Created: February 11, 2020
Hey everybody. Today I’m gonna be showing you how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Winch-Ready Bumper and 5,000-lb. winch on this new body style Ranger 1000.
So the first thing you’re gonna want to do is go ahead and remove your factory bumper. We’ve already done so, so what we’re gonna do is grab the lower portion of our bumper. And we’ll grab two M10 Nyloc nuts, four M10x30mm bolts, and four M10 washers.
We’re gonna take our bumper with our M10 hardware and we’re gonna thread it into these holes. Our bumper will have holes in it that’ll line up. Just make sure that we have our washer on. We’ll go ahead and thread it in as far as we can. Then we’ll grab another M10 bolt with a washer. We’ll do the same thing for the opposite side over here.
So now our bumper will kind of hang there a little bit and our bottom holes should be lined up. We’ll grab our M10 bolt and our M10 Nyloc and we’ll just put the Nyloc on the inside. Just reach through, get our nut started. Do that on that side. Do the same thing for the opposite side over here. So now our hardware is started.
We’re gonna go ahead and take our 15mm socket and a 15mm wrench and we’ll tighten up our bottom hardware. We’ll go up here and we’ll fully tighten our top hardware as well. We’ll have to get on those with a ratchet. I like to run them in with the electric ratchet, then we’ll come back with a real ratchet and check them. Just go ahead and double check them here, make sure they’re tight.
Next we’re gonna go ahead and grab our winch and winch hardware. The winch hardware’s gonna come in the winch kit. It’ll be these bolts right here. We’ll run a flat washer and a lock washer and then our bolt.
So we’ll grab our winch and it’s gonna install just like this, so the SuperATV’s facing out. We’re installing the 5,000 lb. so we’ll line it up with the outer holes and go ahead and start our hardware. We can wiggle it around. I like to get my hardware started across from each other, just makes it easier. And once we have all our hardware started we’ll just go ahead and fully tighten it all.
So now we’re gonna go ahead and remove our hood. Now, there isn’t a specific place to mount this solenoid. You can mount it wherever you’d like. We’re gonna try to mount it over in this vicinity here, just ’cause it’s kinda out of the way. If you’re running a factory-style winch, this is where the solenoid would bolt up.
We’re gonna mark a location to drill our first hole. Just go ahead and take a drill bit and just kind of scratch the plastic up pretty good where we’re gonna be drilling at. You can see we left a little mark there where we were scratching. Then, just to double check, we’re gonna reach our hand up in here, make sure there’s nothing that we can hit that’s gonna tear up. Looks like there’s a piece of harness, we’re just gonna go ahead and pull it down. Then we’ll go ahead and drill the hole.
It is easier if you get the hardware for the solenoid first and just kinda stick a couple of the bolts through. Go ahead and let’s find our hole back here that we just previously drilled. So then we’re gonna mark a front hole. Just kinda scratch the plastic a little bit, that way we know where we’re gonna be drilling at. As you can see we kind of scratched it a little bit there. Put everything together, make sure the hole lines up nicely.
Our solenoid’s in place. And then we’ll go ahead and we’ll go flat washer and then lock washer on the stud, and then our nut—it’s gonna be kinda hard for you to see, but obviously just go down to the bottom, reach your hand up through here, and then just thread them on. Just remember, flat washer then lock washer and then your nut. That one’s on.
So once you have your hardware fully tightened it’ll be time to start running our wires to our winch. We’ll go ahead and grab our yellow wire, as well as our blue. And what I’m gonna do is go ahead and undo the stud on my solenoid here. And this is just for mocking up purposes, we’re not gonna fully tighten anything yet.
So I’m just gonna slide the stud on there and just throw the nut on there, that way it doesn’t want to come off. And we’re gonna gauge the distance from our solenoid to our winch. And it’s gonna lay something like this. Lay it straight down. I’m just gonna go ahead and kinda hand snug this up a little bit. And then I’m gonna go ahead and—our grille pops out. So I’m just gonna go ahead and pull the grille out, just for a split second here.
We’re gonna go ahead and run our wire straight down through here. I’m just gonna run right down in front of the radiator. It’s gonna be a little pocket there. We’re gonna run it right through this area here because this is where the actual grille will be laying. And we’ll kinda figure out where we need our wire to lay. I’m gonna go ahead and cut my wire off right about in this region right here.
We’ll loosen our wire off the solenoid. Go ahead and we’ll take this piece of yellow wire, we’ll set it aside. And we’re gonna grab our blue wire. Same exact thing—straighten it out, take our nut off of our blue post on the solenoid. Slide our wire on. Again, just kinda throw the nut on there just to keep it from falling off.
Slide our wire down, just like we did the yellow wire. Go straight through, and then this wire is gonna run underneath this bar, just like the yellow wire did. And we’ll pull it tight, but not too tight. We wanna leave a little extra.
Right about here is where we’re gonna make our cut and put the connector on. So we’ll just go ahead and cut our wire. We’ll go ahead and pull our blue wire off again. And now we have our blue wire and our yellow wire. I’m gonna take my crimps and skim this wire back. So once we have it skimmed back, we’ll go ahead and twist our wires up here. Slide our heat shrink on like that. Go ahead and slide our connector on.
