How to Install SuperATV’s MaxDrive Powered Flip Windshield for the Polaris Ranger XP 1000

What’s up guys? Today we’re going to show you how to install SuperATV’s MaxDrive Power Flip Windshield on a Polaris Ranger XP 1000. Let’s get right to it!

Getting Started

First, you’ll remove all the contents from the packaging. Then take the windshield and lay it across the front of the machine to visually confirm that it will fit. After that, you can take the protective film off the windshield.

Now you’ll apply the bulb seal. The bulb portion of the seal should face inside, towards the cab. The black frame is screen printed on the inside of the windshield, so the bulb should face that direction.

Start at the top left corner of the windshield and run the seal all the way around over the bottom of the windshield and down the right side. Pay attention to both corners and make sure the seal is on securely.

Cut off the excess when you get to the top right side of the windshield. The top of the windshield should not have any bulb seal on it.

Install the Brackets & Gaskets

Now you’ll install the bracket to the lower portion of the windshield with the included hardware. Insert the middle bolt first and finger-tighten the nuts, then do the same to the bolts closest to the corners.

Once you’ve done those 3, you can go back and add the remaining hardware to the pre-drilled holes.

Repeat the same steps for the upper bracket.

Once all hardware is installed and finger-tightened, use a drill and a wrench to fully tighten the hardware.

Next, you’ll install the female-hinges onto the outside of the windshield. Make sure the open end is facing out. Finger-tighten the hardware for now. Repeat these steps for the opposite side.

Now you will install the actuator brackets. Make sure the lip of the bracket is facing towards the inside and the tabs are facing towards the bottom of the windshield. Install the bracket on the opposite side the same way.

Once the hinges and actuator brackets are all in place, fully tighten the hardware.

Next, if you have a roof installed, remove the front hardware to gain access to the factory mounting holes.

Now take the gasket from the kit and apply it to the top edge of the cage. Once you’re reached the opposite side of the cage, cut off the excess.

Go back over the gasket to make sure it’s seated well against the cage.

Install the Windshield

Now you’re ready to install the windshield.

Lay the windshield across the front of the machine.

Take the male side of the hinge and slide it into the female side. Slide the windshield up and align the holes in the cage with the holes in the male portion of the hinge.

Now slide an M8 bolt with a flat washer through the male portion of the hinge. Use a nyloc nut and thread it onto the hardware loosely. Repeat these steps for the opposite side.

Make sure the hinges are a straight as possible and that you have a roughly equal gap on both sides of the windshield. When you have them straight, fully tighten the female portion of the hinge. Do this on both sides.

Next, find the cage clamps and brackets. Take one cage clamp and one bracket and align the bracket with the cage clamp. Using an M8 allen-headed bolt with a flat washer, attach the bracket to the clamp. Finger tighten the bolt for now.

Repeat the same steps for the other bracket and clamp.

Remove the hardware from the clamp on the opposite side from where you just installed the bracket. The outer half of the clamp will drop off.

Now you can install the clamp to the machine. The side with the hardware still installed should face inward, toward the cab. Gently tighten it to your machine’s frame. Do this with both sets of clamps. It should still be loose enough where you can slide it up and down, but it won’t fall off.

Next, find a shouldered allen bolt and slide a flat washer up to the head. You’ll also need two of the white bushings. The bushings slide into the end of the actuator. You will also need a nyloc nut. You’ll use the same hardware for the opposite side, so go ahead and find those now.

Slide the bushing into the actuator on both sides. With the bushings installed, slide the end of the actuator into the bracket you installed previously. You may need to loosen the hardware to make it easier.

Take the shoulder bolt and slide it through the bracket and the actuator. Add the nyloc nut to the opposite side of the bolt and finger-tighten it. Retighten any hardware you loosened before as well.

Now you’ll adjust lower part of the actuator until it aligns with the bracket built into the windshield. Make sure you pull the windshield all the way in, as far is it will go.

Once you’ve confirmed the alignment, slide your bushings through the opening on both sides. Realign it with the bracket on the windshield, then slide it through the bracket and the bushings. Secure it with a nyloc nut, but don’t fully tighten anything.

