Created: March 4, 2020
Are you looking for a high-clearance, heavy-duty A-arm with a lifetime warranty for your KRX 1000? Well SuperATV’s got you covered, and today, we’re going to show you how to get them installed.
First, remove the front wheels and tires. We’ve already done this. Next, remove the two bolts securing the brake caliper to the knuckle. Disconnect the brake line from the knuckle, then lay it up and out of the way.
Grab a 27 mm socket and remove the nut from the axle. What I like to do is thread my nut on like this so that we won’t hit the axle shaft, then take a mallet and smack it. The rotor still won’t come off, so I’m going to take a hammer and tap on the allen-headed bolt. Rotate and continue doing that until the rotor comes off.
Grab the washer and remove it as well. Disconnect the tie rod by removing the cotter and castle nut. The tie rod may get stuck by the steering arm. If that’s the case, take two hammers and lay one flat up against this on the steering and hit the other one and it’ll come free.
Disconnect all of the brake line hardware. There are just a few screws. Disconnect the sway bar linkage, then start removing the shock. Pick up on the bottom of the A-arm and pull the bolt so that it will come free. Tie a strap up at the top and hook it onto the shock, then pull it up as high as you can get it.
Next, remove the cotter pin out of the lower ball joint and remove the castle nut. Sometimes the A-arm will pull free from the stud. If not, take a hammer and smack it right here and the A-arm should drop free. Then pick up on the upper A-arm with the knuckle still attached, grab the axle and pull it out of the knuckle, and pull the axle out of the differential. It’s never good to let your axles hang. Then remove the upper nut. Remove the cotter pin then remove the castle nut.
Loosen the hardware on the upper A-arms and remove the nuts and the bolts. Then remove the A-arm and put it on the bench. Then do the same thing for the lowers—remove the hardware. You’ll have to remove this cover right here. Then finish removing the A-arm and take it to the bench so we can change some bushings.
To remove the bushings out of the factory arms, grab the caps and pull them off. The sleeve should push right out. You may have to use a screwdriver to pop the caps off. If you have a bushing or sleeve that’s stuck, take a 15 mm socket and tap it. Take a big flathead screwdriver and slide it down into the A-arm where the bushings are. These bushings come together in the middle, so there’s a little bit of a space and that’s where we’re going to put the screwdriver. Apply a good amount of pressure so we don’t hurt the bushing removing it. Rotate it over and do the same thing.
Grab the SuperATV upper A-arm and slide the bushing in by hand. If it doesn’t go in, tap it in with a hammer. Slide the other bushing in, then slide a sleeve through. Then cap the bushings making sure they’re good and seated. Then do the same thing of the other pivot joint. Now just repeat the same steps for the other factory arm.
Next we have to press out the ball joints. First remove the snap ring. Then take it to the press and remove the ball joint. Find a tube that your ball joint can fit into for the bottom and find something that will sit on the outer ring of the ball joint for the top. Then press it out.
Then press it into your new A-arms. Make sure it’s fully seated, then reinstall the snap ring. You may have to tap the snap ring with the pliers to make sure it’s seated. Inspect it to make sure it’s fully seated.
After you get everything installed on your other A-arms, it’s time to install the new A-arms on the machine. Install the lower A-arm buy getting the nuts started then fully tighten the hardware. Make sure the straight grease zerks are installed on the pivot blocks of the lower A-arms.
Next, it’s time to install the upper A-arm. Tap it into place so the bolts line up. Get both nuts started then fully tighten them. Slide the knuckle onto the upper A-arm like that, and grab the washer and castle nut. Get it started and then tighten it. Make sure the cotter key holes are lined up. Then install the cotter pin and bend it down. Then tie the A-arm up out of the way.
Next get the axle reinstalled in the diff and into the knuckle and let the A-arm drop back down. Grab the shock and line it up and get the nut started. Reinstall the cover over the front differential. Grab the lower A-arms and slide it onto the ball joint stud. Slide the washer on and the castle nut. Fully tighten the castle nut and reinstall the cotter pin. Then fully tighten the shock hardware. Reinstall the tie rod with the washer, castle nut, and cotter pin.
Make sure you grab the shim and slide it into place on the axle then grab the hub and start getting it reinstalled. A lot of times you’ll need to take a socket and set if over the axle, then use a hammer to tap the hub on. Once there are enough threads exposed, slide on the washer and axle nut and fully tighten it to drive the hub on. Then install the cotter pin.
Reinstall the brake caliper, then fully tighten the brake caliper hardware. Take the provided brake line clips and attach the brake lines to the A-arm. Reattach your sway bar link now.
Then repeat all the steps for the opposite side.
And there you have it. That’s how super quick and easy it is to install SuperATV’s High-Clearance A-Arms on this Kawasaki Teryx KRX. For more information these arms, or any of SuperATV’s great products, feel free to give us a call at 855-743-3427, or check us out online at SuperATV.com.
Thanks for watching, and we’ll catch you next time.
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