Created: April 28, 2020
[0:00] Are you looking for more ground clearance? Or to be able to utilize a little bit larger tire? SuperATV’s got the fix with our High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms, and today we’re going to show you how to get them installed on this Honda Pioneer 1000. So let’s get to it.
The first thing we’re going to do is remove our front wheels and tires from both sides. We’ve already done this so we are going to jump in and start removing our suspension components.
The first thing you’re going to do is remove your cotter pin from your castle nut. We’ve already done this and all of our hardware is already loosened for demonstration purposes. So we can go ahead and remove our castle nut.
Once the castle nut is removed, you’re going to go to your brake caliper and remove it as well.
Remove your brake caliper and grab it. All of our brake line clips are already removed as well. For any portion of the A-arm that there is a brake line fastener, remove that at this time.
We’ll wiggle our hub right off and set it aside. And then we’re going to come over here to our tie rod. We’ll remove our cotter pin first and then we’ll remove our castle nut.
If your tie rod end gets stuck to your steering arm here on your knuckle, you can take a hammer and hit it right on the steering arm until it frees it up. Ours is freed up because like I said, we’ve already loosened all of our hardware.
[1:32] Once we have our tie rod removed, we’re going to get a ratchet strap.
I like to tie it around the cage, just like this. To get it ready to go, we’ll remove our hardware from our shock bolt. We’ll remove our shock and relieve the tension off the shock. Let our A-arms drop down.
Then we’ll hook a ratchet strap into our upper A-arm. You’ll have to kind of pick up on it. Pull your shock out of the way, then pull it like this.
Once we have our upper A-arm tied up, we’d come in here and remove our cotter pin from our upper ball joint. As you can see, we’ve already done that. Then we’d remove the nut.
[2:35] Once we’ve done that, we’d let our knuckle come down and we’d grab our axle. We can let that lower A-arm hang and we’re just going to remove the axle, that way it’s not hanging.
Then we’ll take an extension on a drill impact and remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle.
Like I said, all of our hardware is pretty much loose from just us mocking it up for demonstration purposes.
This ball joint will be stuck in the knuckle here. A lot of times what I do is just take one hammer, lay it on the knuckle here. Then take another one and smack it. That’ll free it up to the point where it’ll just come right off there. Remove the knuckle here and set it aside.
Then we can remove our lower A-arm. Remove the bolt out of each A-arm tab.
[3:31] We’ll cut our strap loose from our upper A-arm and let it drop down. Remove our upper A-arm bolt.
In each A-arm kit you’re going to have some steering stops. If you’d like to install them, all you’ll have to do is pull you boot back just like this. Pull it down and slide it down your tie rod. You’re going to see there’s a inner rack shaft right here behind your inner ball and socket.
You’ll take your steering stop and pop it right over that shaft. That’s how you install your steering stop. Today we are not going to be installing them on this machine so we are going to continue on to the next step.
[4:15] We went ahead and ordered a set of SuperATV Heavy Duty Ball Joints. You can absolutely utilize your factory ones but today we’re going to upgrade.
So we’re going to find something that is larger than our ball joint for it to press through. We’re going to find something that fits on the top just like that. We’re going to make sure we have it nice and centered, which we do. And we are going to start pressing this ball joint in.
Once we have our ball joint pressed in, move it all of the way around and look to make sure it’s pressed in flat. We’re going to press our other ball joint in and then we will put our C clips on.
[5:09] We’ve got our upper ball joint pressed in as well. Make sure you take a look around and make sure your snap ring groove is exposed. Ours is.
If you utilize the SuperATV ball joint, you’ll realize there is no boot on this ball joint. We’ll have to install the boot as well as the snap ring.
The first thing we are going to do is put our snap ring on our lower ball joint. Just take a pair of snap ring pliers and slide it down there. Make sure it locks into the groove all the way around. That one looks good to go.
On the upper A-arm, I like to put my snap ring on before I glue my ball joint boot on. Slide it over top of the ball joint. Get it down in there a little bit and then just tap it down.
