Created: July 20, 2018
Hey guys, Braden here at SuperATV. Today we are going to be installing the SuperATV Pin Locker on the Can-Am Maverick X3.
When you hit the slop, your four wheel drive needs to be responsive. One of the problems with the stock Visco-Lok differential in the Can-Am Maverick X3, is that it isn’t a true on demand system. Whenever your tires start to spin, it can take up to one full rotation for your clutch pack to lock your diff. This means lost momentum and possible slippage.
SuperATV’s pin locker differential closes the gap between the Visco-Lok and Can-Am’s new smart lock differential. The easy install can give you total control of your front disc locking action. A rocker switch allows you to easily lock your front differential, avoid obstacles, and maintain your momentum as you bounce through the trail. Our pin locker differential replaces the Visco-Lok part of your dip so you don’t have to change any gears and you can reuse half of the original housing. Let’s get started.
Remove the driver’s side wheel and tire. Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper on. Remove cotter pin, axle nut, and washer. Then remove the hub from the spindle.
Remove the tire rod from the spindle. Remove your lower spindle and drop the lower A-Arm. Sometimes a pry bar is needed. Remove your upper ball joint bolt. Knock your spindle from the ball joint and remove the spindle. Remove your lower shock bolt and hang your shock up out of the way.
Remove your brake line from the A-Arm and place your caliper out of the way. Disconnect your sway bar link. Remove the axle by giving it a couple of swift pulls. Remove both upper A-Arm mounting bolts and the A-Arm.
Now repeat the same process on the other side, but don’t remove your A-Arms.
Remove the drain plug from your differential and let the oil drain. Remove the bolt holding the drive shaft to your differential. Remove the four bolts that secure the differential to the frame. Slide the differential forward and remove the drive shaft from the differential. Now remove the differential from the machine.
Alright, so now that we got the differential out of the machine let’s go over the components that you are going to receive whenever you receive the box from SuperATV. We’ve got our billet, pin locker lid, rocker switch, wiring harness, four-wheel drive actuator, shim kit, hardware kit, ring gear plate, spline plate, and spline tub.
Mostly for this install you are going to be using basic hand tools but you are going to be required to set the backlash so we do recommend you use a dial indicator. If you have never used a dial indicator before or you don’t already own one, we recommend you take it to a dealership to have the install done.
Alright so the first thing we’re going to do is remove the lid. Grab a 12 millimeter socket and get the bolts out. Sometimes the things are stuck so you have to get a screw driver and wiggle it around to get the cover off.
Second thing we are going to do is remove the shim. Lay that aside. Now, we are going to flip the other half of the differential over. Give it a little hit to get the gear out. Slide the other side of the cover to the side and we will remove all these bolts. Whenever you are doing this leave the last bolt in, otherwise your ring gear is going to fall out and it is sometimes difficult to get it lined back up. And use a 4-millimeter to get these screws out of here.
Alright, now that you removed this get all your bolts out of the way. We’re good and start removing the clutches out of here. You need a screwdriver, it works great. Kind of work it down in there and they all should pop right up. Take all this and lay it to the side.
So now let’s go ahead and install our spline plate. It drops right down in there. Next, our spline tub. Something that is very important is you have to line up the countersign screw holes. As you can see here, these are going to be tapped, the rest all the way through.
Alright, now that you got it all lined up go ahead and open up our hardware kit to get the hardware we need. Alright, so now that we have our ring gear plate on there, let’s go ahead and start one screw in there just to hold the gear on there.
Alright, now that you got one screw started, go ahead and get your Loctite opened up. We will go ahead and apply some Loctite on every screw before we install it. Alright so now we are going to grab our five millimeter Allen. Whenever you are tightening, you want to tighten across from each other. You don’t want to go in circles. It is going to evenly pull that ring gear up.
Alright, now that you have all of those ran up let’s go ahead and grab our countersign screws. We will put these in here. We will apply just a tad of Loctite here as well. Alright, now we are going to grab our T-handle, four millimeter. Run this up. Go ahead and tighten these down tight as you can get them with the T-handle. Be aware that these do have a small thread on them. Alright so now that we have these two tight, let’s go back through here and double check all these.
Alright, so now we have these bolts tighten, let’s flip this over and talk about shims on the spider gears. We sell steel shims with ours, some machines come with plastic shims. This one in particular came with steel shims. We’re going to go ahead and show you how to change them.
First thing you want to do is move the snap ring on one side of the pin. Once you remove the pin, you grab ahold of this top spider gear here and spin it. As you are spinning it, you want to make sure that you grab ahold of the gears as they come to the front. As you’re holding them reach up here inside of this pocket and you’ll feel the shim. Go ahead and pull the factory shim out.
Alright so we’ve got out factory shims removed and we are going to go ahead and put our shims in. Sometimes it’s easier if you take a little bit of putty or differential oil and wipe it on there, just makes it stick a little bit better. Sometimes you have to take a screwdriver and kind of line them up, hold them in place. Alright, so we got that one started. Let’s go ahead and get into the other side.
Once you get your shims in there, we continue spinning the upper ring gear here, the upper spider gear there and then ensuring that the shims are lined up with the walls on the spider gears. Alright so once you get them lined up go ahead and take the pin. Plug it into the hole. Sometimes you kind of have to work that shim around just to get the pin through. Whenever you put the snap ring on it is a good idea to make sure and fully seat it in there. Then ensure that the snap ring is all the way on there as well.
Alright, now we will go ahead and reinstall this into the differential. Alright, so now that you have this down in here make sure it is fully seated, you should be able to grab ahold of it and make sure that the shaft is spinning. Grab hold of the shaft make sure it spins. Then we are going to grab our lid, remove this out of here for now while we are checking the backlash.
