that on the head of the bolt. Then you should be able to reach around and hold the wrench while you loosen it. Using a buddy makes it even easier. Then pull the bolt out.
Now remove this clamp. Remove this air tube and let it hang out of the way. Pull this wiring out of the way and there’s a clamp right here. Remove it as well. There’s another clamp on the opposite in about the same location. Remove that one too.
[09:40] Now grab the air box. Wiggle it until you get it to slide back as much as possible. It will only go so far with the throttle body still installed. Come around and unclip this wiring right here using a pushpin removal tool. Then wiggle the intake back as far as it will go. When we split the transmission mount, this will come right out.
You can support the motor a few different ways. The best was is the safe way, so whatever you find safest is the best way to do it. Having somebody here to help is a good idea. A lot of times we just stick a socket underneath the motor and then let it sit on the socket. You can use a prybar, too. Today we’re going to slide a socket underneath it.
Now remove the three bolts here. When you’re on the last bolt, shove a pry bar underneath the transmission to hold pressure on it. Then remove the last bolt.
Remember: when you remove this pry bar, the transmission will drop down so make sure your hands aren’t going to get crushed. Now it’s all the way down and it won’t drop and damage anything.
Grab a 15 mm socket and wrench, and we’re going to remove the rear portion of the mount. Put your wrench through here and onto the bolt, then reach around and remove it with the socket. Now pull out the plate and I like to thread the bolts back in so I know what goes with what.
Now remove all the wiring connections. Then pull the harness out of the way. Remove this pin and washer, then slip the pin back on so you don’t lose it. Loosen this nut one turn and then pull it out.
[15:49] Now I like to move the airbox out of the way again so I can get the throttle bodies off. Use a flat-head screwdriver to loosen this clamp. Then undo this plug. Now grab the throttle bodies and wiggle them loose. They should come out easily. Just rotate it and set it out of the way, but be easy with it and make sure none of the wires get pinched. Then take your airbox out. You might need to adjust your throttle body a little more. Shove a couple rags down into the engines so nothing can get in.
Next remove these two bolts and the two bolts in the same spot on the opposite side. You might need an extension for the bottom one. Now set this plate aside. Then pry up on the transmission to get the pressure off this bolt and remove it. You can remove this mount to clear more room if you want.
[18:58] Now we’re going to lower the machine to remove the top of our SuperATV bearing carrier. Remove the seats and all hardware from the center console. Then remove the center console. With the SuperATV carrier, we’ll just unscrew the bolts and remove the upper portion of the carrier.
Back at the transmission, slide the prop shaft as far forward as you can. You might have to go back and forth a few times.
With the prop shaft separated from the output shaft, we can finally remove the transmission. Grab it right here on the front output shaft and right here. Then flip it straight up. Once we have it flipped up, we’ll just rotate it out.
[21:11] Today we’re going to be reinstalling the same transmission we just pulled out. This vehicle already had a GDP Complete Transmission installed and running with no issues, so there’s no reason to replace it. All of the installation and removal process will be the same between the factory and SuperATV heavy-duty transmission.
Now get it reinstalled. Rotate it in the same way it was. Watch your wiring to make sure nothing gets pinched. Use a pry bar to get the transmission into place. You don’t want to smash your fingers.
Now get the prop shaft started on the output shaft of the transmission. Work it as far forward as you can and we’ll start trying to get our holes lined up. Use a pry bar under the transmission and a screwdriver in the hole to make it easy to line up to the motor mount holes. Then get your bolts in.
[24:35] Next reinstall the rear mount. Then slide your airbox into place and take the rags out of the intake. Then take the mount plate and get it lined up and bolt it into place with just these three to start.
Slide the wiring harness to the opposite side. Make sure they’re run in the right location. Take the throttle body and slide it into position. Make sure the wires are out of the way. Inspect it on the opposite side to make sure the wiring is where it needs to be.
Make sure the intake is fully seated. Take the flathead and fully tighten the clamp. Pry straight up on the transmission with a pry bar and line up the mount. Then slide the bolt through. We Now tighten the rear mount.
[30:25] At this point, the wiring should be out of the way on the passenger side. All of the mounting bolts should be tight as well. The distance between this shaft and this shaft should be 10.5 inches. If it’s off it’ll cause a lot of issues. You’ll need to loosen your bolts and adjust it.
Now put the inner clutch cover on and put the primary and secondary on as well as all of the tubes. Now reattach the shift cable to the shift linkage and the bracket here. Make sure you lock that nut down. Then check it with your shifter.
Now reinstall the axles, radius arms, calipers and other suspension parts.
[31:54] Before you run your transmission, make sure your drain plug is installed and your fill plug is removed. The fill plug can be accessed through the rear portion of the machine. Fill it with Polaris AGL until it runs out of the hole. Then you can put the fill plug back in and clean it up with a rag.
Once you double check that everything’s installed tight, you’re good to go.
That’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s heavy-duty GDP Complete Transmission on this RZR 1000. For more information on our complete transmission or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or visit us online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
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awesome info.! thanks for the video. what lift are you using? i like the height that it get the unit up to. makes it much easier to work on.