Created: May 1, 2018
Mickey here from SuperATV. Today we are going to start a clutch kit on a RZR 900 and this process is used generally across the board for all Polarises. This is our Ram1 clutch that we are going to be using today.
This kit comes with the with arms already set up. They are already pre-weighted. We dyno tested these for each kit that we design. This kit happens to be a performance kit. This kit also has additional weights if you want to do some fine tuning. As far as RPM or engagement we include all that in this kit. In this kit we also have two springs that we are going to be using.
We’re going to have a primary spring and a secondary spring that we will be installing in this kit, so with that let’s get started.
On this machine here it’s got an upgraded cover like the RZR 1000. So we are going to get started here. We’re going to remove this clamp, get this hose up out of our way. Now that the hose is out of the way, we have access to all of our screws on this cover. We’re going to remove all these cover bolts.
Now we have all of the cover loose, now we just have to work it out of here. Rotate it up. Work it around this bar here. They make these things barely fit. Just rotate it up till you get it out.
All right, this is where we’re going to put our primary spring and this is where our secondary spring goes. We will get some tools and get that taken apart. We are going to remove this bolt that holds the primary on. We will also remove the bolt that holds the secondary on. That also loosens the belt up. Pull that bolt out and on this clutch kit here, if you pull real lightly there’s a washer sitting in here. you don’t want to loose that. In almost every 900 kit they have these.
Pull your belt off, then pull your secondary off. Get some tools for removing the primary. We have our clutch removal tool that screws in there. Screw it in by hand and then we have an impact. Screw it in until it is loose. If you don’t have an impact it’ll break loose. We have this rod included with it. It goes in there and then you can use a long extension bar to break that loose. Okay let’s go to the bench now and we’ll start taking this thing apart and upgrading it.
Okay, here we are on the table with our primary clutch and our secondary clutch. We will start with the secondary clutch here. Go ahead and get the spring changed on it. In this kit we do change the secondary spring. This is a spring compressor and SuperATV does offer this if you don’t have one.
We’re just going to put all this together and tighten it down because this cover is under pressure by the spring. This needs to be brought down to where it just takes a little pressure off of this plate here. I’m going to remove these bolts. There is five of them on this one. Some units only have four bolts. You have to get these bolts removed.
We just need to let the pressure off your spring now. Just kind of go slow, it is under a lot of pressure, you just want to be safe. We get all of this taken apart and set it aside right there. I am going to pull this cover off, just a little cap with a ring on it. We will take out the old spring, set it aside and put the new spring back in.
Just want to make sure to look when you get all of this apart. You don’t want to have any big chunks of mud or anything down in there. If it does you want to make sure that you get all of that clean. Same way with the inside of the cap.
Basically all you have to do now is reverse the process. Put your cap back on the spring compressor pretty quick on this unit. Just tighten everything back down until your plate touches and then we will put our bolts back in. It’s nothing to be scared about, pretty forward going with this compression tool and again we do supply that from SuperATV if you don’t have one. It is a pretty safe tool.
Just get your plate lined back up through your holes. You want to hand start all these things first. Make sure you have them all lined up right. I’m all in, and get them hand started and then we’ll tighten them up.
Then we will talk about before we put this back on the machine, talk about some of the stuff we need to look at as far as maintenance stuff before you put it all back in as far as cleaning. You almost need to clean the clutches about as much as you’re doing machines because if this doesn’t work right then nothing works right.
I need to set these at the factory spec. For this demonstration, we’re not going to do that today because we’re going to take all of this back apart later. So after you get your five bolts back in you get a port now. Just take your press tool back off and your secondary spring is changed.
I’ll show you some of the stuff that we need to check real quick after we get this off. On the secondary here, you just want to check this ramp, this is the helix part on this 900. The helix is built into it. Some of the other ones have external helixes if you actually remove them and where we took the cap off on the other side, but you want to check and make sure that there’s no gouges or any place bad on the helix in these areas here. What actually touches them are these rollers right here. You want to check to make sure there’s no flat spots on these and you also want to clean this up.
