Length: 8:36
Created: June 2, 2020
[0:00] Are you looking for more clearance on the back side of your RZR PRO XP? What about a heavy-duty, billet aluminum, lifetime warranty radius arm? Well, SuperATV’s got you covered. Today we’re gonna show you how to get them installed.
The first thing you want to do is remove your rear wheels and tires. We’ve already done this. We’ve also gone through and loosened up all of our hardware, just for demonstration purposes.
We’re gonna remove our nut off our shock bolt. We’ll grab hold of the bottom of the trailing arm. Pick it up so we can get our shock bolt completely removed. Then we’ll pick up on the trailing arm and remove our sway bar link bolt as well.
Once we’ve done that, it’s going to allow everything to drop out. We’ll just pull our sway bar link out of the way, pull our shock out of the way, and now our suspension’s fully dropped. We can move this trailing arm around. We can get our bolts out and everything like that.
But first we need to remove our brake line holder. Again, we’ve already loosened our hardware. Let’s go ahead and remove the nut on both our bolts. Both are gonna be 10 mm on the top and bottom.
[1:08] Once we’ve done that, just grab hold of it and remove it. Then we can remove our upper radius arm. It’ll be an 18 socket and an 18 wrench on this.
Just pick it up and wiggle your trailing arm around. The radius arm will drop out. Just flip it out of the way.
Then come down to the lower radius arm. Remove the hardware as well. Wiggle it around until our bolt comes free. Pull our radius arm out. Let it hang.
Now as you can see, our trailing arm is all the way hung down. That puts a lot of pressure on this axle. We’ll slide our shock bolt back in so we’re not putting a big strain on that axle. We’re not creasing the bead or anything like that.
[1:57] We’ve got the shock in it, so now it’s not gonna droop as far. That way we don’t hurt our axle. We don’t want to crease that boot. When you crease the boot, it’s prone to tear or rip. It just causes all kinds of issues.
Throw your shock bolt back in, then we’ll repeat all these steps for the opposite side.
[2:16] Now that we have our radius arms removed from our knuckles on each side, we’re gonna remove this rear panel here. Remove all the T40s. There will be three on each side—one at the top, one in the center, and one at the bottom.
We’ll just set this panel aside.
Now it’s time to remove our radius arm. What I like to do is remove the lowers first. You just take your wrench. You could slide it down through here and get on the head of the nut. Take your socket and remove it.
Ours are already all loosened up, but we’ll remove our nut. I like to loosen that all the way to the point where it’s past the Nyloc, that way I can reach my hand in here. Otherwise, sometimes they like to drop underneath the transmission and they’re pretty difficult to get to.
[3:20] So get them to this point right here, where they’re pretty loose. Then stick your hand in here and loosen them up.
We’ll pull our bolt out for each radius arm. Set our radius arms to the side. Let’s remove our rear plate as well as our upper radius arms.
Now it’s time to install our new SuperATV billet aluminum radius arms.
Make sure we grab our new provided radius arm plate. We’re going to grab an upper radius arm. Make sure our bushings are in. And the curved potion needs to be facing outward, so it has a curvature to it.
[4:14] You also want to make sure that it’s facing outward. Otherwise it won’t line up. So we’ll take a bolt and slide it through our radius arm. Get your radius arm bolt through the frame. Reach through and start our nut on the back side. Get it kind of hand tight.
Then we’ll grab the opposite side and slide it into position. Slide the bolt through. We’ll take our upper radius arms and just lay them up here on the trailing arm. Get them out of the way.
We’ll grab our lower radius arms. Get our radius arm plate slid back enough so we can slide the radius arm in there. Get the holes lined up. Reach through and get our nut started on our bolt.
We’ll get our nut started on this bolt as well.
[5:35] I’m gonna fully tighten all the hardware.
We’re gonna attach our upper radius arm to the knuckle. Just get it lined up like that.
We’ll do the same thing for the lower radius arm. Get our nut started, then do the same thing for the opposite side.
[6:39] Next we’re gonna get our nuts started back on our shock bolt. Get our sway bar link back into position. We’ll have to adjust it per side. The other side is still hooked up so we’ll have to get the shock on this side over here.
Pick up on the trailing arm. Get the shock bolt’s reinstalled.
Then we can come over here and get our sway bar link bolt back in.
Once we have our shocks hooked back up and our sway bar link hooked back up, we’ll reinstall the rear portion of our fascia here.
[7:35] Once we have it all started, we’ll fully tighten it all.
Then you’ll want to go through and fully tighten all of your hardware. Reinstall your factory components that you haven’t already.
Then you’ll set it down on the ground. Make sure your camber is set correctly. Every machine’s gonna vary a little bit, so you may have to adjust it. Once you’ve adjusted it and got it set, make sure you tighten your jam nuts here.
And that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s High Clearance Billet Aluminum Radius Arms on the PRO XP. For more information on these radius arms or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
