Created: April 30, 2020
[0:00] The first thing that we’re going to do is remove both front wheels and tires. We are going to remove the cotter pin out of our castle nut for our axle.
We’ll remove the castle nut then the brake caliper bolts. The brake caliper we’ll just let hang for the time being. Then we’re going to remove the brake scraper by removing the one 10mm bolt.
Grab the hub and remove it. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod, then the nut. We are going to hit the knuckle right here then remove the tie rod.
[1:30] We’re going to loosen our shock bolt and remove the nut. Take a ratchet strap, wrap it around the cage of the machine, and have it ready. Pick up on the A-arms, remove the shock bolt, then tie the shock up out of the way.
Then we’re going to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint. Remove the nut off the lower ball joint.
Separate the lower A-arm from the knuckle. The best way to do this is to take one hammer and stick it right here on the lower portion of the A-arm and then take another hammer and hit it.
Just pick it up, wiggle it around, and it’ll come right out. Pick this A-arm up as high as it’ll go and pull your axle out. Take your axle and twist your tie rod around and let it hang just like that so it doesn’t crease the boot on the inner or outer.
[2:55] Then we are going hook our shock back up for just a second. This makes it easier to get the upper ball joint disconnected. Then we will spin this around. Get up in there and get the cotter pin out. Then remove the nut off of the upper ball joint.
Take our two hammers to separate the ball joint. Once you hit it a few times it should just pull off with ease.
Then we’re going to take our shock bolt back out and tie our shock back up out of the way again.
[3:50] Then we are going to disconnect the brake line from the A-arm. Undo the break line out of each of the holders. Take it and set it right up here, behind the front bumper.
Then we are going to disconnect the A-arms from the frame of the machine. It will be four bolts—two on the upper and two on the lower. Now remove the hardware from the A-arms and remove them from the machine.
Now it’s time to repeat all of these steps on the driver’s side. On the driver’s side you have to remove the plug to get to the bolt and then we are going to get our bushings and ball joints installed on both of our new SuperATV High Clearance A-Arms.
[4:51] Now I’m going to show you how to install your new Heavy Duty SuperATV Bushings into your A-arms. If you’d like to install your factory bushings into your A-arms we are going to link a video in the description below. Check that out and I’ll show you everything you need to do to get them installed. So let’s get started on these bushings.
Take one of your bushings and push them in as far as you can by hand. Then grab a rubber mallet and tap them all of the way in until it’s flush.
Then roll it over to the opposite side and do the same exact thing. Tap the bushing all the way in. Then take our metal sleeve and slide it in by hand. Make sure it has a equal distance on either side of the bushings.
Then we are going to pop the bushings in on this side. The process is going to be exactly the same as the opposite side. Then repeat these steps for the rest of your A-arms.
[6:02] Next we are going to head on over to the press and press our factory ball joints out of our factory A-arms. First thing we are going to do is set the A-arm up here. Set it somewhere where it’s good and sturdy.
Remove the snap ring off the ball joint. Take a pair of snap ring pliers and get them lined up. Just pull the snap ring right off. Set it to the side.
Then we’re going to find something that sits around the ball joint, just like this. So it’s going to lay on the outside of the ball joint, on the lip of the A-arm. Then we are going to find something that sits on the ball joint, right here on the top of it. We are going to use a socket.
Take a socket or something to press with and set it on top of our other socket or something to press the ball joint out with. We are going to get everything lined up, that way the ball joint presses out straight.
We’re going to start pressing the press down here. Continue pressing it until the ball joint comes out of the factory A-arm.
[7:22] Next we are going to be pressing our ball joints into our SuperATV A-arms. We’ll take our ball joint and slide it up into the ball joint housing on the A-arm. Make sure we get it as straight as possible.
Then we are going to find something that just fits over the lip of the ball joint. You have to find something that will slide past the boot. This fits a little tight but it will slide past the boot without damaging it. We’ve done it numerous times.
Then we are going to find something that is wide enough on the bottom side so we can lay the A-arm just like this and the ball joint can press through.
We’re going to use this piece of piping and then this piece to press the ball joint in. Lay it up here and make sure we get it good and centered. Press that ball joint in until it fully seats.
Go around and make sure that our snap ring groove is visible all of the way around, which it is.
[8:21] So once the ball joint is pressed in there, we are going to reinstall our snap ring. We’re going to lay the A-arm up here. Take the snap ring and the snap ring pliers. Open them up then go through and make sure it goes down in the groove good. It looks like it’s good all of the way around.
Now press the ball joint into your other upper A-arm.
[8:49] Now we have our bushings and ball joints installed on all of our A-arms. It’s time to get our A-arms installed.
We’ve got our upper A-arm on our driver’s side. So we’re going to grab our hardware and get it attached to the frame of the machine. You just want to make sure that you go up underneath your brake line here and slide it right into position.
Once you have your upper A-arm hardware installed, get your nut started on each of the bolts. And remember, on the driver’s side you have to remove the plug to be able to get to the bolt. We’re going to reach right inside here and get our other nut started.
Then we’re going to grab our knuckle and get it installed. Flip it around backwards just like we did when we took it off. Get our nut started. Then we’re going to fully tighten our nut and install our cotter pin.
Let it hang down there. Make sure that you keep your axle up out of the way. Just take your tie rod and set it right there. It won’t bind up or hurt the boots.
Tighten that castle nut until your cotter pin hole lines up. Get your cotter pin installed and then we are just going to pick up on our knuckle as far as it will go and slide our axle in.
[10:35] Then we are going to grab our lower A-arm andget it installed on the frame of the machine.
Get the nuts installed on both of these bolts. Then we’ll grab our lower castle nut. Pick up on the A-arm and the knuckle and get it so that our lower A-arm lines up with the lower ball joint. Get the nut started and we’ll let our shock down.
[11:45] We’ll attach it to our upper A-arm. Get your nut started and then take your tie rod and slide it into place. Tighten the nut up there.
Then we’re going to grab our hub and slide it on there. Grab our castle nut and our washer. Slide the washer on first and then the castle nut.
Grab our caliper. Get it into position and then start your bolts. Grab your brake scraper and get your hardware started for that as well.
Grab your factory hardware for your brake lines. Go ahead and attach the brake line to the A-arm.
[13:50] Now all you have to do is go through and fully tighten all of your hardware, re-install all your cotter pins, and then repeat all of these steps for the opposite side. You’re going to reinstall all of your wheels and tires.
That’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s High Clearance A-Arms on this Honda Talon 1000R. For more information on these A-arms or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
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