Length: 16:37
Created: April 16, 2020
[0:00] Are you ready for more clearance from a heavy-duty A-arm that’s fully adjustable, easy to install, and comes with a lifetime warranty? Today I’m going to show you how to install SuperATV’s Heavy Duty High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on the RZR PRO XP. So let’s jump right in!
First we’re going to remove our front wheels and tires. We’ve already done this so we’re going to remove our cotter pin from our castle nut. Then we’ll remove our castle nut.
Set our washer there. Then we’ll remove our brake caliper bolts. We’ve already drilled the rivets out of our factory A-arm and brake line so you’ll want to drill them out.
They usually drill out pretty easily. I like to use a 1/8″ drill bit. Just something to drill right down through the center. Then take a punch and knock them out—it’s easy.
[1:01] So we’ve got ours disconnected. Like I said, we’re going to pull our caliper off. We’re going to lay it down out of the way. We are going to be careful though—we don’t want to damage the brake line specifically.
We’ll remove our hub. We’ve got our hub removed so we’ll disconnect our tie rod end from our steering arm.
We’ve already got our hardware loosened up.
If you have issues getting your tie rod out of the steering arm, what I recommend you do is take two hammers. You’ll lay one hammer up against your steering arm, then with your second hammer you’re going to smack this hammer. Do that a couple of times and it should come right free.
That’s what we had to do on ours. Then pull your tie rod up and out of the way. Then we will go up here to our shock and take our nut off of our shock bolt.
We’ll set that aside and then come back here to the sway bar linkage, if you still have it connected. I know a lot of people like to take their sway bar link off.
[2:03] Then we’re going to push down on our knuckle here and kind of wiggle our A-arm in order to get our shock bolt out.
Then I’ve taken a ratchet strap here and ratcheted it around the cage. I’m going to pick up on my shock and pull it out of the A-arm.
Once I’ve done that I’m going to get it up as high as it’ll go and tighten my strap up.
Then I’ll take my caliper and lay it up here on top of the frame just to get it out of the way for the time being. Then we will pick up on our A-arms and wiggle them to get our sway bar link bolt out.
And then we are going to remove the lower ball joint hardware.
Pull our bolt out right out. Pick up and wiggle the knuckle as you’re pulling down on the A-arm. A lot of times you can just tap it out with your hand.
[3:24] Then we’re going to pick all of the way up on our A-arm and slide our axle out of the knuckle. I like to rotate my tie rod so my stud is sticking up like this and I just let my axle rest on the tie rod. That way it doesn’t have a bunch of tension on it or anything like that.
Then we’ll remove our upper ball joint bolt, slide it out, and slide the knuckle off.
Once we’ve done that we’ll go to the front fascia with a T40. We are going to remove the following screws—this one and this one—and then the same hardware on the opposite side.
[4:22] Once we’ve removed the hardware, we’ll grab a hold of the fascia here and just pull it right off the machine. As you can see we have some winch wires running down here—just disregard those. We’ve previously had a winch on this machine.
The main thing we are looking for is right here. This is going to be our upper, forward-most A-arm nut.
So we’re going to grab an 18 mm socket and 18 mm wrench. We’re going to start removing all of the hardware from our A-arms.
Then we’re going to go right here on our upper A-arm, to the rear-most bolt, and we’re going to remove it. It’s actually going to be a 16 mm instead of an 18.
[5:14] So now that we have our nuts removed from all of our hardware, we’ll wiggle our A-arms and pull the bolts out. Then remove the A-arm and set these aside. Same thing on the lowers. Wiggle them and pop our bolts out.
Set these aside as well. We’re going to repeat all of these steps, except for the fascia, for the opposite side.
This is the time where, if you’re reusing your factory ball joints and bushings, you’re going to press your old ball joints out of your A-arms. Today we offer heavy-duty bushings as well as heavy-duty ball joints for our SuperATV arms.
We’re going to upgrade so we’re going to show you how to install brand new ball joints and brand new bushings into your new SuperATV High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms.
[6:15] We’ve got our new ball joints here. We’re going to flip our lower A-arm upside down because the stud of our ball joint is going to need to face up, just like this.
I like to go around and make sure my ball joint is as centered as possible. Another thing you can do is take a hammer and put your socket on top of it, like this, and give it a smack once it’s lined up—just to ensure it’s going in straight.
I’m pretty confident I’m going to get this ball joint pressed in straight today, so I’m going to lay it here on the press. I have a piece of steel tubing here that’s large enough that it’s going to go around the ball joint housing and where the ball joint’s going to come through. Then I just have another piece of steel here that I’m just going to set on top of my A-arm, in order to get it pressed in.
You can use anything—I mean, we could use this socket right here—anything that’s going to go around it. And it looks like we may have to end up using our socket because we ran out of room.
[7:14] We’re starting to press it down and the A-arm is being held in place. I like to go around and take a look to make sure that my ball joint is going in straight. It looks like it’s going in straight so we’re going to keep pressing.
There’s a part here that if you know the sounds of your press, if you’ve used it a lot, you can tell if you’re binding up. If it’s in a bind, you know it’s about to go in sideways or anything like that.
So we’re going to continue pressing down and listen to make sure it’s going in straight.