So once you have your connection made and your heat shrink slid up to your connector, we’re just gonna go ahead and shrink it down. Then we’ll just do the same exact thing for the blue wire.
Now we’re gonna go ahead and take our wires and connect them to the appropriate positions on the solenoid. They’re all labeled out. Yellow goes to yellow, so we have our yellow here and we’ll go ahead and slide on our washer, then our lock washer. Then go ahead and start feeding it down.
Then we’ll just do the same exact thing for the blue wire.
And now what I’m gonna do is, I’m gonna go ahead and take my two wires. And you could just run them down here and connect them directly to the winch, and that’s absolutely fine. But I like to take a little bit of heat shrink and slide on my wires. That way we don’t see our blue and yellow wires sticking through our grill. That way it makes it super clean and it keeps our wires together, that way you don’t have to use a bunch of zip ties. It protects them as well.
I’ll pull these wires up here to where I can get a heat gun on them, then we’ll just go ahead and heat shrink them up. So once we have them nice and heat shrinked up, we’re gonna go ahead and run them right down how we had them routed. We’ll go ahead and we’ll take these insulators, kinda slide them down on there.
We’ll go ahead and remove the nut off our winch. Take one washer off, leave one washer. Go ahead and start our nut on the stud, like that. Then we’ll take our blue wire, do the same thing. Make sure that we slide one washer on. And you may have to put a slight little bit of a bend in your connector here, just so it goes on just a little bit easier.
So just get your wire on there then go ahead, slide your washer on, then your nut. And we’ll go ahead and tighten our connections. Once we have our connections tight we’ll just go ahead and pull our insulators over each of the connections. Then we’ll go up here to the winch solenoid. Go ahead and fully tighten the connections here as well.
So now what we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna get our ground and our hot wire, and we’re gonna locate the all-time hot a well as the ground to attach them to.
So now that we have our test light, what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna test this stud right here with the key off to make sure that is an all-time power source, and it is. It’s an all-time hot, and this wire right here that’s gonna be our ground, so we know we can connect our ground here and our hot to here.
So now what we’re gonna do is, grab our black and red wires out of our kit. I’ll go ahead and cut the zip ties off of them. We’ll unscrew our black post, take our nut off the stud. I’m gonna go ahead and cut this wire down ’cause I know I’m not gonna need anywhere near all of this. We’re gonna be going from right here, the black post, to just right here—to this post right here. Connect it.
It’s gonna be a super, super short wire, so what we’ll do is, we’ll take one of our connectors. We’ll cut our wire right there and skin it back, and that’s where the connector laid out at. That will be about perfect and we’ll go right onto our stud. So it’s gonna be one of our wires—I know it’s crazy it’s that short, but that’s just how it laid out.
Our next wire will be just a little bit longer. It’s gonna go up to the firewall. I’m gonna kind of eyeball this one real quick, just to see. Run this wire nice and clean. We’ll run it right along, that ground wire to the connector right there.
So now that we have our wires cut we’ll go ahead and get our connectors and our heat shrink, trim our wires up, and get our connectors on.
So now we have our ground wire installed. Now all we’re gonna do is take our red wire, make our connection just like we did with our black wire. Run it right here to this post. We’ll go ahead and remove the nut off of it.
So now we’re gonna take our red wire and connect it to the red post on the solenoid, as well as the all-time power stud—located right here—that we just previously removed the nut from.
Next thing we’re gonna do is remove our top portion of our dash here, that has our two cup holders in it. Slide right out of the way like that. We’ll sit that down out of the way. And we’re gonna see that we have a grommet up inside of here. If your grommet’s not already opened up, open it up. A lot of times it’ll have cuts already in it. You can just kinda grab ahold of them and kinda open it up a little bit more.
We’re gonna take our rocker switch here. Now we’ve ordered the winch dash-mounted rocker switch instead of the rocker switch that came with the kit. But the installation’s gonna be pretty much the same, except obviously the one that comes with the kit doesn’t go into a rocker switch hole on your panel on your machine. So that’s the only difference between the two there. But as far as routing your wiring, it’s gonna be the same.
You’ll wanna come through on the inside, just like we’re doing today. So what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna take this connector here, push it right through the grommet. As I’m feeding it through the grommet, I’m gonna kinda feed it down and around. Then I’m gonna run it right over here to my solenoid and I want it to look as clean as it can possibly look. Tuck it in back behind here, like that.
We want to make sure that this red wire comes through as well. That’ll be like that, we’ll just go ahead and make our connection here.
So now what we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna go ahead and take a razor knife and we’re going to cut out a rocker switch hole. I just have a little box cutter here. It’s not the best thing to use but it does the job. Another little trick I’ve learned, you know, if your machine is sitting out in a barn or something and the plastic’s gotten kind of cold, what you can do is take your blade on your razor knife and heat it up, and it’ll just cut right through this plastic like butter.
