Length: 11:39
Created: August 13, 2021
Is it time to upgrade from weak stock tie rods to heavy-duty tie rods? Well, SuperATV has you covered with our heavy-duty billet aluminum tie rods, and today we’re going to show you how to get them installed on this RZR PRO XP.
[00:41] First, we’ll remove our front wheels and tires, as well as our tie rods from our knuckles. If you have factory tie rods, you’ll remove the nut off the bottom of this tie rod end. This machine had SuperATV’s heavy-duty tie rods installed—we’re wanting to change to billet—so remove the nut off the top of this tie rod instead. Straighten the cotter pin out and remove it.
We’ll come in here with our socket and remove this nut. Again, this is only if you have SuperATV’s tie rods installed. If using factory, you’ll remove the nut off the bottom of the tie rod end. So, we’ll remove our misalignment bushing and our tie rod.
[01:39] If you already had SuperATV tie rods installed, you can leave this stud in or you can change it. Don’t worry about this step if you have stock. We’re going to change it out. We’ll remove our cotter pin and take a socket to remove the nut off the bottom of the stud.
Now get two hammers. We’ll lay one hammer here and use the second hammer to smack the first one. After the hammer is smacked, the stud will come loose. Like I said, you can reuse this or discard it. We’ll install our new one that came in the kit.
Now, we’ll go inside the machine and grab ahold of the steering wheel. You’ll steer the wheel to where the inner ball and socket is all the way out to the passenger side. That’s the side we’re working on now.
[02:38] We’ll head over to the opposite side. We’ll come in here with a pair of side cuts and cut the zip tie off. If it’s factory, you’ll have a little clamp. Remove the clamp and slide it down the tie rod.
Then we’ll move to the inside, which is closest to the rack. You’ll see that there’s another zip tie. Just cut it off, or you can try to peel the boot back off the zip tie. This one won’t do that. We’ll slide in here and cut our zip tie.
Next, we’ll grab our boot and slide it off the rack and pinion and all the way down the tie rod. Keep it out of the way so that the inner ball and socket is exposed.
[03:31] Now, we can get a hold of the inner ball and socket. We’ll grab our pipe wrench and get it on the inner ball and socket like this. We’ll crack the inner ball and socket loose.
You should be able to thread the inner ball and socket out by hand. Once it’s threaded all the way out, remove the tie rod.
[03:56] First for the installation, we’ll grab our new inner ball and socket and remove our jam nut off the threads. Set this aside for the time being. We’ll apply a little bit of loctite to the threads of the inner ball and socket.
In the rack, we’ll line up the inner ball and socket and thread it straight in. Then we’ll grab our pipe wrench and fully tighten the inner ball and socket as tight as we can. You want to crank this center ball and socket down. You definitely don’t want this backing out on the trail.
[04:38] Next, we’ll grab a rack boot and slide it over the inner ball and socket’s threads and onto the rack and pinion. Now, we have it slid up the inner ball and socket to where the little notch here is exposed. Your boot should look like this.
We’ll take two zip ties from the kit and get them started together out here. It makes it a little easier. We’ll slide one zip tie all the way down the boot to this far lip next to the inner ball and socket. Tighten it as tight as it will go.
[05:31] We’ll take the other zip tie to this lip. Once they’re both tightened, we’ll cut off the excess. After that, we’ll take our previously removed jam nut and thread it all the way up the threads on the inner ball and socket.
You’ll see that our tie rod has a slight bend to it on one side. This side will go toward the inside, and we’ll thread it up here about halfway. We’ll take our jam nut and run it all the way up our tie rod end. This will be a left-hand thread, and we’ll thread it into our tie rod. We’ll run it about halfway as well.
[06:49] Then we’ll grab our tapered stud, our misalignment bushing, our two nuts, our washer, and our two cotter pins. This is all the hardware we’ll need.
First, we’ll grab our tapered stud and put it down into the knuckle. We’ll take our washer and install it to the bottom side of the stud. Then we’ll take the bigger of the two nuts and thread it behind the washer.
[07:22] We’ll take our tie rod and get it installed to our tapered stud. Once it’s down there, I like to apply some downward pressure and wiggle it. Grab the hub and wiggle it until the tie rod end drops all the way down. You’ll do this until you can get your misalignment bushing in just like that.
Then we’ll take our other nut and get it installed. After that, we’ll take a 22 mm socket on the bottom and a 19 mm wrench on top. Go ahead and fully tighten it.
[08:06] After our hardware is tightened, we’ll slide one cotter pin through the top and one on the bottom. Then we’ll bend them away from themselves.
Once the cotter pins are installed, you’ll repeat these same steps for the opposite side. Then we’ll reinstall our wheels and tires and set the machine on the ground.
[08:38] We have Matthew here helping us. We’ll be rolling out the machine to ensure the suspension is settled. Then we’ll take measurements.
Now, we’ll roll the machine back and forth five times. One thing to keep in mind if you have the Ultimate (have the Dynamix Shocks), you will want to turn the key and ensure that it’s in comfort mode to get the suspension settled. We’ll do that now.
[09:05] After it’s been rolled, push down on the front end to make sure it’s all good and settled. We’ll grab our steering wheel and turn it to the side a couple of times to find a good center. Make sure that it stays centered as you’re taking measurements and making adjustments.
We’ll find the center line of our tire. Every tire has a molding seam in the middle. You’ll want to put a tape measure on it. Then you’ll measure from the molding seam of the front tire to the other front tire.
[10:07] We’ll hand Matthew our tape. He’s going to put it on that center line, and I’m going to come over here to take a measurement. It looks like we’re right at 1409 mm. We’re measuring in millimeters. You can use inches, but I prefer millimeters. It seems like it’s a bit more exact and easier for me.
You’ll do the same thing on the back side of the tire. Make sure you’re not on the skid plate or the bottom of the machine. We’re right at 1430 mm. So, we have a little adjusting to do.
[10:39] That’s super easy to do with our double adjustable tie rods. We’ll grab the actual tie rod bar and spin it either way depending on if we’re toed in or toed out. We’ll make our adjustments now. Once your toes are set, you’ll want to run your jam nuts all the way up by hand and use a wrench to snug them down.
That’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s heavy-duty billet tie rods on this RZR PRO XP. Be sure to check us out online to pick up your tie rods today. Also, feel free to drop a comment, like, and subscribe.
