Date: April 18, 2022
[0:01] What’s up, guys? Today we will install the SuperATV RackBoss 2.0 on this Polaris RZR XP 1000. Let’s get right to it.
[0:32] The first thing we’re going to do is remove our front wheels and tires.
[1:14] Our machine is equipped with a SuperATV Black Ops Winch. If your machine’s equipped with a winch, you don’t necessarily have to remove it, but we’ll remove ours for video purposes. So now we’re going to go ahead and remove our tie rods from our knuckle. Repeat that same step to the opposite side.
Now we’re going to remove our hardware, connecting our steering shaft to the pinion shaft on our rack and pinion. Our machine has a 15 mm bolt head and a 17 mm nut. Once you’ve removed your nut, go ahead and remove the bolt. So our bolt’s stuck. We’ll take a punch and a hammer and tap the bolt out.
Now we’re going to split where the steering shaft comes together here. I like to take a flat screwdriver and a hammer and just kind of tap it in there a little bit to spread it. That will help it come off the splines on the rack and pinion. As you can see, now it’s moving up and down, but it’s not going to completely come off yet until we start to remove our rack and pinion.
[3:11] Now, we’re going to remove all the nuts and secure the rack and pinion to the machine’s frame.
[3:56] So now that we have all of our nuts removed from our studs on our rack and pinion, we can take a pry bar and pry the rack and pinion away from the frame. So we got the rack out. As I told you all, it’s a little struggle to get it out. We had a pry bar working it back and forth, ensuring that our studs weren’t getting into our pinion seal or anything. But if you work it back and forth enough, it will come out.
[4:36] Now that we’ve removed our rack from the machine, we went ahead and unboxed the RackBoss 2.0 Heavy Duty Rack and Pinion. Right off the bat, you’ll notice that this rack and pinion are already centered. So when you get this from SuperATV, you will see that you have a paint mark indicating that the shaft is centered on the rack.
That means everything’s good to go. Another thing that you’re going to notice is that it’s greaseable. This is a greaser gear. It’s already pre-greased whenever you receive it, but later on, down the road, you have to put your grease gun there, pop it full of grease, and you’re good to go.
Also, you’re going to notice that you have a hardware kit. These three long bolts will go through the actual rack body itself—something like that. And then the shorter bolts will go through over here.
[5:27] Now we’ve confirmed it’s centered, our boots are on, and everything’s ready to go. We’ll take this rack, get it in the machine, and start some hardware. So before we install our rack and pinion, you want to make sure that your steering wheel is straight, and you’re going to make sure it’s straight whenever you attach your steering shaft to the pinion on the rack and pinion.
Due to the RackBoss 2.0 being larger and stronger, you will have to remove the bolts on your front differential. Slide your front differential forward, potentially disconnect the prop shaft, and slide it out of the way to install the new rack and pinion.
[5:59] Now that we’ve removed our hardware for our front differential and scooted it as far forward as we could, and removed the prop shaft, we’re ready to get the rack and pinion installed on the machine.
[6:25] So now that we have our rack and pinion slid into place, we want to make sure that we have our steering wheel straight once again. So we’re going to double check that real quick. Our steering wheel is straight.
So now we’re going to attach the steering shaft to the pinion on the rack and pinion. So once you have your rack and pinion in place, your steering shaft is on, and your steering wheel is straight, your rack is still centered. Once you’ve confirmed all that, you can take one of the bolts we previously showed you out of the hardware kit.
Slide it through the rack, pinion, and then the machine’s frame. And we’re just going to start a nut. We’re not going to tighten anything just yet fully. Once you have one of your bolts started, go ahead and go through and start all of your hardware.
[8:05] Once you have all your hardware started, you can go ahead and fully tighten all your hardware. So now we’re going to line our groove on our pinion shaft up with the steering shaft and install our pinch bolt. Now we’re going to install our nut. Then we’re going to tighten our pinch bolt fully.
[9:10] So now that all our hardware is tight for our rack and pinion and our steering shaft to the rack and pinion, we’re going to grab our SuperATV Tie Rods. And we decided to go with the billet. If you’re installing the steel, it’s the same installation procedure. Just take the tie rod and thread it onto the threads of the inner ball and socket or the inner tie rod.
So I like to go ahead and thread my tie rod about three-quarters of the way up the threads. Once we’ve got that, we’ll grab our tie rod end, and this will be the lefthand thread. So you’re going to thread it in just like this. And again, do about three-quarters. You want them adjusted evenly—something like that. Then you want to confirm that your steering wheel is straight and your rack and pinion are centered, which ours is.
Next, we’re going to grab our tapered stud hardware. So we’re going to take our tapered stud and put it in our knuckle where our factory tie rod was installed. We’ll take a nut and start it on the bottom. We’ll get it good and start.
Then we’re going to adjust our tie rod to where it lines up with our tapered stud with the wheel being straight, and then try to get your rotor as straight as possible. I like to just kind of eyeball it. We will have to set the toe to ensure it’s somewhat straight, but that’ll make it easier.
You’re going to take your misalignment bushing and drop it on. Put your nut on. Then you’ll put a 19 mm wrench on the top and the 19 mm socket on the bottom. You can use a ratchet, but I found it’s much easier to use an impact. Get it good and tight on the bottom. Take your impact, and come to the top. Make sure it’s good and tight. Then we’re going to grab a cotter pin for the top. Slide it through. Fold it around like this—same thing on the bottom. Now repeat the same steps for the opposite side.
[12:27] Now that you have your rack and pinion tight, your tie rods installed, your tapered studs, everything’s tight, what you need to do now is go ahead and reinstall any hardware you’ve removed or any components that you’ve removed, and then reinstall the tires. We’ll sit it down on the ground and set the toe.
[12:42] So now we’ve got all our components reinstalled, everything’s fully tightened, got the wheels and tires back on the machine, and sat on the ground. We have Cory here helping us today. We’re going to be setting the toe. But before we can set the toe, we need to make sure that the suspension is settled on the machine.
We’re going to roll it back and forth about five times. Last one. So now that we’ve rolled it out, I’m going to push down on the suspension a little bit and then make sure that our wheel is straight. So now that our wheel’s straight, what we’re going to do is we’re going to measure from the centerline of this tire to the centerline on that tire.
It looks like we’re right at 1540 (mm). Now we’re going to do the same thing on the back side of the tire. Whenever you’re doing this, you want to make sure that you’re not making contact with the skid plate or anything of that nature that could throw your measurement off. So it looks like we’re about 20 mm off from zero. We’re wider in the front than we are in the rear.
So that means that we are toed out. Typically whenever I set the toe on a machine, I like to get it to where it’s five millimeters toed in or zero. It’s totally up to you. The closer to zero, the better–the more true the machine will drive. So now [what] we’re going to do grab our tie rod.
And this is another awesome feature about SuperATV’s Tie Rods is that they are double adjustable. So we make sure that our jam nuts are loose and run back. We are going to spin it a couple of times here. And we’ll do that same step on the opposite side. We’ll re-measure until we have it set to zero or, like I said, whatever you prefer–5 mil toed-in, 10 mil toed-in–totally up to you.
[15:01] That’s all there is to install SuperATV’s RackBoss 2.0 Rack and Pinion on this Polaris RZR XP 1000. Be sure to check the description below for a link to pick yours up today. And while you’re there, drop a like comment and subscribe. Thanks for watching, and we’ll catch you on the next one.