Length: 13:13
Created: December 2, 2020
Are you looking to get more clearance on the front of your Maverick Sport? SuperATV’s got you covered with our heavy-duty high-clearance A-arms, and today we’re going to show you how to get them installed.
[00:16] First, remove your front wheels and tires. We’ve already done this. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Then remove the castle nut. Get this castle nut off here and the two washers. Then remove the brake caliper.
Grab the hub and slide it off. Disconnect our tie rod. Remove the cotter pin out of that as well. Remove the sway bar linkage. You have an 18 mm bolt head inside the A-arm here and an 18 mm nut. Take your nut off and remove the nut off your shock.
Pick up your arm and remove your bolt out of your shock. Then get something to tie your shock up here. Pick up on your arm and slide the hardware out of your sway bar link. Then remove the lower ball joint bolt. Then pick up on our A-arm and try to remove the lower ball joint here. If it doesn’t come loose, sometimes you have to take a rubber mallet and tap on it to loosen it.
Pick your A-arm up and slide your axle out. You can take your axle on your tie rod. It should sit right there. Now spin the knuckle around. I like to take an extension and slide it up through here to get it on my 18 mm socket. Then I use my impact to make my nut loose. A lot of times, these knuckles will be stuck. If it gets stuck, you’ll take one hammer and lay the face of it up against here. Then take another hammer and smack it, and it should come free. Just pull it off and set it aside.
Then get all the A-arm bolts. There are two lowers. Get both the nuts off of there and pop your bolts out. Then remove the lower A-arm. It’s a good idea to have some help with the upper A-arm. Take an extension and go through this hole here inside the cab. Get it on the head and have somebody hold a wrench on the nut. If you can’t get somebody to help you just use two wrenches. You can loosen your nut enough to thread it off, then lift up on the arm and slide the bolt into the hole. For this one, remove the nut like you did for the other three bolts. Then remove your upper A-arm.
[04:21] Next, we’re going to press some new ball joints into our new SuperATV arms. You can use your factory ball joints, but we decided to go ahead and upgrade today. It doesn’t matter what you use to press your ball joint in. This lower tube down here is larger than this diameter of the ball joint, so it’s going to slide right through. On top, we have a 36 mm socket which slides onto the edge here really nicely. Then we just have a flat bearing removal tool here.
Start pressing it in. Look it over really well. Make sure that snap ring groove is good and exposed. Once you have your ball joint all the way in, you’ll just want to repeat these steps for the other arms.
Now that you have your ball joints pressed in, grab the boot and the glue that’s provided in the kit. Take the glue and go right around this outer edge. You don’t need to put too much of it. Make sure that you wear gloves when you use this glue. Don’t let it make direct contact with your skin.
Once you have a good layer, take the boot and slide it down and make sure it’s full seated all the way around. There should be a little bit of glue poking out. While we’re letting that dry, install the snap ring up here. Make sure it’s snapped all the way down in the groove all the way around.
This ball joint is good and ready to go. We’ll just repeat the same steps for the rest of our three A-arms.
[06:11] Before we install our A-arms, get the zerks and install them. The straight zerks go in the lower A-arm. The 90-degree zerks go in the upper A-arm.
With the zerks installed, cut the zip ties off the A-arms. Start with the lower A-arm. Get it slid into position here. Grab the hardware and get the bolts slid into position. Then get the nuts started.
Next, we’ll install the upper arm. Make sure that when you install this that your brake line stays just like this. Get the hardware and slip it through on one side. Same on this side. Get the nut started and fully tighten all four of our arm tab bolts.
[07:48] Now grab the knuckle, washer, and nylock nut for the upper ball joint. Slide it onto the upper ball joint just like that. Get the washer installed and then the nylock nut. Run that in by hand, then grab an extension and socket. Slide it on there. I like to pull on the side of this ball joint. That way, it keeps it in the socket so it doesn’t spin.
Then, fully tighten the ball joints. Grab the cotter pin and install it. Now lift up on the upper A-arm and slide the axle back into the knuckle. Take the caliper and run it up through the center of the A-arm here. We can leave it hanging out of the way for the time being.
Grab the lower A-arm, then pick up on the upper A-arm and the knuckle so you can get the ball joint stud lined up. You may need to give it a little tap with the rubber mallet. Start your nut on the bolt.
Grab the sway bar hardware. Run it through and maneuver it around until it lines up. Get the nut installed on that hardware. Now loosen the shock and get it lined up. You might have to rotate the shock a little bit. Get the bushing straight and put the nut on it.
Grab the tie rod and spin the knuckle to get it into place. Then push it through. Grab the hub and slide it on. Make sure that if you’re running washer that you remember to reinstall them. Grab the caliper and slide it into position. Then get both bolts installed. Install the brake like clips to your brake line. Then use the brake line hardware to get them started into the two tapped holes.
Now go through and tighten up all your hardware. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Repeat the same steps for the opposite side, and that’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s forward offset high clearance A-arms on this Can-Am Maverick Sport.
For more information on these arms or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
