Created: July 2, 2019
The first thing we’re gonna do is remove the front wheels and tires. Next, we’re gonna disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and the inner ball and socket. Our machine’s equipped with SuperATV’s heavy-duty tire rods but the same principles apply for factory tie rods.
We’re gonna put a wrench on the inner ball-and-socket or the inner tie rod we’re gonna take our jam that loose. Once you have the jam nut loose go ahead and thread the tire off of the inner tie rod. Then for the driver’s, side you’re only going to remove your tie rod end from the knuckle.
Next, we’re gonna remove the rack and pinion from the machine, and there you’re gonna have two short bolts on the passenger side and then three long bolts that will go through here on the driver’s side as well. Disconnect the steering shaft from the rack and pinion and then remove the rack and pinion.
Next we’re gonna be centering our rack so we’re going to get our boots off. Have to move the nuts and then the tie rods there. Just gonna twist and pull on these and they will just slide right out. We just want to sit on the side for the time being.
The next step is going to be to take a measurement from the face of the housing right here to the face of the inner ball and socket. There’s a few different ways to rotate your rack and pinion. The best way to do it is to have a steering shaft to put on the splines here and turn it, but we understand the not everybody’s gonna have a steering shaft laying around so you can put this back on here and very gently take a pair of vise grips and clamp it. You’re not gonna want to clamp it real tight because you don’t want to damage the splines there but just enough. See right there it benches it down and you can turn your rack.
So we’re going to rotate the rack as far as it’ll go. Looks like that’s all we got right there. So we’re going to take our measurement from here to here. We have a measuring scale that we’re using today. If y’all can see that it looks like it’sat a hundred and ten millimeters there. So we’re going to take a hundred and ten divided by two. Whatever that number is we’re gonna turn the rack all the way back in until we get it to that center point and then we’ll go to the opposite side and confirm our measurement.
So we rotated our rack-and-pinion back to the point where it was half of 110 millimeters which is 55. So we’ve got 55 on this side and then on this side you’re going to measure it a little bit differently. As you can see if you were to measure here your measurements going to be way off. You’re gonna have to stick your measuring scale inside of the rack as far as it’ll go to the housing and then you’re just going to measure to the face again of the inner ball and socket. So it looks like we’re at 55 on this side and 55 on that side that means our rack is good and centered.
We’re going to take a cap off here. We’re gonna grab the paint marker and we’re gonna mark it in a location where the shaft is visible as well as the rack is visible. That way while it’s in the machine we can most definitely see it from any angle. So we’re gonna mark it right about here. Should be pretty visible. It’s gonna run a big line all the way up. That’s good. We’re gonna be able to see that whenever we get it installed in the machine.
The next step is gonna be to install the steering stops. If you’d like to, the customer we’re install this rack and pinion for it today they want the steering stop so we’re gonna go ahead and install them. I’m just going to take one and then press it down onto the shaft of the rack and you’ll want to do that for both sides. And press it down on this side as well. Just make sure it’s good and fully seated.
So we’ve got those on there now we’re gonna go ahead and take our boots and reinstall them. It’s easier to do it here on the bench then do it while the rack’s on the machine. And steering stops—sometimes you’ll have to work your boot over top of it. Then you’re just gonna want to spin the boot around till it gets all the way up there so we have that one full we seated we’re going to grab our provided zip ties. You want to fully tighten that. We’ll do the same exact thing for the opposite side and whenever you’re done putting your boots on you want to go back through and make sure that your rack is still centered that is super crucial.
Make sure your steering wheel is centered. Now that we have our steering wheel centered, we’re going to install our new heavy-duty rack and pinion. As you slide it in there, get it lined up with the steering shaft and again make sure that your rack is still centered. Now that we have it started on there, hop back inside and make sure that the steering wheel did not move. So it looks like our steering wheel is still straight.
So now we’re gonna go ahead and grab our hardware kit. The long bolts will go in the same location but the long bolts came out of on your factory rack so they’re gonna all be right here on the driver’s side on the center portion of the rack. And then the two short bolts are gonna be on the passenger side on the bracket. N
Next we’re gonna grab our tie rods and install them to our inner ball-and-socket. You’ll just want to thread these up about half way because we’re gonna have to set the toe now that we’ve taken the tie rods off. Next we’re gonna grab our tie rod ends and install them to our tie rod making sure the textured side of it is facing outward. We’re gonna want to thread this in as well as the tie rod onto the inner ball and socket until it lines up with our knuckle or in our instance our backing plate because we’re running some GDP Portals on this machine. Looks like we’re pretty well lined up so we’re going to grab our misalignment bushings out of the hardware pack. Pop and then just like this. And we’re gonna grab our provided bolts. Drop them through there. Looks like we need to do a little bit more adjusting here. Then we’re gonna repeat the steps for the opposite side.
Next, we’re going to put our castle nut on our bolt. We’re running GDP portals today, so for our backing plate we’re going to use a nyloc nut. For any other application you would just use the castle. Once that’s on there, fully tighten it and again if you are using a castle nut you will want to install the cotter pin once you have this fully tightened.
Repeat the steps for the opposite side. Then make sure that all of our hardware we’ve previously installed is tight. You’re gonna leave your jam nuts loose and then you’re gonna install your wheels and tires and we’re going to set the toe.
We have Christian here helping us, so we’re gonna put our tape measure on the front of the tires—on the centerline of the tire. And we’re gonna make sure that our measurement in the front is exactly the same as the measurement in the rear. Looks like we have fifty seven and a quarter here in the front now we’re gonna go to the rear portion of the front tire do the same exact thing.
It looks like our measurement is exactly the same and the rear of the tire so we’re good to go. Now we’re going to lock down our jam nuts. If you were to need to make any adjustments, you’re just gonna grab your tie rod. And because we’re running SuperATV’s heavy-duty double adjustable tie rods all you have to do is turn it one way or the other to get your tire to toe in or toe out to make sure your measurements the same.
And that’show super easy it is to install SuperATV’s heavy-duty rack and pinion on the Polaris Ranger 900. For more information on this rack and pinion or any of SuperATV’s great products, give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and have a great day you.
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