[6:02] Now we are going to use our glue to glue our ball joint on. When you’re using this glue, make sure that you are using a pair of gloves as well. This stuff is very sticky and it can be harmful to your skin as well.
Thread this cap right in there. It’s going to be ready to go now. Just squirt a little bit out there. It comes out really fast so you have to make sure that you’re careful with it.
I’m going to go right around this groove here—this lip where our ball joint is going to lay. Put a nice layer. You don’t even really have to squeeze the glue bottle. You just kind of run it around there. It’ll let out enough that it’s going to stick.
You want to be quick too, because this stuff dries really fast. Then just stick your ball joint boot right down into place. Make sure it’s fully seated all the way around.
By the time you take your gloves off and walk over to the trash can and come back, it’ll be fully settled. Right now it’s not even liquid anymore. It’s all stuck.
[7:17] So now we’re ready to get these A-arms installed to our machine. Once we have our ball joints installed in our new SuperATV A-arms we are going to cut the zip ties off of our preinstalled bushings here.
We are going to slide them into our lower A-arm tabs. You may have to wiggle them into place a little bit. Slide our bolts through once they are lined up.
Get our nut started on both of these bolts here.
Now we can grab our knuckle and slide it down onto our ball joint. And then we’ll grab the hardware pack. So you’ll have your nut, flat washer, and your cotter pin.
Drop the flat washer on there and we’ll get our nut started. And we’ll fully tighten this nut. It just makes it a lot easier when you have it apart like this, instead of having to wrench the whole time. You can take a socket and tighten it up.
[8:31] Here’s an issue you may run into—the ball joint stud’s going to want to spin. So what you can do is apply some pressure down on the actual shaft of the ball joint while you’re tightening it up.
Once you’ve got it tight, take the cotter pin and locate your cotter pin hole. And our ball joint kind of spun into a bad location. If it does this to you, all you have to do is take your cotter pin and pull it up as you work it through.
So that way you just worked it through. Fold the ends of your cotter pin over.
[9:28] So we’re going to tie our shock up out of the way. It’ll make it that much easier for us. And we’ll grab our upper A-arm. We’re going to slide this one right into position. Take our bolt and slide it up past the frame.
Wiggle that A-arm until it lines up. We’ll get our nut started up here as well.
So once the upper A-arm is installed, just hook it right on to the shock mount. Tie it up here with the shock.
We are going to reinstall our axle.
[10:12] We will grab our knuckle and pull it up to the axle. Hold it in position. We’ll cut our upper A-arm loose. So we’ll slide our upper ball joint through just enough to where we can get our washer on and we can get our nut started.
Once we have it started, we’ll fully tighten that ball joint.
So once you’ve got it fully tightened, grab your cotter pin and slide your cotter pin in. And then you’ll bend your cotter pin away from itself and we’ll reattach our shock.
[11:03] Put the nut on the shock bolt and then your tie rod.
Then we will grab our hub and our brake caliper. Get it installed.
Now that we have everything installed, we need to go through and fully tighten our hardware. Then we will use the provided brake line clips to attach our brake line to our A-arm.
We’ve previously had portals installed on this machine so we are going to have to flip our caliper, but you all won’t have to do that. You’ll just take your brake caliper clips and go down through the A-arm. Use the provided hardware.
[11:52] So now you’re going to make sure your hardware is fully tightened. Everything is tied up out of the way. Make sure all of your cotter pins are installed. Then repeat all of these steps for the opposite side.
That’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on this Honda Pioneer 1000. For more information on these A-arms or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching, and we’ll catch you next time!
How to Install Winch & Winch Mount on Polaris RZR 1000
How to Install a Plug & Play Turn Signal Kit on a Can-Am Defender
How to Install High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on the Polaris RZR PRO XP
How to Install High Clearance A-Arms on a Honda Talon 1000R
How to Install a Rhino Driveline Prop Shaft on a Polaris RZR 1000
How to Install a Gen 3 GDP Portal Gear Lift on a Polaris RZR XP 1000