Length: 16:37
Created: June 29, 2023
What’s up, guys? Today we’re going to be installing these Atlas Pro A-Arms, but before we head to the shop, I wanted to give you a couple quick features. Right off the bat, when you look at these Atlas Pro arms, you can tell these things are straight beef. 38 mm tubing, which is an inch and a half in diameter. Fully adjustable pivot blocks and a wide variety of heavy-duty ball joint options.
Let’s head on over to the shop and get these bad boys installed.
The first thing we’re going to do is remove the wheel and tire.
Now we’re going to remove our cotter pin from the axle, and then the castle nut. Use a 27 mm socket to remove the castle nut. Make sure you remove the washer. We’re going to come to our tie rod end and remove our hardware.
As you can see, this machine has some SuperATV products on it already, so the removal process is going to be just a little bit different between ours and OE. But for the most part, everything’s going to be the same. The only minor differences may be the brake line hardware, and maybe the tie rod hardware, depending on if you have OEM tie rods or SuperATV.
[1:46] What we’re going to do now is remove the tie rod from the knuckle, then remove our hardware. I like to take whatever hardware I may have securing my tie rod and then fasten it right back where it goes.
Then we’ll grab a 10 mm socket to remove this bolt that’s securing our brake line. I like to go ahead and put that bolt right back where it goes.
Next, we’ll remove all of our brake line hardware. Again, our hardware may be just a little bit different than yours. This machine is already equipped with a set of SuperATV A-arms. Once all of our brake line hardware is removed, I like to take my brake caliper and slide it right up on top of the differential. Slide it up and out of the way just like that.
[2:49] Now we’re going to grab a hold of our hub and pull it off. We’ll set that aside. When you pull your hub off, make sure you pull your washer too. It puts pressure on the wheel bearing there.
Now we’re going to come down here to our lower ball joint hardware and remove the cotter pin. Then we’ll remove our castle nut. I don’t remove mine all the way—I just run it down to about here, just like this. We’re going to get two hammers and smack them right here on our arm until it separates.
Once it separates, just remove your castle nut the rest of the way. Pull your lower arm off and let it hang, that makes it nice and easy.
[3:45] Now we’re going to remove our sway bar link hardware. Slide our link out of our arm. We’ll take our nut and put it right back onto our sway bar link. Then we’re going to grab the strap, hook it up as high as we can, and lift up on the arm here. Remove the shock bolt just like that. What I like to do is stick my shock hardware right back into my shock, so I know exactly where it goes. Then tie the shock up out of the way, as high as we can get it.
Next, we’ll lift up on our arm so we can get our axle removed. Once our axle’s removed, I like to lay it on the tie rod. You never want to let an axle hang. This also gives us a really good spot to get in there to get to our upper ball joint hardware.
[4:55] We’ll go ahead and remove our cotter pin. Then we’re going to grab our socket. I like to let our steering arm bury itself out onto the A-arm. Crack that loose, run it down, then we’re going to smack it right here.
As you can see, it separated. What we’re going to do is remove the castle nut, then get it right back on. Now we’re going to remove all of our A-arm hardware.
I’m going to remove this plastic actuator cover here. It just makes it so much easier to get on the head of the bolt. I like to use an impact to get on here and buzz the hardware out. If you don’t remove this actuator cover you’re going to be stuck using a wrench or a short socket.
[5:59] Once our nuts are removed, let’s go ahead and remove our hardware. Then remove our upper A-arm hardware. I’m going to crack the hardware loose and then use my electric ratchet to speed it up a little bit.
Once our nut’s removed, we can go ahead and remove the bolts. Once those bolts are removed, you can remove your upper arm.
Now that we have our arms removed from the machine, we’re going to remove the bushings out of our arms. I like to take an extension and slide it into the sleeve. Tap it right out. Then I like to grab a big flathead screwdriver and angle it in sideways. What I’m going to do is tap down until I can get this bushing to come out.