As you can see there, you could watch it and you could hear it. It went straight in, no issues. You can look all the way around and you may have a little bit of fragmentation from the inside of your A-arm. That’s pretty standard when you press a ball joint in. If you have an excessive amount, there’s an issue. That means you’ve pressed your ball joint in crooked.
[8:17] Now we’re going to grab our snap ring and head over here. Grab our snap ring pliers and get it installed onto the A-arm.
Sometimes you can get them to snap into place by hand. If not, take a little flat-head screwdriver and be super careful not to hit the boot. Just go around and tap it down a little bit. Most of the time you hit it once and it’ll go ahead and fully seat.
Look at it and make sure it’s fully seated in the snap ring groove. Ours is, so we’re good to go.
[8:55] Here’s the point where, if you’re taking your factory bushings out of your A-arms, you would install them into the new SuperATV A-arms.
It’s pretty easy to get the bushings out. Follow the steps that we’re going to use to install the bushings, but backwards, to remove the bushings.
We’re going to grab two of our bushings. We’re going to grab two of our wear plates. Then we’re going to grab a sleeve.
First thing we’ll install is going to be the bushings. A lot of times you can pop these in by hand, like that one. Make sure it’s fully seated—that one is fully seated by hand. Make sure it’s in the groove. That one is fully seated as well.
Now we’re going to grab our sleeve and slide it right in there. You want it to be equal on both sides. As you can see, we got all of these in with no issues by hand.
Then we’re going to grab our wear plate. You’re going to have a flat and you’re going to have a beveled side. The flat needs to go inside the A-arm and that O-ring should just snap right into place.
We’ll do this for both sides of the pivot block. So this pivot block’s done—this is the easy one to do.
[10:14] Now this one over here is the one that can be kind of tricky to get. As you can see, this one already has a bushing in it.
When you go to install this bushing, just tap it in from the inside. So you’ll tap it right in and then grab one of your internal snap rings.
Like I said, you’ll knock your bushing right into there. It’ll be the same bushing that you would use for the rest of them—it’ll just look like that. Tap it right in and then you’ll take this snap ring right here, this internal retaining ring. You’ll angle one side of it down into the groove and then you’ll rotate and twist until that snaps into place.
So that is already installed on our A-arm.
[10:59] There is two different kinds of wear plates. The wear plates that have the lips on them are going to be the ones that go into the smaller pivot block. And obviously, these only go in one way. This side right here goes into the A-arm. Then firmly press on it and make sure the wear plate fully seats inside of the arm.
So this A-arm is done. We’ll just need to install our grease zerk on the bottom. You’ll want to install your straight on the large pivot block. It’s super easy. You’ll just take your wrench and your socket, and make sure you don’t fully tighten it.
[11:40] The lower A-arm’s done. We’re going to set it over here next to the machine. Then repeat all of these steps for the rest of your A-arms.
Now we have our A-arms all prepped and ready to get installed. It doesn’t matter if you start with the upper or lower A-arm—either way, they both have to be installed.
We’ve got our upper A-arm here, so we’re going to make sure we grab the proper hardware. Remember for our upper A-arm, the rear-most bolt is going to be the 16 mm head bolt here. Then we’ll grab one of the longer two—you’ll have two longer bolts. These are both going through the longer portion on your A-arms. On the lower it’s going to be a pivot block. Up here it’s fixed obviously.
Once our upper A-arm is lined up and in place, we’re going to grab our hardware and slide into position here.
[12:40] With this rear-most upper A-arm bolt, I like to barely get my thread sticking through, then I grab my nut and slide it back there on the backside. Then I like to go ahead and grab a hold of the bolt if you can get it to spin. Sometimes you can’t spin it.
Then we’ll grab our front A-arm bolt, just like that. Get our nut started out here as well.
Now let’s grab our knuckle and side it into position here.
Grab an A-arm bolt and make sure it’s all lined up. Get our nut started. Pick up on our A-arm and we’ll grab our axle and slide it right into position.
[13:51] Now we’re going to install our lower A-arm the same way we installed our upper.
Once we have our bolts through, we’re going to get our nuts started. Then we’re going to fully tighten the hardware that secures our A-arms to the frame.
Now we’ll grab our lower A-arm and attach it to our knuckle. Slide it up here into place until the ball joint lines up. Put your bolt through and we’ll go to the backside and get our nut started.
[14:28] Then we’re going to grab our caliper and lay it up underneath the shock, because it has to be underneath the shock when it’s installed. We’ll just have it laid into place there, but obviously we’re not going to fully attach it just yet.
Then we’ll pick up on our A-arm to line our shock up.
Once we have our nut started, we’ll go to our sway bar linkage. We’re going to line it back up, slide our bolt through, and put our nut on.
[15:11] We’ll grab our tie rod end and slide it into the steering arm here on the knuckle. Get the nut started for that.
Then we’re going to grab our hub and slide it into place. We’ll take our caliper and slide it onto our rotor. Get our hardware started for our brake caliper.
We’ll grab our axle washer, as well as our axle castle nut here, and get that started.
[16:03] You want to fully tighten all of your hardware and install all of your cotter pins. Repeat all of these steps for the opposite side. Reinstall your front fascia.
That’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s High Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on the RZR PRO XP. For more information on these A-arms or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time!
