Created: May 12, 2020
[0:00] The first thing we’ll do is remove both front wheels and tires. As you can see, we’ve already done this, so we’ll jump right in and remove the brake caliper. Just slide it out of the way for the time being.
Then we’ll remove our cotter pin from the castle nut. We’ve already done this, so we’ll remove the castle nut, then remove the hub, and then remove our nuts from the upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and shock.
Next, disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle. If it’s stuck, sometimes you have to get a hammer and hit it right here. Usually you can hit it one time and it’ll free itself up.
[1:21] After that we’ll disconnect the upper ball joint bolt. Pick up on the knuckle to relieve some tension from it, pull it out, and let it drop down like that.
Then we’ll grab a ratchet strap and wrap it around the cage. Pick up on the upper A-arm and remove the shock bolt. Hook your strap onto your shock and pull it up out of the way, as far as it will go.
We’re going to disconnect the sway bar link from the A-arm. Just pull it down and out of the way. Pick up on the A-arm, hold it up, pull the axle out of the knuckle, and plunge it in. Then pull it straight out.
Now we’ll remove our lower ball joint bolt and then remove the knuckle from the machine. Then we’ll disconnect the brake line from the upper A-arm. What I like to do is take the brake line and the caliper and set it up here. Hang it over the shock to get it out of the way.
Then we’ll remove all of the hardware securing the A-arms to the frame of the machine. Then remove the A-arm.
[3:05] Next we’ll disconnect the tie rod from the rack and pinion. But before we do that, we have to cut the zip ties off the boot on the outside as well as the inside. Once we’ve done that, we’ll grab the boot and pull it down, out of the way.
Get a pair of adjustable pliers and an adjustable wrench. Grab hold of it and then brake it loose. A lot of times, once it’s broken loose, you can just grab the whole tie rod and spin it.
Let’s go ahead and completely remove it from the rack.
Repeat all of these steps for the opposite side.
[4:12] After that, we’ll install our steering stops and new tie rods. We’ll grab the steering stop out of the kit and slide it right over the shaft of the rack and pinion.
Then we’ll grab our inner ball and socket. Take a little bit of Loctite and apply it to the threads, making sure we get a good, even coat. Thread it into the rack and pinion.
Once we have it in there as tight as we can get it with our hand, we’ll fully tighten it.
Next, grab the tie rod and thread it onto the stud of the inner ball and socket. We’ll thread it about three quarters of the way on, then we’ll grab the larger boot from the kit and slide it over the tie rod, onto the rack and pinion. Then secure it with a zip tie.
Put one zip tie here on the outer portion of the boot—get it nice and tight. We’ll put one on the inside, on the rack side. Then I like to take my finger and go all the way around, making sure the boot is all the way up on the rack and pinion. Otherwise it’s not going to seal properly.
[5:53] Ours is completely sealed. We’ll go ahead and get it on the outer lip of the boot. Go through and fully tighten it, then we’ll cut off the excess of our zip ties.
Grab our heavy-duty heim joint and thread our jam nut all the way toward the outside. We’ll thread this in the tie rod as well. Just keep in mind that this will be leaf-hand thread.
We’ll thread it on there about three quarters of the way because we’ll have to set the toe.
[6:31] Now we’ll grab our new A-arms and install them on the machine. First, we’ll grab our lower A-arm. Make sure you install the provided straight grease zerks into each of the pivot blocks. It should look just like this.
We got our A-arms preinstalled with ball joints as well as bushings, so they’re ready to go on the machine. We’ll slide them into the lower mounting tabs on the frame. Grab our factory A-arm bolts and make sure our holes are lined up. Slide the bolts through and let them hang.
[7:10] If you’ve had your A-arms off more than twice, you’ll want to get new Nyloc nuts. All of the A-arm hardware is going to be an M10 x 1.25. Go to the local hardware store and pick up about twenty of them—that will cover you for both sides.
Now we’ll grab our upper A-arm and install the 90-degree grease zerk facing toward the inside, or to the sway bar tab. Then we’ll install it to the machine.