You want to check your surface of your sheaths on both the inner and outer. You want to make sure there’s no gaps or gouges in it. If there are, you need to scuff them off. I suggest Scotch-Brite. Clean all this up when you got it all apart. Soap and water and Scotch-Brite, just clean that off real good. You’ll get much better belt grip. So that’s it for the secondary. Don’t lose your washer, it goes in that area there. Let’s move on to the primary now.
I’m going to use the same process we did on the secondary. We are going to use our spring compressor. Set it up just like we did before. Tighten it down, take a little pressure off the cover bolts. Screw that down a little bit, take the pressure off. Take these six bolts out. That’s a good sign that when you take these bolts off this drops down. That shows that there’s nothing internally wrong with your slides. That’s something that we will talk about when we get a little further into this like we did in the secondary.
Just pull all these bolts out. Get them out of your way. Alright same thing, just take your spring compressor loose and we take the cap off here. Set that aside. Purvis does a really good job. I’ll show you this, hopefully you can see this there’s an X marked on this cover right here. This is an indicator of where you need to line everything back up. This is a piece right here, it’s called a spider, it’s got three legs on it. It also has an X. When you put it all back together after taking it apart, you want to make sure all these are lined up. This also has an X down in there and I’ll show you that once we remove these arms. Hopefully we can get a shot of that.
So, in this case we’re going to go ahead and take this spring out and we will set it aside. We won’t be using it now. We need to take these arms out because with our kit we have our pre-weighted new arms. So we will set them out there. We also provide a new hardware kits, bolts, and stuff. So we will get them opened up and we’ll take all this apart. Should be three bolts and three nuts. We’ll note that these are standard bolts. Instead of using metric you will use American.
Just remove the nuts and the bolts, set all them aside and pull your arm out. Pull one out of a time, then you’ve got to turn around and you go put the SuperATV arms in with the new bolts. Installing the bolts in the same direction that you’re taking it out. They are all put in from the same direction, so you see on this side the bolt goes in this side and the nuts on this side. You need to make sure they all go in the same way. We’ll just tighten these up where they are just snug, we do use nylocks. So, you just run them in there, you can hand tighten them. Maybe get all of these out. Tighten this up a bit. Do the last one.
As I was saying earlier with the X, while we got this arm out, down inside here. If we can get a shot of that down inside there’s an X. Right in there, you can just barely see it. Those X’s need to all line up when we put all of this back together. That’s pretty important. That’s the way this clutch was balanced that way so to prevent vibration. That’s why it’s important that all three of these arms are weighted exactly the same, is for balancing.
Okay, now that we have our arms installed, just a couple of little maintenance things you want to look at real quick. Each one of these arms lay on one of these rollers and you just want to check each of them to make sure there’s no bad spots in them and they do roll rather freely. While you are at that point, you just want to grab ahold of the top and this part here and you just want to shake it a bit. If you’ve got a lot of movement in this area here you want to see about replacing these buttons and in some cases you may need to get a new clutch. They have been making these so you don’t have to rebuild them anymore or it’s just simpler to get a new clutch.
Alright, well it’s time to put the spring back on, we got the arms installed, ready to put the cover back on. Our X is here in front. We’re going to line our X up with that. We’re going to put our compressor back on, tighten everything back down.
Then like the secondary we did we checked out the sheaves and stuff. It’s good to clean this up a little bit. Blow the dust out of it, we get a lot of belt dust and a lot of belt grease. Could cause a lot of belt slippage, so you want to make sure that you get that taken care of.
Alright, so we got that done here. We will put our six bolts back in. It’s like changing a car tire, you want to rotate every other one as you go around tightening these up. You do want to check your service manual for what the torque are on these. Like I said we’re just doing a demonstration so we will not torque these today.
