Length: 9:37
Created: September 28, 2020
[0:00] What’s up, guys? Do you have a broken or worn-out knuckle on your RZR 1000? Well SuperATV’s got the fix with our Billet Aluminum Knuckles, and today we’re going to show you how to install them.
First we’ll remove our rear wheels and tires, then we’ll come right here to the cotter pin on the castle nut and remove it. Get a 27 mm and remove the axle nut. We can grab an 18 mm and remove the radius arm bolt.
Pick up and pull the lower radius arm bolt out. I like to go ahead and shove my bolt right through my radius arm. Remove the brake caliper.
Once the hardware is loosened, go ahead and remove it. Just slide it back out of the way. Grab hold of the hub and slide it off. Pick it up and when you do that, slide it back. Your radius arm will come out. We can pull it out a little bit further.
[1:34] Remove the axle. I like to set the axle right here on the trailing arm—that way it’s not hanging down and hurting the boot. We’ll get a 15 mm wrench and 15 mm socket and remove all of the 15 mms securing the knuckle to the trailing arm. As you go, remove your hardware as well as the washers. If not, those washers will want to fall off and hit the ground.
Continue removing your hardware. Once all of the nuts are off, remove your knuckle just like this. Pull all the hardware out of it and set it aside.
Then we’ll remove our wheel bearing. We recommend putting a new wheel bearing on when you’re installing these knuckles. That way, you have a spare in that used wheel bearing. A lot of times, it’s not ideal to install a used wheel bearing, but we’ll show you both ways today.
If you just put a new wheel bearing in, we’ll show you how to change it, and we’ll also show you how to press a new one in.
[3:08] Now that we have both of our factory knuckles removed from the machine, we’ll start removing our bearings. First we need to get a pair of snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring.
Once our snap ring is removed, I’ll set our knuckle up in the press. Let’s center it where we know it’s going to press through there and not damage the bearing.
Then we have something here that we’ve made. It’s going to fit right on the inner race of the bearing. That’ll press it right out.
We’ve got our bearing pressed out, so now we’ll take this bearing and grab one of our new SuperATV billet knuckles. I like to line the bearing up, centered with the knuckle. We can just set it right here on the press and look at it. This is one of the most crucial steps, making sure you press your bearings in straight.
[4:28] Now that we’ve installed our bearing into our new knuckle, we’ll grab our OEM snap ring and reinstall it. Once our snap ring is installed, we’ll go through and make sure it’s in the groove all the way around. Make sure you’ve got good, solid contact all the way around.
Then we’ll repeat the same steps for the opposite side OEM knuckles, as well as the SuperATV Billet Knuckle.
Now we’ll install the new Billet Aluminum Knuckles to the machine. We’ll reuse our factory hardware. Just make sure you have the correct side—there’s obviously a left and a right. Put your bolt through and put your nut on. Then you can go through and install the rest of them.
[5:30] Make sure you pull everything up and out of the way. Sometimes your brake line will be in the way a little bit, and if you’re reinstalling your factory bearing or the bearing that you had installed previously to your knuckle, now is a great time to pick up one of SuperATV’s Bearing Greasers.
Grease the bearing while you have everything apart. It makes it nice and easy—it’s also something that will save these bearings. That way you don’t have to change them out as much.
We’ll start our hardware and then fully tighten all of the bolts securing the knuckle to the trailing arm. And as always, if you’ve had these Nyloc nuts off of the bolts that secure the knuckle to the trailing arm more than once, you’ll want to go ahead and replace them.
This machine’s brand new and has never had the knuckles off of it before, so these Nylocs are still good to go. But like I said, if you’ve taken them off before, it’s always a great idea to replace them.
[6:45] Now we’ll grab hold of the trailing arm and pull it out. Slide our axle through the bearing. Once our knuckle hardware is tightened up, we’ll grab our upper radius arm. Pull back and pull the trailing arm out a little bit. Let’s line it all up and slide our hardware up. Go ahead and start our nuts.
We can go ahead and grab the hub and line it up on the splines of the axle. Then slide it into the bearing, just like that.
Make sure you reinstall your washer and then slide your castle nut on. You can take your caliper and line it up. Get your two caliper bolts—again, this is all OEM hardware we’re using, because none of the hardware changes.
[7:54] So we have our brake caliper installed. Let’s fully tighten the hardware.
We’ll grab our lower radius arm, slide the hardware in, and start our nut. Then we’ll go through and fully tighten everything.
Again, and I know I’ve said it once, but I’m going to say it twice—with these Nyloc nuts, you want to make sure to change them if you’ve removed them more than one time. Same thing with the cotter pin. If it’s worn out or broken, make sure you replace it.
Ours is in good shape so we’re going to reuse it. There’s nothing wrong with it and it came out nice and easy—we didn’t break it or anything of that nature.
Now I’m going to go through and fully tighten our radius arm hardware.
[8:59] Now double check all of your hardware. Make sure everything’s tight on this side, and then repeat the same steps for the opposite side. Once both sides are installed, double check all of that hardware and make sure it’s all fully tightened and back to how it was.
And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Billet Aluminum Knuckles on this Polaris RZR 1000! For more information on these knuckles or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