Now you’ll repeat the same steps for the actuator on the opposite side.

The windshield will bow out a little bit at this stage because of all the seals. However, once the actuators are installed, they’ll pull the windshield in for a tight fit.

Once both sides are connected, push up on the clamps to make sure you’re getting a good, tight seal on both sides. Then you can fully tighten all hardware.

Prepare the Wiring

Come to the center of the dash where the cup holders are. Remove the two push pins securing the cup holder then remove it completely.

Feed the harness in, tie the mechanic’s wire to it, and pull it all the way through on the passenger side of the machine. Once you’ve got the plug out, connect it to the plug on the actuator and remove the mechanic’s wire. Then feed it back into the opening in the dash so there’s no excess wire.

Repeat the same steps for the opposite actuator.

Now you need the base section of the harness. You’ll have a red hot and a black ground wire, and a wire that goes to the fuse. There’s a grommet directly behind where the cup holder sat. Take the wiring and feed it directly through the rubber grommet.

Once you have a fair amount fed through, you’ll go to the outside of the machine, lift the hood, and pull the wires through.

Under the Hood

After you’ve pulled the wires through, you can cut the eyelets off. Connect the red wire on the harness to the orange wire on the pulse plug. The brown wire will go to the black wire.

Use a wire stripper to remove a bit of the insulation around both wires. The wire is a fairly thin gauge and we’re using a pink connector. Spin the wire into the connector so you know you won’t bunch up any of the wires.

Using the crimps, get one good crimp in the center, towards the end of the red wire. Take the orange wire and feed it into the opposite end of the connector. Spin it around to ensure you’re getting a good connection. Then crimp it again at the same angle you crimped it the first time towards the end of the orange wire.

After you crimp it, pull on the wire on both sides and make sure it’s not pulling out. If you notice any movement, go ahead and crimp the wires again. Once that’s done, this is a heat-shrink style connector, so we’ll use a heat gun to shrink it down.

Repeat these steps for the brown and black wires.

Insert the pulse plug into the pulse bar, then you’ll mount the fuse. You can use a self-tapper to mount it to the firewall. Alternatively, you could leave it unattached.

Organize your wires and make sure they aren’t tangled up with anything else, then close the hood and head inside the machine.

Get the Switch Ready

Find the plug that’s on the inside of the harness and feed it through the back of one of the rocker switch locations built into the dash. You may have to cut yours out. If you do, just cut along the template and remove the plastic rectangle covering the opening.

Slide the plug all the way through the hole and attach the rocker switch. Line the back of the rocker switch up with the plug and press firmly to attach it. Turn the key to the on position and test the switch to make sure it works. You should be able to see and hear the windshield moving.

Align the rocker switch with the hole and feed the wires back through and snap the rocker switch into place.

Take the excess wiring from under the dash and feed it through until there’s no slack, then secure it with zip ties. You don’t want excess wiring flopping around under the dash. We suggest that you wrap them together, secure them with a zip tie, then secure the bundle with another zip tie under the dash.

Clean Up Your Wiring

Now take a zip tie from the kit, slide it through the small hole on the cage, and wrap it around the wiring for the windshield. When you tighten it, don’t cinch it down all the way. You need a little slack so the wire can move along with the windshield if needed. Don’t forget to cut off the tail of the zip tie as well. Use as many zip ties as you like to secure the wire how you see fit.

Next you’ll reinstall the cup holder utilizing the push pins you previously removed. Reinsert them into their original locations.

Test ‘er Out

To open the windshield, you’ll press up or “open.” You can stop at any point and the windshield will hold that position automatically. It does take 12.71 seconds for the windshield to fully open from a closed position. If you want to close the windshield, you just press down on the rocker switch.

And that’s all there is to it to install SuperATV’s MaxDrive Powered Flip Windshield for the Polaris Ranger XP 1000. Make sure you check out our other awesome upgrades and accessories for the Ranger XP 1000 and we’ll see you next time.