So the primary is finished as far as the clutch kit goes. We will just take the compression tool off now and I’ll show you a couple of things you need to look at as far as the sheave and stuff goes as far as maintenance before we put this thing back together.
Far as the primary goes, you want to check the sheaves again. Make sure there’s no gouges or anything on either sheath. Run your hand around there and again if you have it apart you might as well take the time to clean these with some Scotch-Brite, soap, and water. Just clean them up really good, blow the dust off of them. It’s just going to make the machine run really good.
Also some of these bearings are one-way, it only runs one-way. This happens to be a two-way bearing so it does roll both directions. You want to check that, make sure it is good and it should have a little bit of play in it to go back and forth like that.
Okay, I think that is the biggest thing that we want to take care of today. The biggest problem we run into is a lot of people, I don’t know if you can see this, this has a little small groove right down here at the bottom. That’s pretty common but a lot of people want to run around at high gear all the time at low speeds and it causes the belt to slip in this area here because it doesn’t grab real good. So, if you are running below 30 miles an hour you always want it running low and if you are going to be running faster than that you want to have it running in high. So, if you don’t want to ruin your clutch, run it low if you are running low speeds.
Alright, I think it’s time to start putting this baby back together. Let’s go back to installing it.
Alright, now we’ve got everything off of the bench and we are ready to put it back together, we’ll put the primary back on. Don’t put it on the taper there and you want to give it just a little bit of a spin, make sure it’s on good and tight. See that’s good.
Let’s go back in and screw it in a little bit. Again, you want to tighten that up and you want to torque out to the standard for that bolt size for this primary clutch here. Well, make sure you do that. You don’t want it falling off.
We’ll go ahead and put secondary on. Sometimes after you take it apart you need to wiggle it around a little bit to get it to slide on and again this is very important on this 900. It has this spacer that goes in there.
I did forget to show you something. This also has an X on it and I will show you the other side where you can see it after you get it installed. On this one, I’ve already got a pink mark on it and it’s got an X right there and when you put your power sheave on you want to also line up that mark. Again, it’s got an X right there and when we line that X up there. On this 900 it’s a little bit different then some of your other models.
Well, get your belt on the primary. Get it on the primary good then put it on the secondary again. Got the X right there, we want to make sure your X is lined up. We’ll put it on there, you’ll have to kind of mess with this belt a little bit to get the splines to line up with your shaft. You may have to put it in drive. Got it started on there.
Once you get it on the splines, go ahead and put it in park because we need to rotate this around to get that belt to come up. Actually, you want to get this in park so you can spin this and just kind of push it in. You should be able to get that belt to ride up, up the sheave some.
Alright, go ahead and we will start the bolt. You don’t want this extremely tight. Just a little more pressure than what I could with my hand. So we can spin that and get that belt to come up. Spin it. If you can watch this belt, should come up a little bit and you want to turn it a couple of times around there. Tighten it up a little bit more. See how the belt is starting to come up a little bit more. Now, if you can see that right there, the top of your ribs are starting to come up out. That’s a good thing to have, that means we are seated pretty good.
Go ahead and tighten it up against the preload on the spring. That is pretty much the clutch kit. Spin it around, just to make sure everything looks right. Everything is spinning good, you’re sliding on the bearing on the primary.
After you get it all back together we just need to spin this a couple of times to make sure everything looks alright. If everything does, just kind of look to make sure there’s no dirt or anything on this seal. Then we are ready to put the cover back on, it’s that easy. This process applies across the board for most Polaris models. If you don’t have the tools we use today, we do offer these tools.
Check us out on the superatv.com website or give us a call. Thank you for watching.
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My 900 once it warm up it will try to keep pulling and you hold the brake and it will die and it doesn’t want to go in park or any other Gear could you explain to me what’s going on
Hey Verlin, thanks for reaching out! We’ll need to know what machine you’re running. You mentioned a 900. Is that a RZR or a Ranger? If you give us a call at 755-743-3427, we should be able to help troubleshoot the issue. We appreciate you tuning in!