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How to Install Keller Ball Joints with Todd Keller

By Sara Wines | How-To on August 3, 2022
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Length: 3:37

Published: August 3rd, 2022


    Hello, I’m Todd Keller. Today we’ll talk about the Keller Performance ball joint, its benefits, and a quick overview of an installation.

    An animation featuring the Keller Performance Product logo. It looks as if it's being etched into a steel panel.
    We’re obsessed with Keller Performance Products because they’re high quality and innovative.

    We have an A-arm that already has the base installed. The one we’re using has already been pressed, but this is what it looks like. This part is pressed into the A-arm.

    Todd Keller demonstrates where the ball joint is located.
    Ball joints are installed at the end of the A-arm.

    Once that’s pressed into the A-arm, you’ll use the pin and a spherical cup. The pin drops into the body of the joint, and the spherical cup drops on top of the pin.

    Todd inserts the ball joint into the upper tie rod and slides the spherical cup into place.
    The spherical cup fits snugly over the top of the pin.

    Then you install the cap. One of the biggest benefits of the Keller Ball Joint is that we’ve eliminated the snap ring. We have a screw-together design that captures the ball joint in the A-arm. We can guarantee 100% that you won’t have a snap ring failure with a ball joint like this.

    Todd shows how to Keller ball joints work without a snap ring as he screws the ball joint together.
    Keller Ball Joints eliminate the need for a snap ring, making them way more durable than OEM ball joints.

    After you’ve screwed the cap all the way down and tightened it to 150 ft-lb. of torque, it’s not coming out. Once it’s set, you’ll take a torque wrench and torque the cap to 150 ft-lb. and then you’re ready to begin the adjustment process.

    Todd waves a giant wrench around as he explains the ft-lb. of pressure needed to install Keller ball joints properly.
    Tightening the ball joint properly insures longevity.

    You’ll use an allen wrench to tighten the upper screw until it stops and then you’ll unscrew it about 1/16th of a turn. While holding the allen wrench in position, use a 3/4” combination wrench and snug the jam nut down to about 45 ft-lb.

    Todd uses an allen wrench and a 3/4" combination wrench to tighten the jam nut on top of the Keller ball joint.
    Hold the bolt steady with the allen wrench and tighten with the combination wrench.

    After you’ve done that, you should check for movement. You want to make sure the ball joint is free and you don’t want any binding. If so, you need to back it off and readjust.

    Todd grabs the bottom of the ball joint and wiggles it to show that there shouldn't be binding on the ball joint.
    The pin should move freely in your hand.

    Now that you have this properly adjusted and everything has been tightened to proper torque specs, it’s time to start greasing.

    This is called a “flush type grease circuit.” It requires a grease fitting for a flush-type zerk. So, if you’re at a local parts store, ask for a fitting for a “flush-type zerk.” A flush-type zerk looks like the end of a ball-point pen, or sharpened like a pencil.

    Todd holds a long, needle-like tool and explains that it's a flush-type zerk used to grease the ball joint.
    A flush-type zerk needs a narrow head to apply grease.

    Once you have one, snap it on your grease gun and put it right on the center. Press down it it and give it a few pumps. Move the pin around to get the grease moved around in the joint.

    Todd presses the grease zerk around the top of the ball joint.
    You can feel the pin begin to move around more easily as the grease enters the joint.

    After the joint is greased, then it’s time to put the boot on. Once you have the boot in position, take the grease needle again and shoot 2-4 pumps of grease in the boot. This helps lube and protect the joint from dirt and other contaminants into the ball joint.

    Todd presses the zerk into the boot to grease it too.
    Grease helps seal out contaminants that could enter the boot and degrade the joint over time.

    Once you’ve got some grease in the boot, you can snap it in position and secure it with zip ties. Then you’re ready to put the knuckle on and put the whole thing back together and go beat the BLEEP out of it.

    Todd has an impish grin on his face as he walks out of frame. The SuperATV logo flashes and glitches over the screen in a stylized way.
    Tip: Always keep a sense of humor handy.
    RELATED CONTENT: ball joints10 featured pros8 installation262
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