Next we’ll put all of our nuts on each of the bolts we just installed for our A-arms. Fully tighten them, and then we’ll install our axle.
[7:58] Now it’s time to reinstall your axles. You can use your factory axles but today we’ve decided to upgrade to SuperATV’s Rhino X300 Axle. It installs just the same as a factory axle. When you get it in, pull on it to make sure it’s fully engaged.
While we’re holding our axle up, we’ll take our knuckle and slide it onto our lower ball joint. It should slide right into place. We’ll grab a bolt and slide it through. Take our axle and slide it into our knuckle.
Then grab our upper A-arm and slide it into the knuckle as well. Grab the bolt and slide it through.
[8:58] We’ll take our shock and slide it into place. Grab our shock bolt. Then reattach the sway bar. Sometimes you’ll have to stick a bolt into the bushing to rotate it around so it fits properly.
Then we’ll put nuts on each of the bolts that we previously installed and go through and fully tighten all of the hardware.
Next, we’ll take our tapered stud that’s provided in the hardware kit. It’s going to go right where the factory tie rod installed.
[9:46] On the bottom side we’re going to take one of our castle nuts and thread it on. Get it as tight as you can by hand and then we’ll slide our heim joint down on top of the tapered stud. Then we’ll grab our misalignment bushing and slide it down over the stud, into the heim joint. Install the top castle nut.
At this point, we want to make sure that both of our jam nuts are still loose. Then we’ll go through and fully tighten both of these castle nuts. Install our cotter pins.
[10:27] Once you’ve done that we’re going to grab our hub, making sure we still have both of our washers if your axle runs both washers.
Slide the hub onto the splines of the axle. Get it started, then wiggle it and it will go right on. Put your washers on and reinstall your castle nut. We’ll fully tighten this, and then you want to take your cotter pin—every time I take something apart, I like to put new cotter pins in—and install it just like that.
Now we’re going to grab our brake caliper and slide it down onto the rotor. Grab the brake caliper hardware and reinstall it. Then you want to grab the provided brake line clips and install one of the below the factory brake line clip, and two of them above it. It should look just like this.
[11:48] Then we’ll use the provided hardware to attach the brake line to the A-arm. Make sure you get them started good and straight by hand first, and then only tighten these with a ratchet. Make sure you do not use an impact because they’ll strip out easily.
For the rest of the holes, use the provided hardware then go through and fully tighten them with the ratchet.
[12:14] The next thing we’ll do is set the toe. You need to reinstall your wheels and tires and get your machine back on the ground. We have Corey helping us today. We’re going to roll the machine back and forth about five times to settle the suspension, then we’ll start measuring.
Once we’ve done that we’ll go inside the machine and make sure the steering wheel is perfectly straight. Then we’ll measure from the center line on the front of this tire to the center line on the front of that tire.
It looks like we’re at 56.5. So now we’ll do the same thing on the back side of the tire. It looks like we’re at 56.5 on the back side as well.
[13:17] One of the awesome thing about SuperATV’s heavy-duty tie rods is that they’re double adjustable, so if you had to adjust your toe in or out, you just have to make sure both jam nuts are loose. Then grab hold of the tie rod and spin it accordingly. You just want to tighten down both jam nuts.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s 2″ Forward Offset A-Arms on this Polaris RZR Turbo. For more information on these A-arms or any of SuperATV’s great products feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
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Its great that your parts com already set (i.e.toe)…however, your video could explain how to adjust the toe when it is off. Great or the machine in the video that there was no adjustment needed. However, the set I received needs adjustment as the toe is way off. To make teh video more effective, the toe should be off so the technicians can demonstrate how to adjust it properly. Would make this video much more effective.
Hey Don, thanks for the feedback on this. We’re always looking for ideas on how to help our customers in the best way possible. Check out this article where we give a better rundown on how to adjust: https://www.superatv.com/offroad-atlas/how-to-adjust-the-camber-toe-and-caster-on-a-side-by-side/ We appreciate the support!
Mention all of the torque specs as you tighten things down
Awesome feedback, Mark! I’ve passed this along to our video team. Thanks for watching!