[7:20] Now we’re ready to start prepping our Atlas Pro A-arms for installation. You can reuse your OEM bushings with the SuperATV A-arms. I highly advise that you go ahead and just buy a bushing kit from SuperATV. It’s well worth it.
We’re going to take our bushings and slide them into the arms here. It’ll be kind of a tight fit, so I like to take a dead blow and tap them right in. Do this on both sides of the arm. I’m going to grab one of the sleeves and slide it right in.
We can get this arm out of the way, set it aside, or you can go ahead and mount it. It’s totally up to you.
I’m going to grab our upper arm and do the same exact process.
Now we’re going to grab our grease zerks and I’m going to thread them into our A-arms. This one is for the lower here. I’m going to thread it right in, get it started, and then fully tighten it.
[9:49] One more thing that’s great about the SuperATV Atlas Pro A-arm is that it’s fully adjustable. Here on the upper arm, this is what we call a pivot block. This is where you’re going to adjust your camber. So if you go to install these arms and get it set down in the machine—so your tires are leaning out, it’s positive, or they’re leaning in, it’s negative—you can make adjustments on these arms in order to correct that.
For every complete 360-degree rotation of this pivot block, that’s going to equal one degree. For example, if your tire is laid in two degrees or three degrees negative and you want it to be zero: if it’s two degrees, you would do four complete rotations, and if it’s one degree, you do two complete rotations. That will bring the tire from this point to this point, sitting straight up and down.
It’s very easy—all you have to do is loosen these jam nuts and then thread these out. The most important thing is to make sure they’re equal from side to side. If you make two rotations here, you have to make two rotations here.
[10:51] Now we’re going to grab our lower A-arm and install it to the machine. Grab our hardware, then we’ll go ahead and start our nuts. Grab the A-arm hardware and get those nuts started too.
Now we’re going to grab our knuckle and slide it onto our upper ball joint. Slide it onto the upper ball joint just like that, then we’ll fully tighten our hardware.
This is about the best way to tighten up this ball joint when it has a Nylock nut. Otherwise, if you try to just put an equal amount of torque on it, like with a wrench or socket, you’ll end up just spinning the stud. Also, you probably saw me grab hold and pull straight up on it. What that’s doing is putting a side load on that stud so it’ll grab enough to where we can run it up with an impact.
[12:30] Now we’re going to put our cotter pin in, pull straight up, grab our axle, and slide it back through our wheel bearing. At this point we can cut our shock loose and let it drop down, then get it reinstalled into the A-arm as well.
Here’s another product you can upgrade from SuperATV—this lower ball joint. As you can see, we have a SuperATV upper ball joint. You can order these arms with a pre-installed upper, and the kit will come with a lower that you just press into your knuckle.
Now we’re going to fully tighten our lower castle nut. Make sure you don’t forget your bearing washer. We’ll go ahead and put that on there, then grab the hub and slide it into position. Then we’ll grab our brake caliper and reposition it. I’m going to fully tighten the brake caliper hardware.
[14:42] Right here, we’re going to utilize the factory brake line clip. We’re going to utilize the brake line hardware that comes in the kit. Line it up then get it good and started. Put our hardware through.
Now we’re going to attach our sway bar link. Put our axle nut washer on, then the axle nut. Fully tighten it. Once our axle nut is tight, we’ll reinstall our cotter key. Now we’re going to reinstall our tie rod just like so. I’ll grab our 19 mm and we’ll fully tighten our tie rod hardware.
Once everything is fully tightened, you can go ahead and reinstall your wheel and tire.
Now you’re going to repeat these same steps on the opposite side. Make sure your hardware is fully tightened, and that’s all there is to installing SuperATV’s Atlas Pro High-Clearance Forward Offset A-Arms on this Kawasaki KRX 1000.
Check us out online to pick yours up today. Thanks for watching and we’ll catch you on the next one.