We will start with the factory shim and then if we need to add shims or take away shims we will do that. Reinstall the cover, make sure it is fully seated. While we are checking backlash we are just going to need a few screws just to hold the lid on there. You don’t have to get them super tight, just enough to hold the lid down. Flip the whole differential over where it’s sitting flat, hanging off.
Alright now we are going to want to grab our backlash tool. Whenever you are installing a backlash tool, ensure that the set screw is going into the groove, not getting on the splines. Doesn’t need to be too tight, just tight enough to stay on there and you want to ensure this is set. There’s a line on your differential that you can reference off that, as long as its flat. That’s all we’re really looking to do.
Now you’re going to want to grab your dial. Should move the tip of your dial indicator if it is in the center of that divot to ensure that we are getting an accurate reading. So the specs that we are going to be looking for are between four thousandths and ten thousandths. Anything above or below that you are going to need to add a shim or take away a shim. The way we found best to check this is you can take a flat-head screwdriver or anything that’s going to be able to lock in here down, that way it’s not actually spinning.
We’re going to find out where we’re starting at here. So we are gonna go ahead and pull it down. Right the opposite way. So it looks like we are at twelve thousand here. It’s going to be off the spec so what we are going to do is get the dial indicator off and flip the differential back over and take the cover off. We’ve found that the easiest way to get the lid off is if you can just kind of clock it a little bit and that way you can stick your fingers under here and get your thumbs on the actual differential. Probably just come right off.
Your shim, most of the time, will get stuck on your actual lid instead of being where you placed it whenever you started checking your backlash. We are going to leave this one, the factory shim, and we are going to go ahead and add one of the shims included with the kit.
Now we are going to reinstall the lid. Okay, so essentially the reason that we are going to be adding the shim is that we were out of spec and what we are going to do is add one of the shims that was included with the kit. Check the backlash again and ensure that we’re in the four thousandth to ten thousandth range.
Alright so as you see, we’ve added a shim. We were over spec so adding a shim is going to get our number down. If you were under you would take away. So go ahead and put the dial indicator up here and see what we get it down to. We are going to work back and forth until it stops. Alright, so it looks like we are at seven thousandths. That is going to be spot-on. That’s perfect, anything in between that .04 and .09 is going to be good. Anything over and you are going to have to adjust your shimming, so you can get it within that spec range.
Now what we are going to do is flip it back over, remove the lid. Again, blocking a little bit, thumb’s on the actual differential. Pop right off there. This time our shims stayed on there, just make sure that they’re still on there. We’re going to want to go ahead and remove them. We are going to lay them right on the bearing, the center of the bearing on our lid.
Go back and reinstall this. All you have to do is push up on the bottom of this where the actuator goes. The spring is going to lift that up. Slide it right in the groove. When it seats down in there you can feel it. Right now, we’re going to set this aside for just one second.
We’re going to go ahead and remove this as well. The ring gear assembly. The easiest way to do that is stick your finger right here in this bonds and grab ahold of it with your right hand. You just kind of beat it down, ensuring that you are holding on to the ring gear assembly. You don’t want to drop it. You drop it, you could chip a tooth, that’s going to cause significant damage to your differential. Alright, so we will lay that out of the way.
Now this is where the springs are going to come into play, so on our ring here we have little indentions. You’re going to go ahead and sit all your springs down in there, in each indention. We’ve found that it is easiest if you can get it flat. The lid’s flat and then what we do is we’re gonna flip this over and set it on there. Ring gear assembly on to the lid. Each spring is going to have its own hole.
This is where the pins are actually going to go in the deeper holes and the shallower holes are where the springs go. So after you get that set down on there, it’s a good idea to take a little pick and go through and ensure that all these springs are seated properly. Sometimes they can get a little jammed in there and you don’t want that. You want them seated properly.
So we checked all those, all the springs are good. I am going to take the other side of the differential. We are going to line the two closest holes up and just put the two closest on the lid. Set it right down on there and give it a few wiggles. Then you’re good to go. Make sure you are holding it together when you flip it over so you don’t separate it when you flip it.
Alright, now we are going to install all the cover bolts. It’s okay to use an impact to run them down, just make sure you aren’t tightening with an impact. You want to go back and check them all with a ratchet. Now we are going to grab a ratchet. Alright all the lid bolts installed tight.
Let’s get back over to the machine. Place the differential back into the machine and slide your drive shaft on. Install your four bolts securing the differential and tighten. Reinstall your drain plug. Reinstall your bolts securing your driveshaft to your differential and tighten. Install vent tube to differential and secure with a zip tie. Grab your provided actuator from SuperATV and install it into the differential and tighten.
Remove your passenger side seat. Remove your interior panels to gain access to the power block. Run your provided wiring harness through the firewall and plug into the actuator. Pull the other end of the wiring harness back to the power block and connect the black wire to the ground post and the orange wire to the Keyon post. Now, remove the plastic cover under the dash by removing two Torx bit screws and two pushpins.
Grab the wire that has a switch connection on it. Locate where you want to put the switch on your dash and run the wire out to that location and connect your switch and place into the holding.
Now it is time to button your machine back up. Reinstall all the parts you have removed in the opposite order they were taken off and enjoy your new locking differential on your Can-Am Maverick X3. That’s all there is to it and now you have an awesome on-demand differential lock on your UTV. Anticipate obstacles and lock your differential at the flip of a switch. No more loss of momentum and your buddies will be wondering why they can’t keep up.
Thanks for watching guys, be sure to call us at (855)-743-3427 if you need any more help and check out superatv.com for more awesome products and instructional videos.