So this one’s about cut here. And if you do cut it out to the factory size like that, you’ll probably end up having to come back through and trim it just a little bit more. Our rocker switch is a little bit bigger than the factory size, but I like to kinda see how long my wiring’s gonna be. Then I can trim it down or I can just leave it the length that it is.
So what we’re gonna do here is we’re gonna route all of our wiring back through this hole. Now the reason I showed you this way first, going through the grommet, is because if you are using the other rocker switch, obviously you’re not gonna route everything through a dash-mounted rocker switch. You’re gonna run it out this way. I just wanted to show everybody where the wiring was gonna go. But we’re gonna undo it up here and we’re gonna slide it all back through the rocker switch hole, then back through the grommet, then make our connection.
So if you’re running the rocker switch you’ll just feed it right through here. Get you a good little bit of excess through, and right back through the grommet where we went the first time. Make a connection. Then you can do one of two things. You can pull your wiring through and you can zip tie it together, just like this, just kinda loosely put it together. We’ll wrap a zip tie around it and then we’ll just tuck it. You know, we can tuck it right up here. That way it’s nice and clean, out of the way, you don’t have to worry about it.
Alright, so we ordered a pulse plug from SuperATV.com. This is gonna be necessary for this installation. There’s gonna be your pulse bus bar. This one right here is the one we’re gonna plug into. So you’re gonna have three wires. You’re gonna have a hot, a ground, and a keyed-on power source. The keyed-on power source is the one we’re looking for. So what we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna connect it to our red wire that’s on this connection right here. That’s gonna be what powers up everything for our winch.
So we’re gonna go ahead and connect our wire here to our orange wire. I’m gonna cut down both of the wires. We’ll cut this wire down a little bit here then we’ll skin it as well.
When we get in here, we have all kinds of connectors we can use. I’m just gonna use the traditional-style butt connector here. One end’s smaller, one side’s larger. Obviously the smaller end goes onto our red wire. The orange one’s gonna go into the orange. Clamp it down.
So now that we’ve got our keyed-on power source, we’ll go inside the machine and turn our key on. Make sure that our winch works. Then we’re gonna finish the installation by installing our bumper.
So next we’re gonna grab our fairlead out of the winch kit. With the hardware you’ll have an Allen-headed screw. You’ll have two lock washers, two flat washers, and two nuts. We’ll just take a flat washer and install it first. Then your lock washer, then your nut. We’ll install our hardware over here on this side as well. Tap it through—the flat washer, lock washer, and the nut. Then you’ll just wanna go ahead and tighten this hardware before we put the bumper on.
We’ll stick an Allen wrench on one side then we’ll come to the other side and fully tighten. So next thing we’re gonna do is go ahead and grab our bumper. Slide it into position. Before we slide it up onto the machine we wanna grab our winch rope. Slide it through the fairlead we just installed. So we’ll grab our M10x30mm hardware with our M10 flat washer. Then you wanna kinda pick up on your bumper, get your hardware started.
We’ll go through and do this on all of these holes.
Then we’re gonna kinda adjust our bumper how we want it. How it’s laying looks pretty good. I like to tighten from side to side. We’ll get it nice and tight, adjusted the way we want it.
The next thing we’re gonna do is go ahead and install our stop block. We wanna make sure this side is facing away from the machine. What we’ll do is, we’ll just lay on our rope here, and we’ll take our hardware. Well drop our Allen-headed screws down through the holes here. Then couple the two pieces of the stop block together.
Then on the threaded side we’ll just go through and drop all of our washers on. We’ll go ahead and take our nuts that are provided and get them threaded on. Then we’ll just go through here and get all our hardware started, and then we’ll go through and we’ll fully tighten each of the bolts.
Now that we have our stop block installed, let’s go ahead and grab our clevis hook. We’ll go ahead and remove the cotter pin out of the hook over here on our clevis. Sit it right there. And our pin, we’ll go ahead and slide that on there. Slide the pin back through. Take our cotter pin, slide it through, and then we’ll just bend the cotter pin away from itself. Take our pull strap, slide it on just like that, so everything will sit just like this right here.
We’re gonna go ahead and grab our hooks that are gonna go on our bumper. They’ll attach just like this. I like to just take my winch and hook it on my clevis hook there. We’re gonna go ahead and tighten those clevis hooks as well. Take a pair of pliers, come down here, just grab ahold of them. Get it nice and tight, that way they don’t want to back out on you.
Then we’ll come in here and we’ll run our winch in.
And there you have it. That’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s winch and winch-ready bumper on this Polaris Ranger XP 1000. for more information on this winch or winch bumper or any of SuperATVs great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
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what is part number for these part
Hey Harold! The part number is FBG-P-RAN1K-00 and here’s the link to the listing on the website if you want to check it out: https://www.superatv.com/polaris-ranger-xp-1000-winch-ready-front-bumper Thanks for the support!
will this fit a 2021 gravely utv 1000 3400 series
Hey Dewyane. Unfortunately, this bumper won’t fit on a Gravely. The fitment for bumpers is really specific and they pretty much never fit anything other than what they’re advertised for. Thanks for checking!