Length: 9:11
Created: January 28, 2021
What’s up guys? Today we’re going to show you how super easy it is to change out an axle on this Kawasaki KRX 1000, and we’re going to upgrade to our Rhino 2.0 Axle.
As you can see, we already have a Rhino 2.0 in this machine, but the removal and installation of a factory axle to a Rhino Axle is going to be identical. So let’s get right to it.
First, Get a pair of side cuts and straighten out the cotter pin. Then pull it out. Now grab a 30 mm socket. You need to be careful here. The passenger side is right hand thread and the driver’s side is left hand thread.
[01:17] After you remove the axle nut, remove the two 14 mm bolts securing the brake caliper. Pull the brake caliper off and set it aside. Then remove the radius arm hardware. We’re doing this so our radius arm will pivot. Make sure we come here to this little cover. It’ll have a phillips head screw on top, bottom, and side. Remove the top and bottom. The side one is easy to strip, so roll this out of the way. That will give us access to the bolt head for the last radius arm.
Grab the radius arm and remove it along with the hardware. Stick the hardware back through so the bushings don’t fall out. Pick up on the trailing arm. Remove the upper. Now the hub wants to just slide off, so don’t lose this washer here.
Now remove the lower radius arm hardware and let it slide out of the way. Take your caliper and flip it over here. Then pull the trailing arm out to the side and flip your knuckle straight out like that. Next, plunge your axle straight in and then pull straight out.
[03:48] Once you have your axle out, it’s a good idea to inspect your bushings, bearings, and everything else while it’s torn down. Now we’ll install our axle. Take the C-clip on the axle and position it so the opening is facing down. Then put it on the transmission, get it lined up in the splines, then give it one abrupt shove right in.
[04:35] Next pull out on the trailing arm and work this back in. Sometimes these will want to fight you a little bit. It should slide right in no problem. For this part I like to take my brake caliper and lay it up there to make sure it’s in the right orientation.
Now get the lower radius arm slid into place and slide your bolt in. Lay the upper arm on it, and then grab the other lower radius arm. Work the trailing arm around to get everything lined up. Then get the upper radius arm bolted on. Just get the nuts started on all the hardware.
Grab the big shim that goes on the face of the wheel bearing. Then grab your hub, axle washer, and castle nut. Runt the nut up. Just hit it until the cotter keyhole is lined up. Put the cotter pin through and bend it.
[06:42] Next grab the brake caliper. This can be a pain on the KRX because pads can jump out. If you get to the point where you can’t get it back together, you can take this black allen-headed slider out. Then it’ll rotate up like this and you can pull it off this other slider.
Once you have the adapter off and your pads are out of the way, take a pair of needle-nose pliers and thread this all the way in. Once we have the pads lined up on the rotor, get both of the brake caliper bolts threaded in and installed. Then line up both slider bolts and make sure the boot is in good shape. Next, fully tighten the caliper and slider bolts. Make sure you get this pretty tight here.
[08:36] Now go through and make sure all the radius arm hardware is tight, reinstall the cover here using the OEM hardware. Once you have everything put back together and fully tightened, that’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s Rhino 2.0 Axle on this Kawasaki KRX 1000.
For more information on these axles or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call or check us out online at SuperATV.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
