Created: March 10, 2020
Are you tired of getting your trailing arms hung up? Well SuperATV’s got the fix with our heavy-duty high-clearance trailing arms. And today I’m gonna show you how to get them installed on this Polaris RZR Turbo. So let’s get to it.
Now we’re back here at the rear of the machine. First, remove your rear wheel and tire. Once you’ve done that, disconnect the shock and sway bar link. Remove the nut off the sway bar link. If you’re having issues getting your sway bar link removed, just go and disconnect the sway bar link on the other side as well. We’ll disconnect it and then we’ll pick up on our trailing and and remove the bolt. Then let the trailing arm come down.
Then remove the cotter pin out of our castle nut on the axle. We’ve already done that so we’ll remove our nut here. Remove the nuts off the radius arms bolts for the uppers and lowers. Pick up on the trailing and the bolts will slide right out. I like to take my bolts and stick them right back through the radius arms so our bushings don’t fall out. You may have to pull the trailing arm away a little bit.
Now we’ll remove the brake caliper bolts. Let the caliper hang down, then you can flip it up here. We’ll be removing all the brake lines off the trailing arms anyway. Then wiggle the hub to remove it. If it gets stuck, you can use a rubber mallet and tap on the end of the axle shaft and tap on the hub. Slip the hub off. Once it’s off, pull the trailing arm away enough to get your axle out. Remove the axle. Don’t let it hang and crease the boot making it more prone to tear.
Remove the bearing carrier off the trailing arm. Remove all the hardware and remove the carrier. Now go through and remove all the brake line clips from the trailing arm. Now take the caliper and set it out of the way on your lift. We also tied up our shock to get it out of the way.
The last thing you need to do to get your trailing arm off of your machine is to disconnect the bolt up here on the frame. If you’re running an aftermarket skid plate, you’ll need to loosen the hardware on this section so you can pull it down and get a socket and wrench on there to loosen it. Once it’s loose, pick up on the trailing arm, remove your hardware, and slide your trailing arm out.
Next, get your new trailing arm and get it installed. They will be a zip tie holding your bushings in. Cut that off. Then we’re going to slide it into the channel in the frame where we removed our factory trailing arm. Once you have it in place, just reach through and make sure it’s lined up. Once it’s attached, grab all the hardware to secure the bearing carrier to the new trailing arm. Slide the bolt through, then your washer and nut. Repeat that for the rest of the holes, then fully tighten the hardware.
Now, reinstall the axle. This axle is new, but on a used axle you’ll want to plunge it to make it go in easier, or you can tap it in with a rubber mallet. Now pick up on the trailing arm and get the axle started into the wheel bearing. Take the upper radius arm and make sure your bushings are still on, then slide your bolt through just like that. Start your nut.
Next, we’ll reattach our hub. Once you have your hub on, get the axle nut and washer or washers and install the castle nut. Run it up until it lines up. Then put the cotter pin in. Bend it up and out of the way. Take the caliper and slide it on. Take the two 15 mm brake caliper bolts and get them lined up and started. Now fully tighten the brake caliper bolts.
Grab the lower radius arm and attach it. Line it back up in the pocket and get the nut started. Now reattach the shock and sway bar link. I like to take the sway bar link and get it started down into the pocket on the trailing arm right here. That way, when you lift up, everything will line up perfectly.
Grab this bolt out of the hardware kit. It’s the new shock bolt. It’s a little bit longer due to the trailing arm being wider. Put it all the way through and get this nut started on the backside. Whenever you reattach your sway bar linkage, make sure your sway bar link is on the inside facing towards the motor on the sway bar. Go through and fully tighten all your hardware, then we’ll attach our brake lines.
Get the new brake line clips and hardware from the hardware kit. Then attach them to the trailing arm. Go through and tighten up all your brake lines and adjust them to where they need to be.
Then repeat all these steps for the opposite side.
And there you have it. That’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s high clearance trailing arms on this RZR Turbo. For more information on these trailing arms or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 and check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
How to Install High Clearance Front A-Arms on a Can-Am Maverick
How To Install Honda Talon High-Clearance Trailing Arms
How to Install the RIDE System Rear Steering Kit on a Polaris Ranger XP 1000
How to Install a Polaris RZR XP Turbo Carrier Bearing
How to Install SuperATV's A-Arms On a Kawasaki Teryx KRX 1000
How to Mount ATV Tires