Created: July 9, 2020
Hey everybody, today I’m going to be showing you how super easy it is to install one of SuperATV’s Rhino 2.0 Axles on this Honda Talon 1000R. So let’s jump right in.
[00:16] First, remove the wheels and tires. Then disconnect the brake caliper and shock. Now remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. I like to bend it it straight down, get it tapped up as much as I can, then use my side cuts to pry the cotter pin out. Now, remove the cotter pins from the tie tie rod end as well. Then remove the castle nut with a 30 mm socket.
Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint as well. Use a 19 mm socket to remove the nut off the stud. I like to take a ball-peen hammer and put the ball right here, then take another hammer and smack it a couple times to get the arm off the ball joint.
Use a 14 mm socket to remove the nut off the tie rod end. If the tie rod end doesn’t pull off, we’ll use the same technique using the two hammers. Put one hammer right here and it’ll pull right up out of there. Just like that.
Now, pick up the upper A-arm and remove the shock. Flip the shock up and lift the A-arm up as high as you can to get the axle out of the knuckle. Let the axle lay over on the tie rod. Now take ratchet strap and secure your A-arm and your shock up. If you do it right, you can hold the shock and the A-arm at the same time.
[02:54] Grab the axle and give it a couple pulls, and it’ll slide out just like that. One thing with this differential is if you don’t have an axle right there ready to go, you don’t want to remove it because it will leak oil.
So we’ve got our new Rhino 2.0 out of the box. It’s ready to be installed. One thing I always like to do when I’m installing any axle is find the C-clip and make sure the part that’s separated is facing toward the bottom.
Take the axle and insert it and find the sweet spot where it’ll go in. This one went in like butter. Sometimes, if they don’t want to go in, I’ll take a rubber mallet and smack it out here. Just give it a few taps. It’ll pop right in.
Remove the castle nut. As you can see, I’m holding onto this axle while I remove the nut. It’s very important to never let the axle hang. If you do, that’ll crease the boot, and once you crease that boot it’ll want to rip and tear on you.
[04:07] So I’ll slide my axle into the knuckle that’s strapped up with the A-arm. Now, take the pressure off everything, cut the strap loose and let it come down. Take the strap off. We won’t need it anymore. Then mate the upper and lower A-arms just like that. Take the castle nut for the lower ball joint and get that started. Pop the shock bolt in and start the nut on that as well. Put the tie rod back into position and put the nut on it. Put the hub back on.
Once the hub’s slid on, take the new washer and castle nut and hand tighten it up. take the brake caliper and slide it onto the rotor. Get the hardware all started. Now tighten up the castle nut. Take the new cotter pin that comes with your axle and drip it right down through the hole. Once you have it all lined up, get your side cuts and bend it up.
Tighten up the tie rod and put the cotter pin in. Tighten the shock bolt and lower ball join. Put the cotter pin in there.
Now we have our axle installed on the front and everything’s fully tightened. If you have to do it for the opposite side, just repeat these same exact steps.
[06:36] Moving onto the rear, first remove the rear wheels and tires. Tap the cotter pin out as much as possible then get a pair of side cuts to leverage it out the rest of the way. Remove the castle nut with a 30 mm socket. Then remove the brake caliper with a 14 mm socket. Slide the caliper off the hub.
Disconnect this radius arm and this radius arm. Make sure you don’t lose the hardware or washers. Sometimes this radius arm will get stuck. Just give it a couple smacks like that. Get this radius arm loose.
In order for this to flip down, get in here and take this 10 mm loose. Pull the trailing arm out and here’s our axle.
[03:18] You can pull it straight out just like that. You can get your axle reinstalled without taking your sway bar link loose, but I found it’s easier if you just go ahead and disconnect your link on both sides. It makes it easier to get in there.
With both disconnected, pick the sway bar up out of the way and grab this arm. Pull it up and use a ratchet strap to tie it up.
Now we have a clear shot to put in our new axle. Again, make sure our snap ring’s down and slide it in. Give it a couple tugs to make sure it’s in there. Remove the castle nut. Then pull the trailing arm out so you can slide the axle back into the knuckle.
[09:30] Now disconnect the strap and slide the lower radius arm on. Get the washer, put it on there. Get a nut to hold it in position. Grab the upper arm and the brake caliper and slide it back in position. Put the 10 mm bolt back in. Take the caliper and get it mounted back to the knuckle and tighten it up.
Grab this radius arm. Lift on it a little bit and give it a few taps by hand to slide it on. Put the washer and nut on. Grab the hub and put it on, lifting up on the axle. Install the new washer and castle nut. I like to tighten it up by hand a little bit so it kind of pulls that axle in position.
Now we’ll get both of our brake caliper bolts started. Now start going through and fully tightening up the hardware. Get the new cotter pin, drop it through and bend it up.
Fully tighten the brake caliper hardware then double check everything. Reconnect both sway bar links and slide them down into position. Get the nuts started and put the cotter pins back in. Make sure you get them nice and tight.
Now go through and make sure all your hardware’s tight and cotter pins are installed.
And that’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino 2.0 axles on this Honda Talon 1000R.For more information on these axles, or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.