Created: March 24, 2020
Hey everybody, today we’re going to be showing you how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino Prop Shafts on this Can-Am Maverick X3.
First thing we’re going to do is open the door and start removing the seat by removing the 2 13mm bolts on the front and then our 18mm nuts on the back. We’ll flip our seat cushion up and remove our nuts. Grab ahold of the seat and pull it up. Make sure that you reach down and pop your seat belt plugs out of the plastic. Then the next thing we’re going to do once we have the seat pulled out is remove the 16mm bolts holding our seatbelt on. Once that’s removed from the machine, we can remove the seat completely. Then we’ll repeat the steps for the passenger side.
Next we’re going to start removing our panels. Just grab ahold of them and pull them out. We’ll do this for both sides. Now we’re going to remove the 2 15mm bolts that carry the carrier bearing to the frame of the machine. Those will be located here. Once you remove your side panel, you’ll see your bearing carrier. Then repeat these steps for the opposite side.
Once our bolts are removed, we’re going to head to the front where we’ll remove the prop shaft from the pinion shaft from the front differential. We’ll need a 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench. I’m going to get my wrench positioned in here on the head of the bolt and then I’ll go to the opposite side and take the nut off the bolt. Once we have the nut removed, we’ll pull out the bolt. Then we’ll grab the carrier bearing, slide it over. As soon as we slid it over, our prop shaft came off the pinion shaft in the front. Then we’ll need to separate our two shafts. Make sure they slide apart. If they don’t, you might have to get a pry bar and work them a little bit and maybe spray them down. Sometimes they can be a little bit of a pain to get apart.
As you can see, sometimes they get stuck on the splines and are really hard to get apart. We had to take a pry bar and smack it to get it off. Once you’ve got them separated, take your front prop out and set it aside.
So once you have the prop slide over to where you can get in it, remove the snap ring from inside. Then remove the bearing and continue sliding the prop forward out the front of the machine. Slide it as far forward as you can from the inside and then come out to the front and spin it until you’re able to get it the rest of the way out.
The next step is to grab your rear prop shaft. We’ve already removed the snap ring from the prop shaft. If you haven’t, go ahead and grab some snap ring pliers to do that. Then get some brake clean and a rag and spray down the bearing surface. Wipe it down until it’s good and clean. Once you’ve got that clean and dry, grab the green retaining compound and apply an even coat all around the bearing surface. Once this is on, make sure you’ve got the prop standing straight up and grab the carrier bearing making sure the grease ring is facing down and slide it on. Then we take this tool here, a piece of steel just a hair bigger in diameter than the shaft itself, that fits on the inner race of the bearing and then give it a couple smacks until the snap ring is exposed. Once we get the bearing all the way down to where we can get the snap ring on, we’ll grab our snap ring pliers to help us get it into place so that it’s fully seated.
So now we can start sliding our prop shaft back in right over top of the axle in between the A-arms. Rotate it around and then once you’ve got it slid in, you can come around to the inside of the machine and continue sliding it in. Once you’ve got it slid all the way in, bring it back to the rear and then walk back to the rear of the machine. Now you can slide it on to the output shaft of the transmission. You want to make sure that the fixed yoke of the prop shaft is sticking straight up because we’re going to oriente the front 180 degrees opposite from the way that we orient the rear.
Once we have it started, we can go back to the inside and grab the prop shaft and slide it straight back. Then put a couple pumps of grease into the splines to help us get the prop shaft on a little easier.
Now that we’ve got the prop slid back to where it needs to be, we’re going to get our front prop and pump a couple pumps of grease in it. It’ll again help it slide in a little easier for us. Then we’ll remove our bolt out of the front prop shaft and keep it handy for later use. Now we’re good to install the front prop shaft. Remember, on the rear prop shaft, we had it straight up and down on the fixed end so we’re going to rotate this one so that our fixed ends are sitting just right like this.
So we’re going to go ahead and just feed this prop shaft up there from the inside to where we can get ahold of it. Then we can go to the front and reach through and grab ahold of it, then slide it onto the pinion shaft on the front diff. Once we have the prop slid into place, we can get our bolt through and then go to the other side to get our nut on it so it can’t come out.
Then we’ll go back inside and get our props connected. Then you’ll need to wipe off a little bit where the lower portion of our carrier bearing is going to ride. Then we’re going to make sure that the lower portion of our carrier looks like this, so that the non-machined side is facing toward the rear and then the cut out part for the bearing to ride is facing the front. We’ll just pick our props up and slide it into position. We’ll put some blue lock tight on 2 of our mounting bolts that came in the kit. Go ahead and get the bolts hand started for both sides. Before we fully tighten, we’ll want to go back to the rear and make sure that our prop shaft is covering all the splines. Once you’ve done that for the rear and the front, you can tighten down the carrier bearing bolts. Now do a double check and make sure that the grease ring and carrier bearing are lined up, bolts are straight across from each other, and then you’ll be ready to put the housing cap on.
With the top portion of the carrier bearing, the machined side and the SuperATV side should be facing forward. Go ahead and get it laid into place like that and then grab your lock tight and get a little bit on each of the bolts, then hand start them on both sides. Then we’ll grab an allen wrench to make sure they’re good and started. Then we can go ahead and fully tighten them. Whenever you tighten these, you want to try to tighten them in an X pattern. Do a double check on this once you’re done. Unfortunately, with the X3, you’re not going to be able to get a torch wrench in there so you’ll have to be pretty careful about double checking the tightness.
Now we’re going to make sure that the bolts holding the carrier bearing to the frame of the machine are torqued to 45 ft. lbs. We’ve already done this, so we’re going to grab our grease gun and put about 4 pumps into the bearing. Then we’ll go ahead and fully tighten our pinch bolt up front and reinstall our panels and our seats, and that’s all there is to it.
There you have it. That’s how super easy it is to install SuperATV’s Rhino Driveline Prop Shafts and Carrier Bearing in this Can-Am Maverick X3. For more info on our prop shafts or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427 or check us out online at superatv.com. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you next time.
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How often do we grease the carrier bearing housing
Hey Scott! This is a basic maintenance part, so you can really grease as much as needed. Check it whenever you do a basic check of all your bearings, ball joints, brake pads, and bushings. The grease line should make it easier to know. If it doesn’t take any more grease, you’re good to go for another couple hundred miles, or 2 months or so, depending on which comes first. Thanks for tuning in with us!